zora

Any updates from the OP? Have you seen results? JP

Another vote for the Havoc 12. You won't be disappointed. JP

Go with paint, or vinyl. Just my opinion but these look better than carpet. JP

Is your problem amp related? Drivers either work, or not. It sounds like protection circuits are kicking in on your amp. JP

Nice build, it looks great and should sound that way as well!!! JP

With a budget that low, you have your work cut out. You don't have to use an 18" driver. Check out some of the tapped horn threads on DIYAudio.com and see the amazing output people are getting from drivers ranging from 6.5 to 15. JP

Good advice by everyone, don't bother. JP

Well it all the equipment is in my sig except I am running a BXI2610 instead of the RD amp. So for how it's installed, the sub is firing up and the port is firing back. So basically the sub is firing right at the trunk lid. I am thinking about rebuilding the box and firing sub and port into the cabin to help with it, since that should take care of most of the rattle I would think since the pressure would all be getting forced into the cabin. But basically with the design right now I am fucked so some of the closed cell foam kind of lessen the impact at all? Great help. Please spend some time when you make threads to define what your goals are. Perhaps starting with the simple things even like what kind of car it is... <--doesn't have sigs turned on which is rather normal here Didn't know that you had sigs turned off. Ok here is the break down. It is a RE XXX 15 in a roughly 3.5-3.6 cube box before sub displacement. It is sub up port back running off of a BXI2610 in the trunk of a 2002 Grand Prix. My back seats do not fold down, unless I go get some 04+ grand prix backseats which I can modify the brackets and whatnot and make them fold down. All I have is a little section where the back armrest is that folds down and it is down at all times. What else do you need to know? 225 amp alt, kinetik 2400 in the rear. I just put two more layers of deadener on the trunk lid the other day. Note: This problem only seems to be happening at night when it is nice and cool compared to the days. So I wonder if it happens to do with the metal slightly changing due to temperature variations. The trunk is nice and heavy now too due to the deadener, in fact it will not even stay open once you close it slightly. It looks like you have done all you can for the trunk lid. Focus on easing the air resistance path from the trunk to the interior of your ride, as you want the "sound" in the passenger compartment - not wasted in the the trunk area. JP

People may not like Ben, but I've found that the edead products work well and are a good value. JP

The Dayton has an 18hz HPF, doesn't it? You could make a box with a cut-off around there, and the amp should be fine. I do agree with the other comments about needing at least two of these drivers for a HT. JP

Scott, Nick, Shawn - is anyone answering emails? JP

If you can't find one I have quite a few brand new ones just sitting around. JP

They are decent, just don't expect too much. They are cheap because they use inexpensive drivers, simple crossovers, and thin mdf boxes, and the of course off-shore labor. If you want okay HT speakers then they really are not that bad. JP

Another Bump JP

A few "crazy" car audio guys might try them, but I bet there would be some IB HT guys who would be interested in the specs were right. There is no replacement for displacement JP