Fi Car Audio

lol.. no worries. I wont get into the implications of selling motors or kits for products. Just that we wont piece out a sub like that.

To be honest, I have no idea. If its a US standard sized ID coil, then Im sure we can. But with MA, you never know what China is using About the only way is for you to measure with calipers the ID of the coil, then Id know if I could... but youd still need to send it in for me to test fit and find the best parts for it. Always best to have a new sub in house before I do a recone.

Depends on which version of the TC9 it is. The older shallow ones wont take Q parts as the coils are too long. The newer version will.

Well, Noah, head on down to Shawns... theres 8 of them waiting for you Type R 0149... I think itll make a really solid SQ setup given the components and balance of the system. While its not going to rip heads off, itll be clean and still have room for the groceries or golf clubs

Thats a real tough one... 50sqin isnt much at all and with any real power to those subs, the port would compress like crazy. Any way to add more aeroports on the outside of the enclosure for the pair of MTs?

tRiGgEr... glad you got it. We had typed the street# in incorrectly and by the time I had read this and called UPS, they had said that it had already been corrected. Sorry for the inconvenience. Please let me know if I can help with anything else. Thanks, Scott

lol... something like that I figured thats what "dead" is for. Ive got plenty of time to do that when Im 103.

I do not like the BTL10 as mentioned above... the space and geometry of the basket and cone combination is simply to tight to allow for what the motor and coil combination can do. Id need another 1" of space between the spider landing and mounting flange to clear everything properly. As there simply isnt much of a demand (next to none) for a fully loaded BTL10, I wont spend the money on tooling at new basket for it. Id rather modify a BL even further than make a BTL10". Thanks, Scott

Did you get a chance to measure and see at what frequency your vehicle peaks at? Are you simply wanting to hit the highest SPL number possible? Or are you looking for a useable daily driver? Box is definitely on the small side, port area is pushing limits as well (although there is a difference between 25sqin of aero port vs a 25 sqin slot port in terms of air flow). Can you run the ports externally and add more ports as needed for tuning and air flow? This will increase the current enclosure volume, although not look as clean. But it also gives you easier access to tuning and tweaking as well. 3-4 aeroports should be plenty for SPL... and you can probably get away with just 3 for daily. Id say that with only 2 of them on a 15" tuned low you will run into compression issues if you get anymore power than you currently have. As for the amp, VXA=total Watts used, and not actually what is powering your sub. It includes the power turned to waste heat and the power that is pushing the sub. This is where the efficiecny number comes into play... and 60% is rather typical for an AB amp. This means that for all of the current X voltage pulled that only 60% of it will be used to power the sub and the other 40% is waste heat. This is where just roughly going by what is presented (12 V and 100Amp fuse rating) that you get 800W to the sub (balance of energy is turned into heat). Please let me know if I can help with anything else. Thanks, Scott

How much power are we talking per sub?

Email sent

Nope. I hate dealing with finger prints on them and really have never had any request for them from OEM clients either. Thanks, Scott

Ill have to run through my emails and see if one got overlooked from you... sorry.

Not sure if there is an appropriate temp... what I would say is that if you smell coils getting hot or burning, that you need to back off. This is a much better indicator of a problem. If I play a sub for 10 hours and the coil is only 200 degrees, everything is fine temp wise for that coil, but the motor and dustcap would probably be very hot too. Now if I played the sub for 15 seconds and the coil was burning and stinking, it is possible that the dustcap would be no where near as hot as it was in the previous example (and Im sure the motor would be just as cold as when it started). But you definitely would have issues with the sub. Pay attention to the coil and smell more than the dustcap Thanks, Scott

Hmmm... I guess I could say Im VERY familair with the Brahma Mk1 and 2 subs as I built them all Two very different sounds. I would say that from a durability point of view that the Q is much tougher overall. From SQ, its hard to say. I do like the XBL sound or I wouldnt have used it in my own products or others for OEM. The Q does sound different and many people prefer it over the drier/sterile XBL sound. As mentioned above, it is completely subjective and harder to actually quantify a preference. 1500W to a Brahma scares me though. The coil is less than half the size of the Q...

Just saw this post too... your other dims say 49" W and thats what I designed things too. Is it 42" wide then? Ill redraw and design based off of that if its the case. As for the midgate, what you described sounds like a solid idea. That would give you 2 layers for the front baffle (with subs either recessed into the second midgate piece or ontop of it as well for a true double baffle. I know with the things open from the cabin to bed in Shawns Avalanche, it was quiet on the road... so I figure that it doesnt need to be an air/water tight seal between the two. Ill call him up today and ask him his opinion on it... in the meantime can you check to see if you have 49" or 42" of useable width for me? Thanks, Scott

Voice coil ID and OD. This will let me know what MTX felt they could fit in there anyway. Im sure that they didnt waste flux by designing a monster gap and sticking a puny coil in it... probably the max dimensions Ill be able to stick to. Thanks, Scott

Tempe, glad to see you hanging around here!

Ill try to get some up later today. Nothing magical about them... fairly standard middle of the road enclosure requirements. Thanks, Scott

Dealers by far requested dual 4 coils for them... so thats what I made from the start. If I have enough requests I can build some single 4 drivers as well. Thanks, Scott

Its a reasonable thing to do... knowing that you will gain some overall efficiency with the "huge" box for the pair of subs but loose some mechanical ability at the same time. Should make for an interesting comparisson once you drop the other subs in. Are you getting 2 more amps as well? Thanks, Scott

Everyonce in a while I actually "work"...

Hmm... I might go for the SSD12s with the copper coils and stuff them with about 3/4 of a cuft of poly fill each. A little on the larger side for the 10s and a tiny on the small side for the 12s... but you can over come the slightly increased QTC with the poly fill. Not too mention more output with the 12s. Thanks, Scott

Wow... not sure about that one. I couldnt see how it would be the sub though. Id try and hook up another speaker/sub to see if it does it too. 99.99% sure it will. Id have to say its the amp. Thanks, Scott

Well if it is 2 3/8" like their info says I wont be able to do it... my 2.5" coils are 2.500" ID. Noah... if you get a chance can you measure the coil ID and see what it actually is? bromo... lead is no problem. Send an email to [email protected] with your address and Ill get you some out.