Alan Palmer

"the loud part". lawl.

yep. shes pretty hot.

shiz.. i've seen a wall with 4 15"s on 8k barely do a weak hairtrick.. theres so many factors to it, theres no saying.. fyi, that wall was mine. although in my defense, that was without trim panels, with a broken box (back wall snapped and flapping), and about half to 3/4 gain.

single beefy 18" capable of handling 2-2.5k in the right box would be more than enough to satisfy your craving for loudness. btl is certainly a good choice, and so is a death penalty.

flux pavillion- meathead Excision & Datsik-A Millie(Remix) example-kickstarts (bar 9 remix) (MY ABSOLUTE FAVORITE) caspa and rusko- louder (higher tuned, serious, drawn out sustained note) bar 9- midnight (GREAT demo song, builds slow, then hammers) those are my favorites.

could agree on searching. pretty much every question has been asked before. i could suggest hertz components, either the energy or high energy. they are absolutely fantastic. amazing sound, extremely reliable, and well worth the price.

i want one.

finally, something done the right way. i just hope they now go on to create a law that is constitutional and actually does what it should, which is take care of the pricks that bass heavy in neighborhoods, disturb the peace, etc. http://www.orlandosentinel.com/news/local/os-loud-music-law-unconstitutional-20110512,0,4161161.story

amazing work jon. its always nice to see quality work coming from a local.

felt good to drive 2 miles today with 8 police on motorcycles right behind me, JAMMIN out to billy joel on the way to work. haha.

frostwire always works great for me.. otherwise, there are share sites all over the place. i've found a couple of good ones over the years, but at the moment i cant remember any of the links. i'll see if i can find any of them again.

the 9500s can take a lot of power, but lets be real here.. the level 5 can take a wall socket. btw, sarcasm.. dc makes some great subs, but holy taint some people ride it a little hard. same with audio pipe. and skar.. lol

it would actually be kind of funny if i gained "non-noob" affiliation before him.

silly newb.

if you can afford it, birch. otherwise 3/4" mdf works great. if you're doing something bigger than a single sub, or doing something extremely powerful, buy enough wood to double baffle everything. it'll keep you from having to rebuild later.

hey guys. new to this forum, not new to the world. im over on floridaspl.com as well. i just recently came over to give my 2 cents on a little disagreement some of your "tech masters" had on a malibu build. a bit about me. i started competing sometime in late 2009. in 2010 i managed to win florida state finals, southeast regionals, and took 2nd place at world finals for the 120-129.9 bass race class. i currently have 4 hertz spl show 15"s in a wall, powered by #22 of 50 DD Z-SE as a substage. my front stage consists of 2 sets of hertz hsk 165 xls, and 2 spl show 8"s powered by a hertz ep-4x. by no means the best, but its a solid work in progress, and one of these days i'll get around to being loud or something. nice to meet everyone.

mmmm. florida. lol. jk. jeffery is a nice guy though. his english isnt the greatest, but hes always willing to help out however he can. i love seeing the actual math and theory behind the real life results of things sometimes. the original link was great. somewhat difficult to apply to a massive set up, but i think i should be able to figure it out with my 6 batts and 1 big amp. i guess my only thought is, i would have the alt charging on the same pole as the amp is drawing from. its all going to the same place at some point, but it seems logical to me to have whatever current you can get from the alt headed straight to the amp in order to get maximum potential out of that.

agreed with not mounting amps to the box.. i just usually see buss bars attached to the batteries, as opposed to the batteries having a bunch of short runs of wire to the buss bars. lol

buss bars look good. how are you connecting everything to those up in the air like that?

i know a few people with 2 12" set ups in 3 series bmws... obviously getting sound into the cabin is the hardest, and most important part to this. i would figure that out first, and then act based on what type of space and port/blow through you can get yourself.

if you're dropping below 13 volts when playing full tilt, work on the electrical. if you're holding pretty steady, work on the front stage. beauty panels will only last until you're ready to upgrade again.

ohhh shiz. m5 steppin in with the smack down. anyways, as for musical ability of the subs, thats 90% box... i built a box for my single dd 9518 that was more musical and played lower than any single btl set up i've ever heard... same sub i burped a 147.7 with on less than 2500 rms. either way, this will simply prove that in this particular set up, one sub is more inclined to be successful in that particular scenario. the real test would be doing 20 different boxes, with power ranging from 1k rms to 4k rms, and seeing which subs hold up the best, put up the highest numbers, and are the most flexible in the variation of set ups. that would actually give you an idea of which sub is "better".

it was kind of a basic reply to everyone. lol. and no. if you read the whole post, HE can not prove it. unless of course he has the same exact car, in the same exact scenario, with the same exact build... the math behind m5s argument is factual, but irrelevant to a real life, in car build. as for it sounding good, you're right. that is subjective. as such, m5 shouldnt say it sounds bad (especially when never actually hearing it) and maliboom shouldnt say it sounds good. it sounds good "to him". others have said it sounds good "to them". but as a generalization, thats something that has to be decided each and every time by each specific person.

IF it were accurate, you're right. but alas, he cant prove hes accurate. before you get all gung ho again, read it all. maliboom will probably post up the numbers at some point. when? idk. but numbers will be shown in some fashion or another. that will be his side of the proof. and hopefully the only "proof" that matters... doubt it, but we can hope. what i was getting at in my first sentence.. he can not give an accurate presumption of how that box will act and perform inside of a specific vehicle. he can, and did, give a mathematical and scientific assumption on how the box would act without any exterior variables, but not dealing with anything outside of the actual box its self. how many times have you taken a box out of a car thats doing 140 db at 30 hrtz, put it in another car, and its suddenly doing 133s at 40 hrtz? it happens. vehicles make a huge difference in outcome. and whilst experience does not constitute perfection, it does overcome theory. if a world champion sq guy was telling me that he does things backwards and angles things the wrong way, and its working, i wouldnt doubt him simply because his methods are backwards. in the end, the results are all that matter.

You have a 4th order. i lold. still not loud. partially because of the back wall i split in half, partially because of the 7 of 8 screws holding bottom drivers side sub in that i snapped, partially because of me being alan palmer and never being loud. ever. which is fine, seeing as im co-founder of the Quiet Crew.