Fi Car Audio

Looking good! I got 8 of these motor thingys machined and assembled. Gonna start all the soft parts and fumes tomorrow

What kind of 4 door is it and how much height do you have to work with?

How much power do you have to work with? Ill see if I can come up with anything that might work...

ANeonRider... Ive got a $5 that Ill put down on that bet lol... Im not much of a gambler The Q has aluminum round wire coils. Not copper or flat. While flat might help a little more with power, other things need to be worked on to handle the extra power as well... hence the BP option. Copper simply would weigh far too much to be useful. Not much of a difference with the specs for the flatwind... copper allows things to drop deeper and does have different specs. But as mentioned above, we go more by what we have tested over the years and know to work well vs what the programs tell you to use. Vehicles transfer function will dominate the pretty response curves from the box programs

Thanks for the review. Please keep us posted as to how it does long term... itll break in some over time and the sound will slightly change. Most say it drops a little deeper after break in.

Im assuming that is 3.75 net after port and driver displacement (if thats not the case, change all the 15 recommendations to 12") The BL would be a little bit flatter overall with probably closer to a 50/50 split. The Q15 would need to be tuned a little lower to try and knock out some of the 40-50Hz hump it would have (BL has a flatter response in that sized enclosure, although not as much overall linearity)

Glad they are working well for you. Solid score. How do they sound for music?

In all honesty, I wouldnt worry too much about it. Id simply keep beating on them until you get something to fail. Having cracks, tears, or rips in spiders often occurs with overexcursion. But even at that I have seen subs continue on without issue. How old are the subs? Thanks, Scott

Pricing can be found on the site with only differences in shipping between the 2 and 3 magnet versions. 2 magnet shipping: $58.70 via USPS priority 3 magnet shipping: $44.60 via USPS priority Since this is for a daily driver that with see some contests, I would definitely get the "daily" version and NOT the SPL. Thanks, Scott

Everyone about summed it up. For less money you can keep the same sub in a new system... just change the size and softparts to match the new needs.

Nope, didnt see it. Ill go ahead and check through all my proto coils tomorrow and see what I can find. But just measuring the couple I have on the desk, Id have to wind a 4 layer down to a 2 layer to get the OD acceptable. I think Ive got some others that might be a better fit though. Main issue is the smaller ID than standard... in order to ensure that the OD of the coil doesnt rub, you would need a really small coil... Ill post back later. Thanks, Scott

Sorry... I dont have any. But I normally just cut back about 20% of the wire and twist. There is no loss in doing so as it is only over 1/2" of length

We started production on them today. We will have a good portion of them built by the end of the week and probably begin shipping early next week. Thanks, Scott

Yes we can recone them. We only made a handful of them and we ahve all the parts for them in stock. Please go ahead and send an email to [email protected] and we will get you taken care of. Thanks, Scott

You are definitely small for a pair of SSD18s, but still doable. Im hoping that you have the copper coils as it will help some with the smaller space. You have 13.35 cuft to work with... so honestly this is going to be a tough one to fit. Trying to keep things around 12 cuft total really limits port sizing. You will absolutely have to radius all port edges to keep noise down. For port forward you could do 4" X 25.5" X 16" long or with port up you could do 4.5" X 23.5" X 17.5" long. Aeroports are another option you coild try as well. Approx (6) 4" aeroports ((3) per side) that are about 17" long in the center section would work well.

This is going into an SUV? How tall is it to the back of the seats? Ill shoot for (4)18s as you are sitting at 28 cuft right now, but if you only have 20" to the seats youll be down to (4)15" territory. Also is 33" high to the roof?

lol...

Thanks for the order. Please keep us posted on how it sounds

Marshal????!?!? Is that you? Give me a call! Id look to (4)SSD 15s with that power. Should make for a solid setup with 3kW. And if Marshal is behind it, it will be loud.

Just copying and pasting from another thread to here as well to save a wee bit o time. After having read through all of this... Im not saying what the RF tech said is incorrect, but it isnt telling the whole story either. Just because a driver is the same size, same nominal impedance, and in separate but equal enclosures/chambers, does not mean it will work properly or optimally. Yes, it will work. But not as good as it could. To me it is like taking a 35" tire off my jeep (15" wheel with a 35" off road tire) and replacing it with a 30" bling wheel with an ultra low profile tire with an overall tire diameter of 35" as well. Now if the bolt pattern fits, you have similar offset so it wont rub, and the same OD... it will work. I can drive it... But when I try to hit the rocks or dirt, problems will arise. There are MANY different aspects to a sub and how it reacts in the same enclosure with power. Its all of these other things, suspension, impedance rise, Q values, and on and on that will determine how well things will work together. My answer is if you want to build a dual chamber box that seems optimal for either sub, then put both in and wire them separately to try them 1 at a time to see which you like better... then pull the other out and replace it with what you prefered. Doing this simply to see which sounds/works better for your application is fine. But I wouldnt run them at the same time. Odd things happen with different back EMF screwing with eachother at different frequencies as well as with the amp. Its simply not good practice. Will it work? Yes. Should you do it? No. Thanks, Scott

After having read through all of this... Im not saying what the RF tech said is incorrect, but it isnt telling the whole story either. Just because a driver is the same size, same nominal impedance, and in separate but equal enclosures/chambers, does not mean it will work properly or optimally. Yes, it will work. But not as good as it could. To me it is like taking a 35" tire off my jeep (15" wheel with a 35" off road tire) and replacing it with a 30" bling wheel with an ultra low profile tire with an overall tire diameter of 35" as well. Now if the bolt pattern fits, you have similar offset so it wont rub, and the same OD... it will work. I can drive it... But when I try to hit the rocks or dirt, problems will arise. There are MANY different aspects to a sub and how it reacts in the same enclosure with power. Its all of these other things, suspension, impedance rise, Q values, and on and on that will determine how well things will work together. My answer is if you want to build a dual chamber box that seems optimal for either sub, then put both in and wire them separately to try them 1 at a time to see which you like better... then pull the other out and replace it with what you prefered. Doing this simply to see which sounds/works better for your application is fine. But I wouldnt run them at the same time. Odd things happen with different back EMF screwing with eachother at different frequencies as well as with the amp. Its simply not good practice. Will it work? Yes. Should you do it? No. Thanks, Scott

The surrounds are fairly similar. They are what I call a "mid" surround... not ultra skinny, but not a wide half roll either.

The surrounds are fairly similar. They are what I call a "mid" surround... not ultra skinny, but not a wide half roll either.

ARSENAL SPECS 10" D4 R 3.35 Ohms per coil (6.7 Ohms measured in series) Fs 33.8 Hz Qms 4.68 Qes .43 Qts .39 Mms 123 g Sd 310 cm^2 Vas 24.24 l SPL 85.2 1W/1m BL 20.2 Xmax 18mm RMS 500W 12" D4 Re 3.35 Ohms per coil (6.7 Ohms measured in series) Fs 28.1 Hz Qms 5.24 Qes .45 Qts .41 Mms 156 g SD 480 cm^2 Vas 66.27 l SPL 87.0 1W/1m BL 20.2 Xmax 18mm RMS 500 15" D4 Re 3.35 Ohms per coil (6.7 Ohms measured in series) Fs 27.1 Hz Qms 6.15 Qes .53 Qts .49 Mms 188 g Sd 810 cm^2 Vas 168.9 l SPL 89.9 1W/1m Bl 20.2 Xmax 18mm RMS 500W

Upgraded Assassin Series with the cast basket, reworked motor, and beefier coil. 250W RMS 16mm Xmax 8", 10", and 12" sizes Aresenal Series with upgraded triple stack motor and heavier aluminum coil. 500W RMS 19mm Xmax 10", 12", and 15" sizes Havoc Series with upgraded triple stack motor and long aluminum coil. 1250W RMS 30mm Xmax 12", 15", and 18" sizes Angled shot of all three lines together to show motor sizing. More pics and specs shortly.... Thanks, Scott