dopey

I understand your reply...but will those 2 15's have the good sound quality that one of those other subs would give me? If you're looking for SQ, then perhaps one Q15...ported. If you want SPL, one BL 15ported(if you're short on space)...or 2 maw 15's sealed (if your short on cash)

Two 15's vs one 15 anyday.

"Slot-Port Tuned @ 32Hz for MAXIMUM "LSQ"!" HAHAHA Yeah...its ok. Not great, but ok.

isht looks fine. Monday evening you can bump loud...don't worry, just drink a 40 for me. Your ishts fine...you caught it before you did any real damage.

And those are BOTH a big defference from ARKANSAS...AR.

First of all, you forgot to convert the xmax into cm so the total displacements are actually 4939.2 cm^3 and 6804 cm^3. Secondly, that difference in displacement is only at each driver's xmax. Under conditions where the drivings are moving far below the xmax, the displacements could be fairly similar, or even weighted to the Mach5s. And if you're running ported and doing SPL comps, volumetric displacement really doesn't mean much. Youre right. But I'd still go with the Fi's...

Neither of those things are indicative of the word "quality". S-Q-L is a compromise, plain and simple, in the context it's used in. Having an overpowering substage is totally different than having a front stage that has earsplitting dynamics, yet stays true to the recording. Quality has several definitions. It can mean a specific attribute...or...it can mean superiority. I tend to think of something having SEVERAL qualities...one of which may pertain to sound being "grainy", "complex", or "disorienting".....but that doesn't mean they sound GOOD. Thats what I'm talking about. SQL=LSQ IFAIK...or care.

if it stops making sound....that was too much. seriously, just turn it down till you get it rewired.

Nice...

Bigger alt is where Id start.

Yep, Fay-town balla....thats me.

It was el84 based cathode biased. Pushpull with another EL84 as the Phase inverter (Actually, an ECC99, but very similar) Torroid. From Tor-Tran...a company my father does business with. It sounded like azz. lol I think it was the torroidial output. I built it with a friend, an EE. I alone do not have the knowledge that he, or you, do. But I know enough to be dangerous (as they say). ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ "The Merlin amps are open ended strap able amplifiers we refer to as Class DE. They do the full signal swing, thus in situation of not having enough current. They are less efficient and not as stable a circuit." Class D is "Pulse" width modulated...it may produce a full wave at output, but the output section doesn't amplify the full signal. It amplifies a PART of the full signal. Thus, it does not "do the full signal swing" as you stated earlier. NVM. I don't REALLY care enough...I just know that you were describing aspects of Class A amps like the TU series and those structures...ie....Single ended(as commonly known) dont equate to Class D. That is all.

Arkansas. I am assuming he means Hot Springs AR.

jebus is crying because you should always use the same size wire for power and ground. You should use larger wire then you need. Your amps is NOT putting out 2000w. New wiring is going to help, but you still wont get 2000 clean watts. You are probably better off having a shop wire your stuff. That's funny, I don't think I've ever said that before. If you ever swing up by Fayetteville, give me a holla.

Mj18 12mm xmax x 1,029 cm^2 = 12,348 cm^3 displacement x 4 subs = 49,392cm^3 total displacement SSD 21mm xmax x 810 cm^2 = 17,010 cm^3 displacement x 4 subs = 68,040cm^3 total displacement The 15" SSD's have a displacement advantage over the 18" Mj's! But they take more power...so you could get them stock, or see if you could get them with one fewer spider (for decreased power handling). If you wired the subs to 1ohm, you would have enough power to get them moving.

I'm not sure you NEED the fuse between the amp and the battery in back. But you can have those fuses, and it's probably a good thing.

I have a big A/B sub amp that has 2 fans in it. It's noisy as hell and is really irratating on softer passages. I will never own another car amplifier with fans. Efficiency FTW!

I have a 15" BTL on a 1500d and I hit a 147.4. With stock electrical system. @2ohm! Run a dual1 @ .5ohm and I'm sure it'll wang harder.....lots harder! I vote BTL

"Sound Quality Loud" and "Loud Sound Quality" are the same thing. And they're both ghey because they don't say what kind of sound quality you're after. chitty sound quality, harsh sound quality, grainy sound quality..... SQL=LSQ And to the OP, I'd pick the BTL, but they will both get loud. I've never heard a 95series, but I've heard the BTL sounds better.

"@@Yes, I can. The more concise term would be single ended instead of open ended. My bad. Moreover, Class A states that a signal is conducted continuously. No breaks, like in our Higher end AX tube amplifier. Our 2007 Merlin amplifiers, are still switching amplifiers, doing the full signal-- in sections. The class-d, using a 4080 chip has bridged outputs. One channel switching and doing only have the wave while the other is also switching and doing the other half of the wave. " Doing the full signal swing...in sections...is NOT doing the full 360* signal. That verbage is misleading imho. I appreciate your input, but in my opinion you haven't solidified your case any. I'd love for one of the tech team to chime in here. RIckRolled...others? If you want me to take this PM's...

Youve got mail.

Order a Q with fewer spiders. That will get it louder with less power.

100%

so turn down the gain untill i get a capacitor or what do i need to do? You need a battery and a better amp that puts out more power. A High Output alternator is a GREAT place to start too. More expensive...but worth its weight in gold. DO NOT buy a capacitor. Do not listen to ANYONE that tells you they are good to have. Those people are lying to you. For the same cost, you could get a battery from walmart that will be 10,000 times more beneficial to your system. In the mean time. Turn the gain down, and don't bump so hard. You are possibly doing permenant damage to your sub.

That's cool. I couldnt rebasket and recone it for less than a new one in that case. I appreciate the consideration though. Thanks. If you change your mind, holla back.