Fi Car Audio

190 mm or about 7.5" OD

UPDATE AS OF 05/12/07 Current orders I have that are paid for... Joseph Spalding (2) M Josh Windhausen (1) L and (1) XL Jared Tirche (1) L and (1) XL Ryan Happe (1) L Pamela Herbst (1) L Robert Webre (1) L Aubrey Carter (1) XXXL Kirby Woods (1) XL Joseph Rodriguez (1) XL Dru Abraham (1) L changed from an XL because he is slightly taller and skinnier than I am Nathan Bishop (2) XL David Zolondek (2) XL Justin Whitehead (1) XXL "no BTL" Brandon Dawson (1) XXL Tammy Duarte (1) XXL Dustin lung (1) XXL Curtis Lesllie (1) XXL "no BTL" Mark Hawkins (1) XXXL Chad Lee (1) XXXL If your name isnt up here and you paid... please let me know ASAP! Should be done in a few days and shipped...

SSD12 copper coil, 2 cuft at 32 Hz... good little combination with that amp. Thanks, Scott

Got an email out to you... Thanks, Scott

If you can get 1 cuft before displacement, I would step up to the Q12 sealed. Qtc would be around what most like, and you could back it down a little to .7 with about .75 lbs of polyfill. Less expensive option that a pair of SSD10s and should be about optimal in the space and with that power. Thanks, Scott

There are companies that make dual alt brackets that bolt up to a variety of applications. If not, and you have the ability, most dual alt brackets arent too hard to make.

Lots of factors involved with this one. We rate them at 2000W RMS and you are good with that. While you probably wont be pushing things to their potential, the room for error is eased quite a bit. With cooling, a ported enclosure, and your subsonic set correctly, about the only failure mode would be massive clipping and heating up a coil (which you will smell before it becomes a huge issue and you simply turn things down) And at that... unless you have one heck of a nasty amp when clipping, the cooling should keep the heat in check. Stepping up to 3kW on a cooled version, you often can reach mechanical limits of things... and your room for error gets reduced. With the 4kW and 5kW power that quite a few people are using, your margin of safety is gone and you can easily have both thermal and mechanical failures at that point. While most likely they dont feed them more than 3kW for most sessions, they definitely have the ability to ruin a sub. The only thing I feel that they do have going for them is headroom and plenty of clean power. I dont recommend that much power... and its not my call to make sure that you have the ability to set things up and use it correctly if you do. I know for a fact that quite a few people will get on here happy as can be with 4kW+ per sub and no issues... but it would be irresponsible of me to give people the carte blanche to do so. Thanks... Scott

How much space are you willing to use for an enclosure?

^What he said...About sums things up. The flatwinds are of similar dimension to one another as they can be flattened to keep a consistant OD. The round wire coils do have different ODs and are machined according to the OD+tolerence for the options selected. Thanks, Scott

why, DaGhost, theothermike, and kbkid are all taken care of now. You should have them in on either Friday or Monday. Please post when they arrive. Thanks, Scott

Ill square things away with you. Go ahead and send it in to: Fi Car Audio Attn: Scott Atwell 5480 Cameron St#107 Las Vegas NV 89118 Please be sure to include all contact info on a sheet of paper with the sub. Thanks, Scott

Picked up and will start adressing all of them tonight... Ill update later.

Both subs have shipped, but it looks like the other subs shipped out 2 days later from the ship log. Im sure having a holiday weekend makes the delay even worse. Looks like it should be to you on Thursday. Please let me know if I can help with anything else. Thanks, Scott

Lol... no, Im not planning on divesting myself of Fi. I am the only one with a stake in Fi, and thats the way it will stay. Not that Im a control freak, but having realtively no headaches nowadays is priceless. No XBl for Fi subs. I have other things I can use that work well. Currently we are using MGLC for most setups... not quite a long gap, and not a short one either. Somewhere in between. Ill see about a pic or two. Smoke comes from an angle grinder and flap wheel cleaning up other companies subs for recones And I hate that smoke.

LOL! Love the pics I can use the Q coils in that motor as well. Im sure I can make it a decent 18. Thanks, Scott

(2)SSD10s will have the most output with the given power. How much space do you want to work with? I think mine are in .4 cuft each... been a while. One of these days Ill get aroudn to swapping the standard versions for copper coils, but so far Ive been very happy with the standard SSD10s sealed.

Pole chamfer is a machined angled cut to the top of the pole to help direct air down around the coil and reduce back pressure under the dustcap. Thanks, Scott

Yeah and I had to wait a fair amount longer than expected too... got a call at 5:15 on Friday saying that they were finished (and they close at 5:30 and Id have about a 45 minute drive to get there...). Closed today, so I will pick them up and address them tomorrow. People should start getting them on Friday... USPS 2 day. Thanks to everyone for their patience. Im not a fan of "preorders" but this is a little more unique of a product than subs. Thanks, Scott

While I am thinking of picking up some Zed amps since there has been a decent amount of buzz for them and their SQ ability (for a smallish SQ setup), Im still of the mind that more power is better in most applications SQ wise. Headroom in an SQ system is always a good thing. And I would rather have 250W with 6dB of headroom vs 3.5 dB. Not that I use the power on tap 99.9% of the time... but often running an amp near its power limits also pushes up THD as well (even though you probably wont notice it since precevied distortion in the substage runs at 5%+). Given that you are really talking only about the bass section of an SQ system, the sub and enclosure play a larger roll in things than the "sound quality" of most decent car amps. I would then put the midbass section ahead of the sub amp for blending of the substage as well. It is amazing to most just how much better a strong midbass can make the sub section sound... Memphis amp should be fine...

Tough call on this one. A single sealed 10" isnt the biggest output setup going... and with .6 cuft after displacement you are almost at the point where you could run a sealed 12". 1100W puts you right in Q territory, or with some modded SSD10s with copper coils and a slightly different suspension, a pair of 10s sealed in that space with about .5lbs of polyfill would work well. Id probably shrink things down if you need to go with a sealed 10" from what you have. What vehicle is it and roughly what are the dimensions you have space wise? Thanks, Scott

If not... the pair of Q12s will do great. Id do them in about 1 cuft each after displacement. It should have similar overall output to the 3512 (slightly less around tuning, and then more above and below) and should meet your SQ requirements nicely. The Qs do take some time to break in and really open up when they do.

18cuft tuned between 33 - 35Hz should make for a solid setup. Seems those amps are about 2700W, and should be plenty to get things moving well and keep them happy. Subs are all on the way to him as well. Please let me know if I can help with anything else and keep us posted when it gets going. Thanks, Scott

A single BTL or a pair of Qs would work well. Ive seen 2000s with 2800W birthsheets... so they have plenty of power for either setup.

With 17" of clearance the Q15 will fit no problem. You do have plenty of space for it sealed as well. But its almost a toss up between using that space for a Q12 ported or a Q15 sealed. I prefer the Q15 sealed, but you wont have as much output near tuning as you would with the 12 ported. Power wise you are great for both. Is your friends setup ported or sealed?

^agreed. Since it is going for a number then that would be the best way to do it.