Fi Car Audio

From the old AA site, Chad recommended 2 cuft sealed for the original Arsenal 15s. (Found it with the help of the internet "way back machine")

Got some info on the other post you had... but basically with 4 cuft before displacement I would look to using 2 3" aeroports side firing to the drivers side with 4"-6" of clearance to the side of the cab... tune 35 or so and youll be good for a clean deep setup. I noticed that you mentioned tuning to 45 Hz with your 8s. You can do that with these as well if you dont mind the peaky response (it will gain you in the 45-70 range over the lower tuning). You could use a pair of 4" aero ports of the same length as the 35 Hz versions too...

I have done a few standard cab setups with 8s 10s and 12s... seems that most of them like the port exiting the drivers side with 4-6" of space between the side firing port and the side wall of the cab. Given that you are at 4 cuft before displacement, Id look to a pair of 3" Aeorports. Theyll maximize airflow and minimize the space requirements. New subs will play with higher tunings as well (all subs will) but givent the space and setup, Id probably tune to 35 hz or so for some depth to things... that is unless you really enjoy a higher tuned peakier setup... just be sure to set the subsonic filters accordingly. Thanks, Scott

Wow... not sure what is going on either... nor will I simply chalk it up to the dealers install being poor (dont know if thats the case or not). I know what the subs can do in the proper setup, and they are rather capable for 8s. Please send an email to [email protected] and I can get your phone and contact info. Let me know when would be a good time to call and I can go over a few things with you. Thanks, Scott

No copper coils on the BTLs. All coils for the BTLs are aluminum. Copper would have too much weight with the coil size we use, and still wouldnt yield the specs I would want. The "Fully Loaded" version which is what many consider the best... consists of the 3rd magnet, full cooling (which includes the pole chamfer), and the high Xmax coil. The SPL option is only for full on SPL only applications. We do not do it for fully loaded versions. And dont let the name fool you. The SPL option isnt always louder either. We have found that most daily and lower powered SPL applications benefit from the slight decrease in motor strength... and some ultra higher power SPL applications benefit from the increase tolerences when coils swell and want to lock up. Please let me know if I can help/confuse anything else Thanks, Scott

What they said...lol I definitely see it being in the realm of reality with those numbers. Depends on how you go about doing it as well. My feeling on bassrace is that it should be tuned low (sub 40 Hz) and produces some real "bass". But more and more people are tuning up to the highest peak they have and running there. This is why we are starting to see more and more super street and now extreme vehicles stepping up to Bass race. Something wrong to me about that. End rant...lol If you tune low, it will be harder to turn a higher number, but it will "pound" hard and be more impressive in general. A 145 at 30Hz is MUCH more violent than a 145 at 60 Hz. But a 150 at a higher peak (say 55-60) will be easier to do. Thanks, Scott

Well... while it would be a problem, I wouldnt say that it is this problem. That would lead to the coil rubbing through due to the tight toplate/coil OD tolerences than normal. But when that becomes the problem, the outer coil will open and it wont work... it wont be a "sometimes" problem. It still sounds like an amp issue to me. It could simply be that the impedance rise for this setup isnt enough for the amp and something goes awry. If youd like to send the sub in we can check it out, but Id rather exaust all other outlets before that. It is far from cheap to send one to us... and Id hate for everything to be OK on it and find the issue elsewhere. Can you repeatably make it do this? If so, hook a multimeter to it and see if the amp is still making power when it has the issue. If there is still the same AC voltage coming out of the amp when the sub shuts off... well then we know its the sub. But I have yet to see anything like that occur. Thanks, Scott

You will gain if you have a larger enclosure if you are still within the limits of the sub. Looks like going from 5.5 up to 8 cuft per sub will net you 1.2-2 dB in the 35-50 range. If that is a worthwhile difference, then cool. Not night and day. But have you noticed the subs softening up much from new? There is a decent amount of suspension to break in. Most people seem to think that they get louder as they soften up...

OK... found it. The order says Daily, build list says daily, UPS label says "FL" which is fully loaded and would therefor exclude the "SPL" tolerences. I am 99.9% sure that it is a daily sub. I know for a fact I havent machined any SPL cooled poles in a LONG time. Simply so few people need them (2 people I can ever remember doing them for and that was 10+ months ago). Ill check with those that would have been involved with its build (for what thats worth I doubt they will remember it specifically as we do quite a few of them).... but Id rest assured that it is a daily version. Sorry for the confusion...

What are the basic dimensions he has to work with for an enclosure? Im sure its rather shallow... Id rather see a couple of 12s with that amp versus a single 1. Pair of BLs would work if you have the space...

Yes we tweak Qs for IB home use all the time, and for some of the SQ car guys (like the Buwalda/Hybrid team). We can tailor things for the application... but as someone else mentioned it might not be a true IB setup... depends on the space. Simply might end up being a really large sealed enclosure. Either way, if you can give me some rough dims for space I can come up with something. As with all IB setups, displacement is king and Id go the largest driver size you can fit. Thanks, Scott

What Nick said ^^^^ There are so many subs out there and different versions of the same thing made over the years. I often dont know what I can recone until I get things in and measure. Often a Chinese made driver I cant. They use weird sized coils. At the same time, if you bought the sub for $49 from a local dealer, it definitely isnt worth reconing either. 9/10 US made subs we can recone. US made SPL subs I cant think of too many we cant. Only two I can think of I cant... Crossfire XT and one version of the Treo SSX (I think thats the model as it has an ultra tight odd sized coil... unless they only run less than .010" on it and then I wouldnt want to recone it as thats too tight anyway)

A pair of Qs in the proper sized enclosure will be louder under daily driving situations than a single BTL12 with similar power. Most liekly subs and ports back. Seems to work best in most trunk cars. Thanks, Scott

2.25" is a no go. Not a common size at all. Sorry...

Yes you can send it in for repair, but 9/10 a tinsel on a BTL is not too much power, but not having the subsonic set correct for the tuning of the system. Overexcursion is what will get those leads... not the power you have. We have people running quite a bit more than that (not that this is a stamp of approval to do so) and never have issues at all. I cant stress setting subsonic filters enough for high powered setups. You can send it in to: Fi Car Audio Attn: Warranty 5480 Cameron St #107 Las Vegas NV 89118 Id say itll be a shipping only deal. We can simply replace the lead at no charge if you cover shipping. Be sure to include a sheet of paper with your name, address, phone, and email to expedite the process. Thanks. Scott

Looks good, well built box. Lot of suspension on them fresh out of the box. 1 more spider than an MT has...

Yep, right at about 30 lbs when packed.

$95 each plus shipping for the flatwind setup (which I believe yours are). As for reconing from a D1 to a D2, it depends on if you have the universal setup. There isnt much of a difference on the BLs either way and I do have a D2 that would fit in the D1 gap regardless. Shipping would be $13 for the pair to either zip. Thanks, Scott

Got an email to you... thanks

With the 2006D it makes max power into 1 Ohm. You would need to order the dual 2 Ohm sub, then wire both coils in parallel. This will net you a 1 Ohm load for the amp. Parallel is simply running positive of one coil to the positive of the other, and negative of one coil to the negative of the other. Please let me know if I can help with anything else. Thanks, Scott

Done and shipped. I believe it went via USPS 2 day, but Ill have to look when I get into the office in the morning.

Both have a fair amount of crossover between them. Do you have an amp selected already? IS this going to be ported or sealed?

BTLs seem to do alright given what you are going for... not sure about the others as I have no experience with them (and Id probably be a little biased as it is...lol) Im sure others will pop in with experience soon enough.

Hmmm... not sure what is going on there. We will not make a high Xmax 3 magnet BTL with the SPL motor tolerences. The coil is simply too long to work properly with that. I know I didnt machine one, nor would I. I am sure that someone simply marked that by mistake on the label. As for the coils, that is indeed the high Xmax coil. They are aluminum round wire and not copper, although they are copper colored (this is the color of the enamel on the wire and not the wire itself). Ill check all the email and spam filters to see if I can find one from you. Im not sure your real name and we move quite a few BTLs so not sure where to begin there... give me a little bit and Ill see if I can find your order or who you are. Thanks, Scott

As it is a 24dB/Oct filter I would set it 28 Hz or so. This should give you good coverage below tuning. Without an scope it is difficult to tell exactly where on the dial that is though... You simply want to keep the sub from moving too far mechanically under tuning. So if you feel or hear issues, turn it up a little higher, if not... good Please keep us posted on how it sounds. Thanks, Scott