Fi Car Audio

I think the Q would be a better bet given your description as well. Ava and Q are two rather different subs with two different sounds. The AVA is an XBl sub and has a more sterile sound while the Q is a little more involving. Which do I prefer... A little of both, lol. I designed both of them and know their sound rather well. Id say that most daily drivers prefer the Q while its a toss up SQ wise between the AVA and Q. 1 year parts and albor against defects... you can read it here: http://www.ficaraudio.com/shopdata/terms.shopscript Thanks, Scott

If its just a lead I probably can fix it. Depends on how well things are glued between all the poly pieces of the cone. I f I can pull things apart without breaking anything I can rerun new heavier leadwire and solder it up. If anyone wants to send one in to try... let me know. Ill gladly take a crack at it. Thanks, Scott

theabunai... nope. I wish i had more time to sit in front of the tv and relax. Only show I have to watch is Lost. Other than that, I see some random cartoons from time to time with my 4 year old. Sounds like a nice skill to have though... Id trade out this speaker stuff for toilet paper roll manufacturing knowledge profundus-sanus.... provided all soft parts are the same (both standard coils or high xmax, same # and type of spiders) they will be fine together. I dont like using the SPL version for daily as the tolerences are tighter... especially not with the longer coil. There is a good possibility from coil rub. Thanks, Scott

Hmmm... I dont have the cones so I cant recone them... but I might be able to make them round. Not sure if the coil dims are US sized or some Chinese wacky size. One of these days Ill have to pick up a blown one and see what I can come up with. Thanks Scott

Please send me an email to [email protected] Thanks, Scott

Yes, I can come up with a kit for them. I have to dig deep to find the original coil specs, but I have a couple of 2.5" coils that work based off of the drawings I have of that motor. Thanks, Scott

sixftjap....lol! Must not have been paying attention to your name. Where are all my punk records? Cant wait to see the reworked version with that wee lil sub banging away. Shawn... glad the weekend went well. Poor Astro when you get more than two amps on things.

Yes, please send it in so that we can repair it and see if it is a warranty issue or not. Please send it to: Fi Car Audio Attn: Scott 5480 Cameron St #107 Las Vegas NV 89118 Be sure to include your name, address, email, and phone number and we will get back to you when it comes in and we inspect it. Thanks, Scott

Chad is actually out of town right now... I believe he had said he will be back on Wed next week. Ill be sure to get this taken care of when he returns. Thanks, Scott

Lead "slap" isnt a problem, but the leads will hit and sandwhich between the cone and spider eventually wearing into the spiders if pushed hard on the bottom end. WHile the rub marks in the spiders dont look so wonderful, they dont pose a problem or failure mode at all. D2 is a slightly larger OD coil and could theoretically handle more power... on the reality side of things there really isnt any noticeable differences between the two. Please try to email me again at [email protected]

Please email me at [email protected] (both of you) and we will get you taken care of ASAP. Thanks, Scott

What is your email address? I dont think Ive seen anything or responded to anything about a BTL smoking in 5 minutes... Whats your setup like? Thanks, Scott

theabunai...lol yes we love each and every one of them Nothing special about the designs at all. They were just set up to be solid all around performers and not try to push the limits of linearity or tech... I have found through the years that a good portion of people simply do not like the sterile sound of an ultra linear Bl sub. I do... but many do not. Not rocking the boat with these at all... but they seem to do a good job. 12 Hz? Wow... I usually set things in the high teens to 20 or so. Id let a tactile transducer do the balance if I needed anything below that and take the extra output out of the higher tuned sub for most HT applications. Youd be amazed at what people think is "better" when output vs extension is concerned. Thanks, Scott

Oh so true. 1W/1m is infinitely more useful than 2.83V and it is always fun to see a 102dB at 2.83 V 12" sub from some companies. Creative marketing at its finest when it is a dual 1 Ohm coil and you only know they measured the driver in parallel with 2.83 V. Looks much nicer to measure things at 16W vs 1W...lol Nevermid the fact that the tolerence factor for overall TS params is huge with such a low DCR as well (how many of you have meters that read to .001 Ohms let alone measure "0" when you cross out the leadwires... now you can see how even .1 Ohm makes a HUGE difference when you are measuring a DCR of .5 Ohms for TS param calculation. 20% error... vs 5% if measured in series at 2 Ohms.... or about 1% on an 8 Ohm driver. Now from a little different viewpoint... Id love to buld 8 Ohm drivers. I can make an 8 Ohm driver do the same thing as a .5 Ohm driver, but with a smaller motor and often more overall efficiency which translates into less cost to the customer. Why dont I? Well because the market keeps heading in the direction of ultra low impedance amps and setups. The problem with this is that you are moving into a much higher current than voltage and you need to use heavier AWG wire to handle the current... which in turn makes the gaps larger/reduces flux density, increases moving mass, and requires larger motors and heavier duty parts in general. At 8 Ohms, you have signifcantly more voltage than current which means that you can reduce the wire AWG, tighten up gaps, and often shrink the motor down to maintain overall specs. I have hi-pot tested coils to over 1000V with no arcing or shorting between turns. But try to run 100 A through 20 awg wire and things tend to get mad. You do have increase inductance with a higher impedance coils of the same winding height, but relative to the DCR, it is often better of a ratio than the inductance vs dcr on the .5 Ohm coil which translates into better high frequnecy extension. As for the other stuff of interest... a higher impedance driver is not always higher efficiency with the above formula in real world practice either. Looking at a 3" coil that has 2" of windheight of round aluminum wire for coils of DCR 6.13 Ohms and 3.07 Ohms. If we jockeyed the B to be the same between both motors (by either keeping the same motor and gap for both coils, or by shrinking the motor and tighening the gap on the higher DCR coil because we can) we can knock that out of the equation. Same goes for SD since both drivers will use the same soft parts... so what we are left with is L^2 / (R * Mms^2) Since this is a normalized number we only look to see the higher value as being more efficient... For the 6.1 Ohm coil we have a wire length of 74.44m and a moving mass of 80g. Looking at it with only coil mass will yield a value of .1417 for the 6 Ohm and .111 for the 3 Ohm coil. And indeed the higher impedance coil is more efficient. But... now add the balance of the soft part moving mass of say 100g and the 6 Ohm coil is now .0280 and the 3 Ohm is .0284... 3 Ohm becomes more efficient then. Or by the example above keeping the wire Awg the same and decreasing wind height to drop DCR, you have a 3.07 Ohm coil with the same wire as the 6.13 Ohm coil with a wire length of 37.84m. Adding in the same soft part mass, you end up with a value of .0234 which is lower than both other drivers... but I would think that having half the windheight would have other drastic implications depending on how the gap height to wind height ratio is as well... with a gap of 1", you got to an even hung setup where you are not even using the balance of stray field either... resulting in more issues. At .500" gap height and even stray field both sides, you might get all of the useable B over the L of the wire with the shorter coil, but no where near the linearity of the the other two options. Keep in mind that the "l" in this equation is not the overall length of wire on the coil, but what portion of the wire is being acted on from the flux in the gap (plus stray field out of the gap). With a 4 layer coil you have an Le of 8.34 mH for the 6 Ohm and 5.25 mH for the 3 Ohm... first glance looks like the lower Ohm coil is the winner due to reduced inductance, but when you actually calculate it based off of DCR/2Pi * H for the corner frequency, 6 Ohms is 116Hz and 3 Ohms is 92. Looks like the higher inductance/DCR coil will play up higher as well... There are several other ratios and relationships between gapping, coil, B, wire and other factors that really come into play in driver design. Bl in and of itself isnt always the key either. So at the end of the day, I am forced to keep pushing in the wrong direction... Oh well, it seems that 40 lbs speakers that can do the same thing as a 90lb counterpart just dont look as cool

Yep... email and tracker sent earlier today. Keep me posted. Thanks, Scott

Yep SASE to us and we will drop a couple of the 4" ones in it and send them on back for free. sent sent and sent. Thanks, Scott

Lots of sticker requests lately... Ill have to code the accessories section of the site after the Ascendant launch in early July. Until then, I dont have a spare second for that stuff

That is a problem... I noticed an email from you as well (name sorta sticks out...lol) Ill get back to you there. Thanks, Scott

We recommend 12-16 sqin of port per cuft of enclousre. But there comes a point when enclosures get that large that 300sqin of port for 21cuft is just dumb for a daily driver and you probably wouldnt notice a difference between that and say 200. But... as it is rather large as well, having 200sqin of port is still only 12" long (before any sort of end correction if it is not free standing).

I should probably change that to fractions instead of decimals... its the engineer in me that has to use decimals, lol...

Nice lolhater6683... ah grip tape. How many files have I killed setting up a deck with good ol grip tape

While I can recone them, I usually prefer not too. The way they are set up and the plastic parts used are not recone friendly. There is usually a decent amount of trimming and finagling to get things to work in there. Sorry

We are still working on something. Ill keep you all posted when we get it going. Thanks, Scott

For the smaller ones (4") if you simply send in a self addressed stamped envelope to: Fi Car Audio Attn: Stickers 5480 Cameron St #107 Las Vegas NV 89118 We will drop a couple of them in the return envelope and send them out to you. I do have 12" ones (white, black, and silver) but I havent set things up to be able to purchase them yet. Thanks, Scott

Nice score and I love the instal