Fi Car Audio

Damien, I had replied to an email received from a FOULON email address. But that was in regards to a 15" BTL. I will answer this as it seems your requirements might have changed. A pair of Q12s would work well with that amp for a clean SQ setup. No need for 3 cuft sealed. I would probably do 2-2.2 cuft sealed after driver displacement. 1.25 cuft isnt bad either and it will have a slightly lower Qtc (which I enjoy). If you have a strong midbass up front, then using the box you already have at 1.25 cuft per sub should be fine. Please let me know if I can help with anything else. Thanks, Scott

Been years since I have done a Jeep box. If I remember correct you can down fire (3)10s in a wedge box in the back sealed. (2)12s sealed might fit front firing, but I have no idea what the actual enclosure dims are anymore...15+ years since Ive done one and lots of speaker building fumes later...lol I was thinking that you can really only get about 1.5 cuft out of it... which would be tough for a ported 12". For something in the opposite direction of stealth... Pulling seats or folding will make a huge difference with the amount of sub that you can use. Although it is a hardtop they are usually fairly leaky and if you ever run without the top on, Id look at the system as a boat or convert setup. At that point, surface area is king. You simply arent going to get much cabin gain and reinforcement down ultra low, so Id focus on multiple larger driver sealed to increase output. With the seat removed, (4)15s sealed wouldnt be an issue to fit. Im sure there are quite a few solid 15 D2s or S4s that could be had in your price point... Same goes for higher numbers of 12s or (4)12s if the seats are folded.

Peaking at 41 youd probably need to tune around 36 Hz or so. With the box sizing and specs, its not set up to be a massively peaky system but a solid daily driver. Modeling it you can see where you get a 1.5 dB boost tuning higher, but not a specific "peak" like youd want for pure SPL. Do you have a multimeter and current clamp? Id be interested in seeing where your peak is right now with the port and subs that close to the rear of the hatch. Im suspecting that things are tuned even a little lower than the "box" would suggest given how it setup. Not a bad thing in my book as it makes it even more of a bottom end monster. Nice box and build. Please keep us posted as to how they sound long term. Thanks, Scott

It will perform like new. If it "looks" like new is up to the glue job of whoever recones it

Found from some old lit that it is set to 27Hz at 12dB/Octave. 13 Hz and that shallow of a slope is WAY too low. Normally set 2-5 Hz below tuning depending on filter slope. Old RF was tough stuff. I melted plastic with my old Punch 45... thing got so hot for so long that the black anodize started to turn brown and gold. Took way more abuse than any other amp Ive ever owned until the day I sold it.

Going by the OP the SSDs would be my personal choice. The Qs would be a great choice (2 Q12s were mentioned) but there isnt enough space (per the original post at 3-3.5 cuft) With 2600W, (3)Q10s would be nice, but they wont perform any better than the SSDs. Now if it was 3-4kW Id say (3)Q10s in that space. Otherwise save the $$$ with the SSDs. Thanks, Scott

Please sne me your zip so that I can get a shipping quote for you. HI and AK are extra as they need to be air shipped. USPS is usually the least expensive method except for triple stack BTL 18s. They weight over the limit. I think you emailed too... replied to that as well. Thanks, Scott

Slim8605. The 41 cent stamp isnt an issue Send me your name/address and Ill get you a couple out. Definitely no offense taken. I read/take everything on the net with an initial dose of sarcasm. Yours was obvious. Thanks, Scott

lol... wow. Hadnt thought about that post since Tracy from Kicker seemed to end it... I left, Im happy and thats all that matters to me. Flakko... no poly mids for you! Well not until we have them back in stock anyway

Me, yell? lol We are about as laid back a bunch of people as you can find. Normally when that happens, UPS is at the door and they are trying to get the last sub packed for the last pick up of the day and simply forget. Although I did have one guy that seemed morally opposed to putting stickers and the little flyer in the boxes. But he is no longer with us anyway

Oh... didnt know it was only 300W to them??? Might side a little more with Nicks idea then.

Found the issue... it has taken several months of playing below tuning to break them in... the filter is 27 Hz at 12 dB per octave fixed. This allows for full power to go to the subs below tuning which is equivalent to free air. Need to either get a filter in line to get rid of those frequencies, change the amp, or change the enclosure and tune lower. Or what Nick said ^^^^^

email me at [email protected] and Ill give you a call. But even if I could get them shipped tomorrow (and Im not saying that I could get everything machined and built by then) you still are at the mercy of customs... which can take 6-10 days.

Either both subs have problems, its a power/amp issue, or a tuning/settings issue. What are you tuned to and where is your subsonic set to? Seems like it might be playing below tuning. What amp?

To be honest I dont know. China sometimes uses standardized coils. Were those 2.5" coils? But Noah might have experience with it already...

Not sure what your name is, but Ill gladly send some out and verbally abuse whover packed it Send an email to sales with your name and info and Ill send some out to you. Thanks, Scott

Ill have to see if I can make a good pdf/vectorized logo for Ascendant. Give me a little bit and Ill post one up.

Sorry... Assassin styled ones but larger. Too much moving mass with those huge dustcaps. I can only overcome the extra mass with a larger motor (which the Havoc has)

Plase send it to: Fi Car Audio Attn: Scott 5480 Cameron St #107 Las Vegas NV 89118 Please be sure to include your name, address, phone, and email on asheet of paper with the sub. Thanks Scott

I had to go back and check that one...lol Yes I did say that, but it was in reference to a pair of D4s not a single sub. You are correct with the loads for a single driver. Had me worried for a second Shibby, the .75 Ohm is a DC or 0 Hz. The amp will never see that and it will be a reactive load (meaning the load will change with frequency and power applied). This is where the "nominal" load of 1 Ohm comes in. Thats the lowest reactive load that the amp will ever see, and for most enclosures it might be several times that. Thanks, Scott

Yep we can add that for you. Usually UPS wont leave things sitting at apartments... but then again, not every driver is a rocket scientist when it comes to that either.

Anything in the 400-600 W range should work well for them. A little harder to find a 2 Ohm mono amp though.

If its a fully loaded D2, then it is machined for universal already. The D2 coil is the largest OD coil for the BTL. Anything else will swap in. Universal wont hurt the power handling at all, especially not with your coil choice. The ID difference isnt majot and on a slightly smaller ID coil, it simply flows through the axial vents a tiny bit less and over the gap a little more. Not a big deal and theoretically it might be better (havent measured a temp difference in testing though). Thanks, Scott

uh, oops.

Let me run through and look for your emails. I set the spam filter to pass them... not sure why they were getting stuck there in the first place. As for the two MT options, Id take the pair of 12s in 3.7 over a single 15" in 3.2 Thanks, Scott