mlstrass

LOL...sorry but the phrase "10 tweets" and "better soundstage" don't belong in the same sentence. I'd have to guess that removing about 8 of them would help. Have you seriously deadend the trunk lid? Filled in all the cavaties with Great Stuff? You might not get it dead silent, but that would get rid of 90% of the vibrations. Also see if you can elongate the slots on the trunk latch, so it can be lowered, which will hold the trunk down much tighter.

I know my HD's are STUPID loud and DJ says the SD's will get very loud off less power than the HD, so I say give em a try...

AQ HDC315 will do plenty of LSQ if you have the power for it. The new ones will be out soon and the price is even lower. I ran 2 RL-P 15's in 6 cubes and switched to a single AQ in 4.5 cubes when I moved the RL-P's into the HT. The AQ kills the RL-P's in lows/output and SQ is quite good, not boomy or peaky at all. I was pleasantly surprised. Granted I was on the "small" side of recommened enclosure sizes for the RL-P's. If you're on a tight budget and don't have a ton of power I'd do the MAW's for sure. Seems like a lot of sub for the $$$.

Jake that manual is TOO confusing!!!! I had the same problem when hooking my first one up last year. Diagram is confusing and the manual doesn't mention the amp being bridged internally. Either way....AWESOME amps. Unfortunately I tell the local kids that it's "flea market" stuff since none would buy them anyway. But "moneybags" just picked up 2 on my recommendation. Got them from SSA yesterday, but no t-shirt for me as commission LOL

Well I made some quick angled spacers with PVC and covered them in black carpet. Sound is 100% better. Will give them a good week of listening to decide if I stay with them or try something new. These definitely need to be on-axis or very close...

One of my Vifa's quit playing last night. Not blown, but was cutting in/out. Wiring is fine. I had this problem with one right out of the box. If you wiggle the speaker lead it'll come back on. I'm actually using this as an excuse to try a new set of tweets I run 2 AA poly mids per door and I'm very happy with them and the Vifa's seemed to compliment them well. I'm no audio snob obviously and not looking for THE best there is. I'd just like to try something a little brighter as I found the Vifa's to be rather laid back, which was fine for most music, but on most rock, the cymbals were very quiet/muted. I don't want "in your face" tweets either, just a step or 2 above what the XT25's did. I've been researching on various forums for the past 3 days and have been leaning towards one of these: Seas 27TBFC\G alum dome Vifa XT25TG30 - large format Morel MDT29 Scanspeak D2904-6000 - Just not sure my ears will hear the big diff in price over the others. All opinions welcome....

About 2/3 down the door panel, above/between the mids and slightly angled up. I was also considering trying them in the sail panels (I think that's what they're called) below the A-pillars. I'm just not sure about moving them that far from the mids as I have no TA or anything and don't want to make things worse...

VERY impressive daily set up and nice to hear your comments on the SQ of the BTL's and most buy them to get loud and neve say a word about how they sound for daily.

Usually that's caused by your main ground wire not doing it's job, and sending all the current through the much smaller chassis ground. Which it obviously can't handle and then smokes. I've had 2 friends wire up a crappy ground set up on their race cars, and the car used the $50 shifter cable as the ground wire and smoked it. I was there to see it one time, not pretty....

I can fit a large format as I'm willing to custom fab if needed. I ordered a replacement XT25 and will make angled spacers to get them on-axis, but I still want to try a metal dome that's a little brighter. Will probably try the Seas large format 27TBFC\G, unless you guys think there's something better for my application.

Yes, but my HU doesn't offer much. Let's me choose: 10k, 12.5k, 15k, or 17.5k and then -8 to +8 at that freq. I've tried them all and it makes little difference. I usually run them at 12.5k and +4. I've isolated just the tweets and going to +8 makes them a little brighter, but they're still pretty laid back and will crackle on certain songs. I'd also like to try something that's better off-axis since they're pretty low in the doors. Right now I'm leaning towards the Seas 27TBFC\G alum dome. I just need to make sure I can fit a 4" tweeter in the doors and make it look decent. I've been considering doing fiberglass lower panels, so this might be the time.

Sorry, running on 3 hours of sleep today. If $100 for a pair will do my fairly untrained ears fine, then so be it. But if a $200-300 pair will make a HUGE difference then I'll give em a shot. The Scanspeaks are on sale right now for $260 a pair, but I'm still leaning towards the Seas for like $80. Tweets will be in the doors, above/between the mids. Same place the Vifa's are right not. I'm not overly worried with killer imaging, stage height, etc... Just good detail, clarity, and a little brighter than the soft domes I'm running now. Again I mostly listen to 80's metal/rock, old school hip hop/dance club stuff with the occassional 70's rock/blues/slow stuff mixed in, so I don't need the ultimate tweeter.

I'm running 10g wire for the POS connections and had a hunk of 4g laying around, so I used that to connect the NEG terminals. Any problem with running bigger wire for the NEG connections?

Nope, you read right. I just twisted the end VERY tightly and it slipped right in. The terminals on those amps have around a 1/4" opening, so that's why I tried it. And I had the wire just collecting dust. The "dirty" side of this install doesn't look pretty, but is functional. I'm only worried about making the cabin look clean. I always hear that ugly is loud, so I want to find out

I'm guessing that the recommended 16.5Hz tune is 99% HT use only. Personally I'd tune a little higher, around 19Hz if you want 50/50 music & HT. Model both and see which response you like best. I just moved my RL-P 15's into the house. Each one is in 10^3 @ 19Hz only getting 400watts each and output is incredible for HT and respectable for music.

That's what I'm worried about as the car is black and will show any waves in the trunk lid. Anyone have problems with their trunk lid bulging after using expanding foam? Although I'm considering doing a sealed off front firing set up now, so trunk rattles will be a thing of the past...

Freebie: take off the trunk latch, part on the car, not the trunk and elongate the mounting holes so you can move it down more and the trunk will close MUCH tighter. Aluminum foil Peel & Seal at Home Depot is like $15 for a 6" x 25' roll and will give you 2 solid layers on a normal sized trunk lid. Clean the trunk with brake cleaner and warm the P & S with a hair dryer. I've used it all over my car and have had NO problems with it. And I have a black car, so obviously it gets very hot in the summer. Make sure to overlap the ends as you apply it, as that seems to make it stick even better.

Some people are audio snobs who seem to get the most enjoyment from waxing poetically about their "high end" equipment and the crazy price tags. Others just buy quality equipment and enjoy the sound it produces. This site if full of the latter, and it's obvious what the other site consists of. I do agree that you made a very nice showing for yourself and your company, but I'm sure it fell on deaf ears. Perhaps you could make an "elite" version of some of your amps. Anodized a different color, clear top, and 10 times the price. Then maybe they'd be "snob worthy" LOL BTW....my 2nd 1500D is on the way from SSA, so YES I'm a very satisfied repeat customer who spreads the word whenever I can.

Doing this for a guy on CA.com. Going into an Envoy with charcoal gray interior & woodgrain trim, so I'm trying to match it up, but I've never seen the vehicle. 9^3 @ 35Hz with 106^2 of port. Sub will fire up. Double baffle, window bracing, and 45's in the corners. Some dummy got ahead of himself and started painting before doing the sub cut out. Wooden rings will extend port openings and surround sub.

Look into the AQ SD2.5's. I'm running an HD and the SQ is fine for music/daily and it gets loud. SQ is only a fuzz behind the RL-P's I ran before.

Use the square/rect calculator here: http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxcalcs.asp#wed2

I've used this kit on 3-4 cars and it seems nice for the $$$. http://www.millionbuy.com/hitkit4.html

Guy came to pick it up today, so I took a few pics of it installed. Matched the interior pretty nicely.

That's how I'm running it right now and it's not exactly quiet. But DJ said that 2500+ will really bring them alive, so I'm going to find out if it makes a diff. Also will probably do a 5^3 @38Hz box to see how that works out. I'm at 35Hz right now and DJ said the higher tune will offer more SPL, and the bigger box will help with the lows. And I like building boxes He also said at 2500+ for daily that a SSF wasn't necessary as the motor is over built and won't hurt itself. I'll be sure to post a few pics when the "twins" are in place. Might head out to the garage and build the new amp rack tonight, just to be ready...