Fi Car Audio

Posting the email here just incase anyone else might have an issue and need to check things or test as well. With a battery (9-18V normally from a rechargeable battery or even from your car (but fuse it to be sure) you simply attach a positive lead from the battery to the positive of one coil of the sub. Then the negative of the battery and "touch" it to the negative side of the coil on the sub. This should make the cone move in a direction (normally out). Do this to the other side of the sub as well making sure to connect it correctly with respect to polarity. It should move the same direction. Then wire your sub up how it needs to be (either in series for a 4 Ohm load or parallel for a 1 Ohm load) and make sure that when you touch the leads to the battery that it moves correctly. If it does not move, you most likely have wired a coil out of phase... simply swap one the other way and try again. ***Please not that the leads need to be disconnected from the amp and that you are only touching to see it move, not connecting it for any period of time as it can damage the speaker and will damage the battery*** You can also use a multimeter set to resistance/Ohm setting to measure that the coils are OK. Cross the leads out on the meter shorting them and make note of what the meter reads (should be 0 but many read some internal resistance as well). The check each coil (D2 reads approx 1.5 Ohms). Subtract the initial reading from what it reads when hooked to the sub. If it is close, its fine. Also check to see if you push EVENLY in the center of the sub to make sure that there are no noise or rubbing or anything odd... Please let me know a little more about the setup as well as it could be a settings situation. Ported, sealed, amp settings, subsonic filter levels (if ported). We will get it solved. Thanks, Scott

Congrats!!! What did you end up hitting?

Please send me an email to [email protected] with your zipcode and that its for a XXX15 (I have D1 and @ coils) and I can get you a quote for either the kit or the sub shipped back to you. Thanks, Scott

Are you going to be running just the one amp then to a pair? If thats the case, then the SSDs would work well. But, as with the RF amps (and Kickers) they dont have an adjustable subsonic filter and are set at 28 Hz at 12 dB/oct which is far to low and shallow tuned that high. I would recommend getting an add on filter (even the $35 Harrison Fmods that are adjustable set to 35 Hz would help greatly) for any sub combination with those amps. 12 dB and 10 Hz off is too far to be good. Please let me know if I can help with anything else. Thanks Scott

Quite a few people on here have Q15s sealed, but Bryan C in FL seems to have the most experience with a pair of them. He has turned some amazing numbers in dB Drag as well (for a sealed SQ setup in a G35). Hopefully he can chime in. We have quite a few SQ people running them (and a few from the Buwalada/Hybrid camp in both sealed an IB). People seem to like them sealed.

Stainless are good (thats what we use as they are harder and allow us to torque things down better). Good stainless screws are not magnetic either... cheaper ones are. But even at that, its no issue at all (or steel for that matter).

Do you have a multimeter? In all honesty it sounds like it is wired out of phase between the coils. You can pop test the coils (first individually) with a battery checking polarity and making sure that they move/pop the same direction with respect to that. Then wire it back up (with it not attached to the amp) and pop them again to make sure that they move the same way. If it does not move, reverse one set of leads and check again. A multimeter will tell quite a bit too. Is it a ported enclosure? If so whats it tuned to and what amp do you have (does it have a subsonic filter, and whats it set to as well?) Its hard to tell what the problem is without being there to track it down. But we will work through it and get it figured out. Thanks, Scott

Please send me pics of it to [email protected]. As Im not usually building the subs (setting coils and maching all parts now) so I dont see everything that gets finished. My guys are always really good about parts selection, but I do have two new/newer people that might not know or pay as much attention as my other lifers do. If you arent as concerned about the cosmetic side of things, Id run it as is. If it ever becomes a problem Ill gladly send a free kit out to replace it or you can send it it for us to recone. So... I guess that means if you ever get a wild hair and decide to beat it to death, you have a get out of jail free card Send an email so I can keep track of it for future reference.

Let us know your box and set up when its going... and pics for everyone if you can Thanks for the order.

Yes they are. They fit the "smaller" 8awg with a good twist to them, but some of the "bigger" 8s you will need to trim a little off the OD.

Got a bunch built and will talk to SSA about getting them up for Monday

Thanks for the order. Please keep us posted as to how it sounds (and how much it makes the Mercedes sag in the back from the weight )

We can get it fairly close, and it will look rather close if you stick the other dustcap Ill provide over the original. The cones and surrounds are similar, although I am using parts I prefer and find to be better and more durable overall.

Its in my sent file... Ill forward it again.

I think I got back to you yesterday regarding this one. If I havent email again to [email protected] or post here with your email. We will get you taken care of ASAP. Thanks, Scott

Aw heck... Ill do it Send an email to [email protected] with "GASKET ATTN SCOTT" as the subject with your address and Ill let you know the total for it. Thanks, Scott

Should be fine for that. You are running the two opposite sides of things for most people. Ported-rap, sealed- tighter kicks and double bass. Im sure there will be a few people on here that have similar taste and can give you their recommendations.

Burps is a VERY different thing than daily... I could see 10k in the right setup. 1000W for a standard BL with pole chamfer and daily tolerences is fine. No need to add flatwind or cooling if you are going to leave the power at that. Should make for a solid daily setup with good SPL to it depending on how its tuned... but maintain a good sound as well. Thanks, Scott

I have done quite a few. It should be a older short TC9ish motor. A couple different coils we an use in there and tweak it for different applications. Thanks, Scott

Pics of the system...

I have no idea... I dont pay too much attention to other companies, but they do look Chinese. Id have to have it in hand to measure and see if it can be recone or tweaked. Thanks, Scott

Almond... do you have the ultra secret hotline number? If not, please email and Ill give it to you. Itd be easier going over things via phone (and no... he wont give it to anyone else even if you bribe him!)

Back at you Carl Dom... let me know when they get in.

Does look like BP with the aluminum in the pole. Let us know how it sounds when its running Thanks, Scott

A simple stringer across the port will help or even a 2X4 from the front baffle to the port board as centered as you can get it. Design looks fine as does the size and tuning. Thanks, Scott