Fi Car Audio

Wow... ok then. Yes, the specs are correct based off of the fact that the cms decreased more than the ratio of Mms did for the 18s vs the 15s.

What email did you send it to? Dont see anything in Sales@ or Scott@. If thats where you sent it... please try one more time. Thanks, Scott

Your other one got a solid months head start on break in... It really wont be an issue. While the specs are off due to the suspsneions, the overall repsonse is quite similar. They will eventually meet up with the same specs. Hows it sound with the pair in there? Thanks, Scott

Depending on the power you have either the SSD with copper coils or the Qs.

Looking very good! Keep the pics rolling in when you get more done. Thanks, Scott

PMs cleared... or you can email me at Scott@FiCarAudio and I can get you taken care of as well. Thanks, Scott

Received and charged for your order. Ill get a list of everyone that has paid so far and update it on the first page shortly. Thanks, Scott

Which one are you... the one who sent them in or the one that wants recones based off the one that got sent in? I contacted the original sender and told him to have the other one email me as well.... I believe I received an email from the whoever needs the pair of kits for it and replied over the weekend. Got rings machined to bolt the baskets down to the motor pattern. Just needed coil info for the other pair. Thanks, Scott

What do you need reconed? Thanks, Scott

Not too thread jack... but splmark UPS really did an awful job on packing those subs. They simply threw the pair of them in a larger box and dumped peanuts into it. We got them in leaving a trail of peanuts from the UPS truck to the shop and a motor hanging half out of the box. Im glad things were coming in for recones as one of the subs had rubbed a hole through the other ones cone and dustcap. We will get them out to you in a day or two. T-shirts were for people helping rebuild the forum... Ill try to find the post and bump it up on the requirements. Thanks, Scott

Either way... I think I read on the other post somewhere that you have 21" of height to work with. At that, about the only thin you could do would be to tun the port along the top or bottom of the box... about 3" tall the whole width. Itd give you a decent amount of port area. Thanks, Scott

Email me some details at [email protected] Thanks, Scott

Im not sure what he does either, only knowing that he had a decent gain in the bottom end when he switched from MTs to the BTLs and a dB or so on the top. Ill ask him next time I talk to him. Thanks, Scott

Doesnt look like you have been on the list of shirts to ship out. Please email me at [email protected] with your name, address, and size and we will get you one out. You definitely qualify. Thanks, Scott

I will check with him to see what the back stock on subs looks like. I think he mentioned he had 1 or 2 left. Thanks, Scott

Let me know your name and Ill see if I have you on "the list". If not, Ill run back through and check everything and get you out a shirt. Im glad to see that the BLs ended up in a very nice home. Be sure to beat them everyday Thanks and have a good weekend, Scott

Added shirt ordering info to first post... Thanks and have a good weekend, Scott

With a 6" radius, you loose approx 3" off the port length (about half the radius) so you can simply make the port 3" longer... or do it the other way around (word wise) and make your 6" radius, and then add your port board but make it 3" shorter than what is recommended. Should get you really close. But you do have the little odd portion of the 4th wall being flat. Id probably do as above and see if you need to cut an inch off from there. Thanks and have a good weekend, Scott

Depending on how many sides of the enclosure you are using (Ill assume free standing) your port would be right at 28" long. 4 cuft net after port and driver displacement. If you use 1 wall, it will shrink down 1-2" in length. 3 walls, shrinks 3". Thanks, Scott

Nice! Glad to hear Fi is doing well for you all

They do alright Mike Bartells is leading the pack with 178+ with (1)BTL18 and (1)Crown amp.

What are you tuned to? Still low for daily? Solid score. And you gotta love the Wall of Voodoo song in the back ground

Motors really dont have a power rating, as it is a function of the soft parts and coils somewhat more than the motor. But they can be made into a 1000W RMS sub without too much issue. SQ, SPL, some sort of mix of things? What coil? Thanks, Scott

FiHop... We do have several options for the hotcakes as well.. and more being designed all the time

Both... the new ring is slightly thicker and the sleeve wraps over the top vs just a sleeve on the original. In having time to go back through with a new FEA program, the changes seemed to make some sense for this run of them. While it wont be magically amazingly different, it is a tweak that could be made and I felt should be. While it reduces inductance, it also evens the inductance swing, reducing distortion a little further. With most measurement systems, inductance is a lumped measurement, meaning that it averages in and out stroke inductance (which can vary wildly). All to often people add a pole cap as it is very easy to do and they measure a decrease in overall inductance... while there is a decrease overall, it can be completely contributed to the outstroke (which already has the lower side of the inductance swing). So while they see this decrease as a good thing, it actually just increased overall distortion due to making the in and out shift even greater. Nothing magical, just making things incrementally better. Thanks, Scott