dopey

Looks like it. "lol" A hard top is better. Just get one 12(15). The new Mach5...or possibly a BTL.

If it's a soft top...I would get the Machaudio 12. Cheap and loud.... ....though nothing will "get loud" in a jeep. Spend your money on mids and highs.

I can only give general advice on HU's...not much experience with the latest/greatest. Kenwood, Alpine, Panasonic, Clarion, and Eclipse, are generally regarded as the best performers without getting all crazy on Nakimichi or Denon. EDIT: I knew I was forgetting one......Pioneer. Loved the sound of the ones I've heard. JVC imVho is the best "cheap" brand...Your dollar will go further with JVC, though they do have some outstanding stuff. Sony is ok...not good, but ok...Sony has some interesting features...I explain more below. Internal amp power is not truthful...50x4 will NEVER happen *cleanly*. Don't even pay attention to this spec. You should be more concerned with "pre-outs". You want 3 sets, with at least 2v/ea. Internal crossovers/EQ's/and other sound enhancements allow you to more acurately "shape" your sound, but they are expensive. If you want all the bells and whistles, a HU from a year or two ago should be 75%-50% of new MSRP. Of course, this varies with original MSRP, and availability. You do NOT need the latest/greatest "EQ+S.U.B.systemQ" BS on a deck to make it great. Stick with the mentioned brands and EVERY HU will sound great. If you download a lot of music, MP3 playback is probably something you want to look into. Along the same lines, a large number of Sony decks have USB ports on the front. Many offerings from other brands have USB's on the back. You'll also need an adapter to hook it up to your car, until you get another amp for the front speakers. It's only $20, so that's not a big deal... You don't have the Mach audio system do you? If you do, you may want to buy all of the components you can, then install them at once, because you can't just changeout the factory HU...well you CAN, but it's a ROYAL PITA. Much easier to wait until you've accumulated the pieces, and do all the work at once. So if you have the Mach system, just add an amp and subs, if not throw a new HU in there too. g/l

If you can fit 2 12" ported, then do that. One 12" SSD has more Sd, and Xmax than 2 of those 8's. So based on that alone, I would choose 2x12's over 4x8's. Save your cash and when you get the subs and amp, get a new HU at the same time. I started with a JVC, and while the "sq nazi's" may frown on it, it IS a lot better than stock...and if you get 3 rca outs, it will make the install (and future installs) MUCH easier. g/l

Where I'm from, system means anything from a pair of rear 6x9's to a complete overhaul of the vehicle. System was more than one component that wasn't originally on the car. Typically, it was used meaning a pair of subs and an amp. Where you are from sucks. I lol'd x2 sorry but that was hilarious So let me get this straight... M5 says something stupid (subs and stock crap are not a "system"), I correct him nicely, he says something mean to me, and now there's a lol circlejerk? WTF? I suspect you guys aren't getting your recommended daily allowance of CA.com....go be dicks there. When mods are being dicks...users leave then please do leave If a mod wants me gone....they have the power to make it so.

Where I'm from, system means anything from a pair of rear 6x9's to a complete overhaul of the vehicle. System was more than one component that wasn't originally on the car. Typically, it was used meaning a pair of subs and an amp. Where you are from sucks. I lol'd x2 sorry but that was hilarious So let me get this straight... M5 says something stupid (subs and stock crap are not a "system"), I correct him nicely, he says something mean to me, and now there's a lol circlejerk? WTF? I suspect you guys aren't getting your recommended daily allowance of CA.com....go be dicks there. When mods are being dicks...users leave then please do leave Gladly. I've had more trouble with M5 on another board...we've known each other for quite some time. Don't know what I've done to piss him off, but I really don't care. If mods want me gone, I'm gone. It's a shame he has to be an ass on EVERY board he goes to, because he's on quite a few. Anyone want to buy a BTL and some Sundowns? I think I'm going DD.

And debating the correct usage of "system" isn't helpful to anyone.......just as M5's comment about the place I was born and raised, isn't helpful to anyone but himself. Aaron, you've missed my point entirely. The longer I stay here, the more frustrated I get with the "help". If I wanted to be made fun of, I'd go to CA.com. If you want, I can send you 20 posts by M5 (not directed at me) where comments he's made serve only to frustrate, confuse, and annoy your paying customers. If you don't care, I don't care. I think I hear ROE calling my name. /me in this thread

2nd. I have a 02 Passat with the 1.8t and my other car is a BMW 330Ci with the 3.0 inline 6. And if you've driven the new M5 or M6...you'll KNOW that is a big stonking motor. I love all of these engines. Although, I would have them ranked S85(M5&M6, 05-current)> S54B32(M3, 01-05) > 1.8t The 3.6L flat six from Porsche 997, Nissan's RB26DETT from the Skyline GT-R, and Chevy's new LS7 should be mentioned as well.

Good tat's huh? Pretty "cool". I laughed so hard when I first saw that guy. He's from Mainz Germany.

Dry ice is pretty inexpensive...you could fill a cooler with crushed dry ice and in-between runs set the motor on that. If you have any doctor friends, you could see about getting some liquid Nitrogen. I bet a bath of compressed CO2 and liquid N would get a motor cold quick. Both of these options would be better than a freezer due to CO2 and N being "dry". There is probably a longevity issue will cooling the motor below dew point, and then letting air come in contact with it. Condensation in the gap, can't be beneficial. It can rust the plates, and no telling what it would do to the inside of the gap or former.

Where I'm from, system means anything from a pair of rear 6x9's to a complete overhaul of the vehicle. System was more than one component that wasn't originally on the car. Typically, it was used meaning a pair of subs and an amp. Where you are from sucks. I lol'd x2 sorry but that was hilarious So let me get this straight... M5 says something stupid (subs and stock crap are not a "system"), I correct him nicely, he says something mean to me, and now there's a lol circlejerk? WTF? I suspect you guys aren't getting your recommended daily allowance of CA.com....go be dicks there. When mods are being dicks...users leave

A pair of 8's MAY get as loud as one 12. If it were me, I'd figure out how much space you can work with, and get one driver. Either an SSD or maybe a Q with no options. The 12 will go deeper(louder) than the 8's. Either way, bass will be fine. Then you HAVE to start saving for the front stage.

Where I'm from, system means anything from a pair of rear 6x9's to a complete overhaul of the vehicle. System was more than one component that wasn't originally on the car. Typically, it was used meaning a pair of subs and an amp. Where you are from sucks. No disagreement there. Do a search on this board for "system" and see how many component sets and mids and highs returns you get. I'm not saying I'm right...I'm saying YOU'RE WRONG.

well thanks. and it's a dbm-2 meter from spl meter.com. Ive heard it is 4 db off of a tl and iv'e also heard it was .3 db off, i guess some are calibrated better. then 148ish

Where I'm from, system means anything from a pair of rear 6x9's to a complete overhaul of the vehicle. System was more than one component that wasn't originally on the car. Typically, it was used meaning a pair of subs and an amp.

If using an outboard EQ and a seperate outboard crossover, which should come first in the signal path? The EQ or the X-over?

It would have the effect of lowering the tuning freq. Not sure how much. Too cold and stuff gets stiff and brittle.

Full cooling, hi X-max, 3rd slug. Necessary Universal coil......Do you think you may face a situation where your current amp will no longer suffice, and your new amp will not work at the same ohm load? If yes, the universal coil might be for you. SPL is tighter tolerances, which cause noise when played with "music".

Termlab or audiocontrol?

...but it's not the hot ticket for ground-pounding... Why don't we ask what the OP wants to accomplish.

<144

Oh yeah....duh.

I have some more of a pink/yellow moth...and flowers.

See if you have a menu option for "degauss". This will attempt to degauss or demagnetize the screen.