dopey

Ok. If you just have the one fuse in the front...and you ground out in the middle...the front fuse pops cutting power from the front battery, but since there is no fuse in the back, the back battery will still power a meltdown. Fuse every battery positive wire, if the wire is covering any real distance.

Copied mostly directly from Jl audio.

Neither are a lot of other drivers that have done well in the lanes BTL's are a great design for some people, but they flat out don't work for others. I'm just saying that if you're gonna talk about SPL subs and RE, XXX isn't the place to start. Do you mean some people don't like them because they don't cost enough? Or is there another reason some people don't like them?

It would require a specially tooled extra height heatsink, but there is no reason why it couldn't be done. than market it as a bridgeable sundown saz-6000d. LOL that would be one killer amp in the lanes for street competitors limited to one battery and car off. A pair of saz-6000d's (note that this is not representitive of an actual sundown product, more of a wish). Jake, Could this be made to be strappable?

A XXX isn't an SPL sub. A BTL is about top of the heap for powerhandling, durability, and SPL potential.

Yes. Just one run to the amp should be plenty. ...I would fuse each run within 18" of the battery. Meaning you fuse the front end...AND the back end. So each cable has 2 fuses.

Jeebus christ where in the world did you find 3/4" thick walled pvc ? Never seen it that thick before. Could always cut a hole just big enough for the pvc to fit in a piece of scrap wood. Then just lay your hand saw flat against the board and get to cutting. Pvc is pretty easy to cut. I have a gigantor pipe cutter I bought at a yard sale eons ago that I use. Use rope. Thin strong organic rope. Hemp works well. Take a length approx 2x the circumference, and tie the ends to the center of something to make a handle at the ends. Wrap the string around the PVC, grab the handles, and start sawing. When the PVC heats up under friction it will cut VERY easily...the trick is going hard and fast enough to heat the PVC. I have made lotsa stuff outta PVC, string is how I ALWAYS cut it.

You should always use the proper tool for the job. If you're cutting a square tube, you should use a square saw.

You should be able to hit 150 with a 15" or larger btl. I'd just run all 5000w to one sub, instead of two. Unless you don't want a backseat...

I believe another Hawaiian is selling a pair of SSD's..which would be what I would recommend with 1000w. My 12" SSD doesn't get moving till ~1000 and it's rated for 800wRMS, so I would think that the Q's would want more than 1000w too. *Fi = underrated*

PM NMDstang or Ficaraudio. IIRC the cone assembly is over $100 and a basket is under $50.

In the process of designing a box for the 15 Loaded BTL. Can I design an "L" slot port box to have a tuning freq of approx 40hz for comps...and then just put 1.5" thich MDF along one side of the port? Since calc's tell me that will bring me down to 32hz. So the port will be approx 6.5 inches wide for a 40hz tune and 5 inches wide for a 32hz. I'm just wondering because only the last 14inches or so will be 5 inches...the other 14ish inches (inside the box) will still be 6.5 inches. Will this screw with tuning...and will this raise or lower my ACTUAL tuning freq?

LB...Have you ever run Fi subs?

Trimming the wire will not hurt anything. Don't trim a 1/0 to 4ga or anything drastic like that...but if you have 1/0 inputs and your 1/0 cable wont fit, it's perfectly fine to trim it a bit.

I listen to too much rap for that. 31hz is as high a tune as I can stand for daily.

What ga will the amps input terminals accept...a pretty easy way of saying what the amp needs.

1/0 would be better. Since you won't tell us the amp manufacturer, I'm assuming the low end of that range will be max true power. 4ga will work....1/0 will be better...if you ever upgrade amps, 4ga won't be enough.

How much power? What kinda electrical upgrades?

Ouch, I know man, please don't beat me up over it. JK. I know dumb move, as soon as it sold, I went, "Oh MY WHAT HAVE YOU DONE!!! NOOOOOO!!!!!!" But I just called TC Sounds and the TC-3000 and 2000 12's are in stock right now. I am half tempted to try one. Someone talk me out of it!!! Why shouldn't I try one?? Because you want a Q!!! Get a Q, and be happy.

The SSD takes less power than the BL... But the BL is more efficient than the SSD... I'd say BL. But I have ZERO BL experience.

hahaha

What kinda car? I have a midsize stationwagon, one BTL 15, one saz1500D, on a stock electrical system, and hit 147.4 dash.

I have a 12" SSD with 1000ish sealed, and it's VERY loud at 30hz, and not loud at all by 45hz...and it rolls off from there. I will go ported and see what that's like.

Welcome!!!

He's cheap...and persistant!