Fi Car Audio

I like the SSDs

James, Thanks for the payment. I have processed you order and it will be finished in the next couple of days. Please let me know if I can help with anything else. Thanks, Scott

I had sent you an email on the 11th with details and resent in tonight in replying to one of your emails from today. Ill repost the first answer here... Since you already have a built Q, we can only add the plug and the spider pack. We cant add the axial cooling channels. It is a recone plus the plug and would run you $115 plus return shipping. Do you have the original packaging? You can send the sub to: Fi Car Audio Attn: Recone 5480 Cameron St #107 Las Vegas NV 89118 Please be sure to include a sheet of paper with your name, address, email, and phone as well as what you want done to the sub. We will call for payment (for either paypal or cerdit/debit card) or you can send a money order along with the sub. I cant seem to find your zipcode so if you can forward it to me I will let you know what return shipping will be. Normally it is 3-5 business days to recone things and add the plug plus return shipping. It should be able to take the power of that amp if things are set up correctly in your system. Thanks, Scott

I had sent an email to Penni this morning with the tracker and info. Its scheduled to arrive tomorrow. Thanks, Scott

Glad they are working out well for you and thanks for the nice review. Please give us an update in a few weeks Thanks, Scott

Agreed... if you want to biamp definitely go active. MUCH more control. While we have done tons of work on a comp set, it has been on the back burner until things get rolling smooth with the company in general. Dealers have requested a few other things before a higher end comp set from us. It will get done, just not for a few months. (and it wont be biampable) Thanks, Scott

I havent released the specs for the Arsenal lineup as I am testing a S4 coil for them. I can break that one down to a D2, as well... we will see what it looks like spec wise first, but there hasnt been much initial interest from dealers for a D2 or S4. Most were talking about a pair of subs on a 1000-1200W amp, which the D4s seem to cover for most amps. Hopefully by the weekend Ill have specs for those and release both. D4 will be the initial version for sale though. Thanks, Scott

The 1.4 coils are the D2s. We do machine each motor differently and what we machine them to is set by the customers choice of coil, or by them selecting "universal". Each motor is machined to optimize the gapping for each coil as they are slightly different in ODs. The universal option allows the use of the largest OD coil in the series and therefor all of the others as well. In your case, the D1.4 coil is the largest OD and so it is also the same as the universal option. You can stick any of the other coils in the motor... with the exception of the high xmax coils if it is only a 2 magnet motor. Hope that makes a little sense.

Damon, thanks for sending those out Ill post it again for those that might not know. If you send a self addressed stamped envelope to : Fi Car Audio Attn: Stickers 5480 Cameron St #107 Las Vegas NV 89118 We will send you back a couple of the 4" stickers. Thanks, Scott

Should make for a solid setup. With 1350 a sub I would at least do the PC... and the flatwind if you have a little extra $$$. Full loading the sub wont be necessary for the power, but it seems most do anyway. Thanks, Scott

Still sounding to your liking with more time on it?

Agreed with Tejcurrent. Ill add to that as well....on a budget, and having some space to use, I would go for the pair of 15s. The pricing between the a pair of SSDs and BTl is fairly similar yet you will have more output for the same amp size with the pair of SSDs vs single BTL (up to the point where the SSDs tap out and the BTL will take more). But, to really get the BTL louder, you would have to have a fair amount more power, do more electrical upgrades, and really have to spend some $$$ to do it right. I think that the above amp, or something similar, an upgraded battery and power wires along with a pair of SSDs (since you like things low, look to the copper coils on the SSD as well) in a solid low tuned box will get you what you are looking for. The upside of the single BTL is using half the space... the downside is the extra cost to really do the sub justics and your setup correctly. Thanks, Scott

Neither would I. Ntrain2k seemingly summed most peoples experiences with the older XXX up. The old XXX was an XBl sub and was much more sterile in the bass department. It did just about the same sound inf it had 1 W or 1600W going to it. While this sounds like it should be a good thing (and to me it is) many people didnt like the sound. It just didnt start to punch like most people like. With other non linear motors you start to get a Bl/spec shift and a warmer punchier sound when pushed harder. People are used to this and seem to like it more in general... Id say 4 out of 5 or more do. I have had a couple of people swap in the Q in place of the older XXXs and keep the Qs installed. I dont think it is a statement about the Q being better... just that it is about as capable overall and people like the sound a little better. Both love to drop deep, but the Q has less inductance and will play up higher as well. Thanks, Scott

Do you have an enclosure for them? Set the subsonic filter a 2-5 Hz below tuning depending on the filter rate (12dB rate should be set closer to tuning and a 24dB can be set up to 5 Hz below). I recommend an 80 Hz low pass setting for almost any system. Setting higher ruins the bottom end intigration and draws your attention to the "bass" in the rear of the car. Setting lower in most systems leaves a hole in the response as most people dont have enough midbass as it is. If you dont have an oscope then set gains lower to start with. A multimeter can help things along, but with some of the tutorials I have seen lately, they look to get more people into trouble than they are worth (truly you cant set up an amp with only a multimeter unless you have a current clamp and even then... its no where near as accurate as with an oscope). Even though the BTL should take that power with ease, starting on the safe side of settings and backing your way into higher ones is the safe way to go. If you have any specific questions, please let me know. Thanks, Scott

Ill get you taken care of on that one. But lease write it on the info sheet as well so it isnt overlooked by either me or an employee that might be doing the recone. We normally reuse what was on them. Thanks, Scott

Excellent. Glad you like them. You should have a VERY reliable system with the power you have on them. If you get a chance, please post an update in a few weeks after things have had a chance to break in and any of the "honeymoon factor" might be over. Thanks, Scott

I do have a single 4 coil for the Assassins that will work, but dealers seemed to want dual 4 at about a 4:1 ratio. If I get enough of a call for them, Ill probably make them as well. As for the power handling on the Arsenals... I would in no way figure that a pair (assuming you are running a pair of them as you have a 2500D and are using D4s) could take 1250W each. That is FAR beyond what the parts and design of the original drivers should handle. You must have things dialed in well as I have seen people give hell to other much more capable drivers with similar power. Id say you would be the exception more than the rule on that one. As usual I stick to what I feel are realiable ratings for products. With that you shouldnt have any issues. I do think we are at a point now that power is so inexpensive and we are seeing more and more massive "first" systems that taking a safer stance with power ratings is the only way to go. Like with the Fi products Ill let people push the envelope with power on their own. Knowing full well that if they are having issues with the products at the rated power, that they have something set up wrong. Havocs will run sealed, but they like lower qtc alignments for a solid f3. .6-1 cuft for ther 12 and 1.8-3 cuft for the 15.

It was not sent from Fi, but from UPS(Quantum View). It often gets caught in the spam filter or simply overlooked as it is not from Fi. As the above email address is the same that you entered for the order, an email was automatically generated via UPS when your shipping was processed. I sent an email with your tracker. Thanks, Scott

We did make a few of the XXXs in D1 and D4. While rather rare... I do have a few of the correct coils for them. It have slightly different specs than the original D2, but no different than any of the D1s that we made. Please send an email to [email protected] or [email protected] for pricing info. Thanks, Scott

I got plenty of "Are you going to have a presale" questions along the way... Ill keep my thoughts to myself on presales of products At the risk of sounding like a pompous a-hole, I dont see a need to do a presale or introductory price on the web. Some of you know me through Fi and other previous companies... and I feel I can safely say I have been there and done that for most things relating to audio and sales. I have seen what intro pricing, sales, and group buys do and its usually a quick fix for other issues. After group buys at a previous company, direct sales would lag for a few months... and when you spread out the large group buy sales plus the sales for the next 3-4 months you always come up short vs the same time period without the group buy. Then people come to expect a group buy and cheap pricing and simply wont buy unless there is one (which makes sense). AA isnt set up for that, and with SSA being the only net outlet, there simply wont be any reason to cut our own throats. I do understand that initial sales via the net will be slower without it, but at the same time there simply isnt that mentality to wait for the next sale or group buy that I dealt with before. Not too mention that AA is not based on net only sales, and the net factors into the equation as only one small part of the total sales strategy. I guess we will all sit back and see what happens in the next couple of months... I might be sitting on some dusty boxes in a few months steps off of soapbox... Thanks, Scott

Gotcha covered in an email Thanks, Scott

Yes, please go ahead and send the tweeter in to me at: Fi Car Audio Attn: Scott 5480 Cameron St #107 Las Vegas NV 89118 Please be sure to include a sheet of paper with your name, address, email, and phone number with the tweeter so we can get in touch with you. Thanks, Scott

Hmmm... well pricing for the the other two lines is less expensive than the original pricing. No, it is not less expensive than the intro or presale pricing, but I never thought that people would be basing things off of that "sale" price point. There is now significantly more overhead and dealer margins to contend with as well. So I honestly felt (feel) that the pricing is spot on for what the subs are. At $425 (plus shipping) for the original Havoc vs $339 shipped for the new one seems cheaper to me

To be honest, Im not sure what those other dims are. Ill measure a basket when I get into the shop today. Normally people are only concerned with the gasket on dimensions. Ill let you know. Thanks, Scott

Arsenals: 10" $165 12" $175 15" $195 I think I need mod powers over here...lol