poke_joster

^ the irony is fantastic

Ya, I figured I had the fuses right, but would rather double check before finding out I was wrong the hard way How about those amps getting hot in the well? I figure the heatsinks are pretty good and from what I've read they don't get that hot compared to others so I should be safe. So stoked to get all this running finally, just can't believe how much that wiring comes out to be..

I'll be powering an sa-15 w/SAX 1200d, and some ID xs-65 w/SAX 100.4 Plan on getting the Kolossus Fleks 0 Gauge Power Amp Kit, some 40ft of 16 guage KarmaSS, 2 Krystal Kable rca's, and a KONfused distributor for about $160, all from knu clearly. I figure 16guage should be good enough for speaker wire What fuse type and amperage is appropriate/recommended to be in the first foot of the battery for my power line? What size fuses should I get in the distro block for each line? I plan on putting both the amps, crossovers and distribution block in the tire well to be covered with a sheet of mdf for a false floor (maybe a plexiglass view window for looks) will it get too warm under there for the equipment after a few hours listening that I should throw in a cooling fan? They'll be mounted to half inch mdf with the same for a false floor above, so the sides will be open with the exception of a few supports. Is the sealed spec for the sa good to go with or should I make it a little larger(2.5cubes)? I'm going to try it out sealed for a bit while I build a ported box so I can finally hear the damn thing.

250A for up front good then?

Did you have to pay anything for COD or brokerage fees? How much/what did you order? I'm shopping for some wiring and am also in Canada. It'll be cheaper to drive over the border to pick it up than to purchase anywhere local =/ and I don't want to drive. edit: ignore. opened up a tab for the site and read the big banner across the top.

Ya, not really alot you can do there, if there was some way you could actually test the insulation it provides (temperature, electric field, w/e) it'd be kinda cool.

The voltage drop will be the biggest part in this testing IMO Could include what the wire itself is made of, 100% copper, or CCA, what the jacket is made of, if it is OFC, if the wire is oversized to make up for what it is made of (knukonceptz)

So how are you going to be comparing these? Setting up a scale of 1-10, just listing which is better than the next in each stat, or are there some legit tests you can do that produce numbers? I'm in need of wiring for my entire car so will be keeping a close watch on this. Was going to go with Xscorpion, but now that will depend on how it holds up in this competition.

Since your looking up most of these wires, should include a price comparison as well

I will be fiberglassing an enclosure for my SA-15 into the spare tire well, but don't know if it will be happy in a sealed box. I listen mainly to hip hop and occasionally rock, so I want it to hit those low notes with some authority, but seeing as it has such a high F3 I'm not to sure if it will do that. Also seeing everyone else who picks up one of these ports it, I don't want to build a sealed enclosure to find out that it isn't what I want. I'd like to go sealed to make the install easier since it'll be my first time fiberglassing and building a box, and to save a little room and keep the design much simpler as I would like to maintain as much hatch space as I can.

Box dimentions are 30L x 20W x 15.5H" I'm doing this based of some google searches so I'm hoping for the best. If anyone could pitch in who builds these for customers just so I can get a double check before I pay for this?

This is what I've come up with so far, sub will be firing upwards Port is around 3"W x 14"H x 32.5"L tuned to 31Hz Box size is around 3.1 cubes Any comments about if the port seems right, or if I should add some bracing are more than welcome

I'll take the lack of responses to mean that port location doesn't matter. For a box with net volume of 3 cubes, does a port of 12H X 2W x 17.5L sound right for tuning to 31Hz? I've been seeing that you want between 10-16" port area for every cube, but doing so would require a port length of just over 27" (with port area 12"H x 3"W)

Purchased my SA-15, sax-1200d and 100.4 a few months ago, just starting to install everything now and as I'm in the design process for the sub box and amp racks, have a few questions for the box design. I'll be fiberglassing an enclosure into the spare tire well of my rsx, and would like to make it a sealed enclosure for the sake of making my life easy since it will be my first build. Where the hell is the search function on this forum btw?

Car's a hatchback, would firing the sub straight up or directly at the rear glass make much of a difference in sound? Also, would having the port at the bottom of the box make a difference as opposed to being to one side?

Fine. I'll be porting it. Now just not sure how I want it to look, because theres no way I'm going to fiberglass it into the tire well with backfiring ports and still maintaining a flat top. New idea will be to put the amps in the well with a plexiglass window and the sub box on top, but as to how it will look I'm not sure. The layout in the opel isn't bad, but I want it to be moveable if it's going to be above the floor taking up room.

So the three cubes wouldn't include the sub displacement or that area/volume of the port? Just checking about port because I've never been to sure. How do I go about calculating port area/length?

Haha awesome, I've been waiting for you to chime in. You picked out all this equipment for me, now I don't know how I want to implement it lol Would the 3 cubes be internal before or after displacement? And what would the port area and length need to be to tune to that?

Why wouldn't you tune it any lower? How long would that port have to be? It's the fancy shit that's been deterring to me for building a port, but I don't want it any other way =/ Although, I could put the amps in the tire well and build a regular box that could just sit on top and be moved to make things easier..

Ya, so long as it can keep up with the beat and keep a smile on my face. I've got a set of ID xs-65's to be powered with an SAX-100.4 bridged for up front

It'll be powered by an SAX-1200D

What would I want to tune the SA-15 to, and what would be the internal volume and port area + length need to be? I've tried playing around with winISD but I know I'm not doing it properly, and don't trust anything I do with it.

A ported box need ALOT more space then a sealed box. You can't just turn a sealed box into a ported box. Which is why that isn't an option. Otherwise I wouldn't be too concerned.

What are you tuning it to? and what is your internal space before displacement, and port area dimensions and length. Is it an SA-15 by chance?

I'm just looking to see how the sub will perform in a sealed box, if it will be able to hit those lows with authority or if it has to be ported. The design for one over the other doesn't really change much, but the sealed would be much simpler and leave much less room for error. I would build the sealed and build it so it could be turned into ported, but the fact that the ported needs another half cube of internal space, it wouldn't be at all practical. My main goal in this is to maintain as much trunk space as I can without compromising on sound, otherwise I'd just build two box enclosures to compare and call it a day. But since I will be fiberglassing it in I want to do it once and be done with it, and be happy with it.