mlstrass

With that amount of power I'd go with RL-P's, excellent SQ and the ability to get respectably loud off the amp you have.

Well I "assumed" he was only interested in sub/amp combos since that's what he was asking about originally. Obviously it's not a complete set up and also isn't for everyone, but it seems to be what he's looking for, so I'm just throwing out some combinations that'll work. We tend to forget that not everyone is looking for the ultimate in SQ, and that "your" set up may not be what someone else wants or meet their goals. Trust me I've built plenty of boxes for guys and when they pick them up I usually get to hear what they're running and 99% of the time it's obnoxiously loud tweeters and boomy bass, but that's the "sound" they want, so who am I to disagree. 2000watts is more than enough to get loud with the right sub/box if that's what you're after. Not SPL comp loud, but plenty for a daily driver. Seems as if we've only confused him more instead of offering some guidance/advice that will help him make the right decisions and pick the right equipment to meet his goals...

AudioQue HD 15" off a Sundown 1500D in 4.5cubes @ 35Hz will give you what you want. Plenty of other combos will, but that's one I've personally used/heard. And I'd consider this a good "average joe" system...

800watts is not going to get you anywhere near as loud as you want to be. Get an amp that'll do 1500-2000 and then you'll have plenty of options sub wise: HDC, BL, BTL, DD, and many more.... I've heard/used the HD's & DD's and they'll get VERY loud and sound good for daily/music when tuned to 35Hz.

If you get an EA have Nate put a smaller pulley on it for more idle output. I run an EA 200a with a Deka in the rear and 2 1500D's strapped at 1.5 with NO dimming...

I can only tell you that 3.5^3 @ 32Hz sounds very good in the GF's car. Only box I've tried with the Q. I'd try to go bigger than 2.8 if you can as I ran RL-P's in boxes that size and they worked, but output suffered. Can you go wider and/or a little less depth and put the amps on the back of the box or rear seat? Those amps are monsters LOL

I'll throw out a non FI suggestion, AudioQue HDC315's, but you'll need more than a single SD to power them unless it's a 3000D. 8cubes @ 35Hz would sound very good for music and get stupid loud/low. At least they do in my car....

And what amp will you be using and how much room do you have?

If you had more power I'd go with an Audioque HD. Will get very loud and have good SQ in the right box.

Helix Dark Blue 4 channel will let you run active. That's what I use. Woofersetc has them for $300....

Sometimes there are advantages to NOT having such a trained ear Actually the TV hasn't even been powered on in over a year. You can see the edge of the 92" screen off to the right. It normally hangs in front of the TV/CC, but I took it down to get a few pics...

Current set up is as follows: 2 AA Poly mids mounted in each door. WELL deadened. 80-2500Hz Vifa XT25 mounted about 12" above mids. HP around 2800Hz Xovers done via a Helix amp. I'm very happy with how it sounds, but you know how the upgrade bug is. I'm considering going 3 way with a dedicated midbass to replace one of the poly mids. Something like this: Peerless SLS 8" 60-250Hz Poly mid 250-2500Hz Vifa 2800+ I would also need to get an electronic xover and am not sure what yet as I haven't researched them. I'm looking for more punch/kick up front, mostly for 80's rock/metal, so lots of kick drums. But I don't want to lose the incredible midrange output for guitars, etc... that I currently have. Am I making a step in the right direction or not? Any feedback is greatly appreciated.

Had the same thing happen to one of mine when taking off my door panels a few weeks ago. I left Chad a VM, but never heard back, so I ordered a replacement from Madisound. I didn't expect him to warranty it, just wanted to order a replacement. The terminals aren't held in very well on those tweeters as I learned the hard way.... OT: Is Chad even associated with AA anymore? Seems like he's disappeared and Scott is doing all the talking for AA now.

Actually my mains, CC, and surrounds are MORE than capable of playing down below 80Hz, but unfortunately my Denon won't let me cross lower than 80Hz, and I have no issues localizing the subs, so it's not a problem. But next A/V receiver will have better bass management. I have the 3802 which is about 5-6 years old now, but works fine so I'm not upgrading yet. I run all Klipsch Legends. Mains are dual 12" 3 ways, CC is a converted KLF-10 with 2 10's & horn. Here's a quick shot with the screen taken down. I do run the mains full range and they do quite well as I've tested things about every way possible as HT is more my passion than car audio. My HT set up is designed to make your draw drop, and it does that quite nicely. In the car I'm mostly about remotely loud, clean, very dynamic sound that's a pleasure to listen to. I have that right now IMO, so I should just leave well enough alone. But you can bet when I get the urge to change I'll be here asking for advice.Thanks again...

///M5, thanks for the response and insight. I think for now I'll stick with what I have as it's not like I'm not happy with it and I'd like to enjoy it for a few weeks. Seems like I've been tweaking/changing things all summer. But in the future I "might" try a 3-way set up, although it seems that one of the main advantages is a dedicated midbass that will play lower and I'm quite happy with my subs crossed at 80Hz. Maybe it's my HT background as that's the norm for a THX set up.

And midrange you'd recommend to match up with what I have? Say $50-75 each and up to 4" as that's what I have room for in the current baffles.

Will the poly mids play up to 3500Hz? I had also considered adding a 4-5" midrange and keeping the poly's doing midbass duty, but not sure if that would improve the sound.

I should add that I'm not a SQ purist. I just like my music to be loud & accurate sounding, if that makes sense.

My MO is to make one change and listen for around 1 week, playing a variety of music, so I can get a very good feel for how it sounds to me. So I'll leave it this way for now. Initial impressions are that it raised the soundstage, made it a little wider, and just over all really brought things to life. I've played 70's rock, 80's metal, blues, jazz, female vocalists, etc... and everything sounds much better to my ears.

What effect does it have when wiring the tweeters out of phase? I've heard that it can be another tuning aid, but not sure what it does, or is supposed to do to the soundstage or sound of the tweeter. Will it make them more laid back? Make them distort easier or affect power handling in any way? I ask because I want to make sure if I try it that I don't do more harm then good, so any caveats are appreciated. Searched online and didn't find any useful info, but figured some of the more experienced here might share.

So I take out the first tweeter and it's already wired out of phase, same with the other side. The XT25's use the small terminal for POS, and the large one for NEG which I apparently forgot the other week at 2am when getting them hooked back up. I switched them both to normal phase and put em back in place. Quite a difference in sound/output. Had to cut the EQ back a few notches and then demo'd a bunch of material I'm quite familiar with. They sound much better and keep up with the dual mids with no problem. Before they seemed a little too laid back on some songs, almost muffled at times, but now they sound so clear and detailed, but not in your face. Also sound stage is much more centered now, although a LOT of songs I listen to seem to have high hats/guitar riffs only in the right channel. Guess I inadvertantly tried them out of phase and found out in phase works best in my set up. Thanks for all the advice....

Tweets are HP'd around 3kHz, so maybe it won't make a diff. Heading out to swap them around right now...

He would NOT want to be 4-6 inches off the back wall "if" the port is 2 1/2" wide. He'd want to be 2 1/2" off the back wall to maintain the same port size throughout. It "looks" to be that way, but only he can confirm. It will probably sound ok, but those BL's will give that particle board hell. I'd imagine LOTS of flexing and stuff coming loose eventually, but maybe he'll get lucky...

Good read, thanks...

Thanks guys, appreciate the info. Actually my HU doesn't offer TA, and is one reason I want to play with the tweeter phase as the pass side seems to be more dominant even though it's farther away. It's very much on-axis where as the driver's side is still a little off. I'll mess with phase first, then perhaps move the pass side a little off-axis. Just trying to get that last little bit out of what I have.