Scheibler

So i got a new clutch/flywheel put in my car. My mechanic put my old parts in my trunk which i forgot about. My sub doesn't have a grill and that box full of parts broke the 10" ssa dcon rubber surround and even the cone. I tried using silicone, but the sub sounds like crap! Can i get a new cone and rubber or should i start looking for a new 10"?

The rubber outside the cone it torn and the cone is also torn from the rubber and has paper pieces missing. Any idea how much a recone is? Probly isn't worth it with shipping

I've got a used SSA DCON 10" and alpine mrp-m350 amp. The amp is hooked up to a line out conerter tapped into my rear speakers with the amp recieving power. The sub is wired in parallel and is a dvc 4ohm sub so the amp's output is going to be 2ohms. I've got both sub terminals, negative to negative and positive to positive. The wire connecting the box is connected to ONE terminal...that is correct right? I've checked all the wires again and again yet can't get the sub to do anything. I changed grounds to no avail. I bought a used sub off a member on caraudio.com (lil98cabrio) and am starting to think it's blown, but don't have another sub to test. Is there a way to test the sub or amp with a dmm?

did the ipod trick. Sub and amp work. It must be the LOC.

well figured it out. Amp is powering on just fine now. Problem is i can't get the LOC to send RCA signals like it should. I got the sub working using the ipod connected to an rca output. Dunno what I'm going to do about this loc....maybe its broke! I've hooked it up every which way

I'm trying to hook up my amp/subs to my factory bose radio in my 91 Legend. I've got an ssa dcon 10", alpine mrp-m350, knukonceptz 8-gauge wiring kit, and pac soem-t speaker to rca converter. I've tapped the rear speakers correctly and cannot get the amp to power on at all! I've tried different ground points. I'm connecting the blue wire from the pac loc converter to my amps remote connector b/c the pac says that is built in remote. The yellow wire which teh pac says to connect to a 12v constant source is connected to my bose amp power line from the headunit. Do I need to run a seperate remote line or find a different 12v source? I'de just buy a whole new headunit, but my bose speakers run at 2ohm instead of normal headunits 4ohm. I can't seem to find a 4-pin speaker level harness anywhere locally and really don't want to wait on shipping even further. Btw, I blew the fuse on the power line b/c I dropped the wire on the amp while it was grounded. I checked the fuses on the amp and they were fine...do you think I blew the amp? I replaced the 50amp agu fuse from knukonceptz with a 60amp fuse from radioshack

lol yea. only reason i bought the amplifier is b/c its worth nearly double what I paid for it

guess I'll need to buy a 3.5mm jack to rca cables though to see if its the LOC.

No what I did was buy another amp! Same problem

haha yea. Was going just leave it in one, but didn't know this forum doesn't have near as much traffic as some others. Wish you could edit the title

Lol well I got the amp to power on. But now I can't get the sub to do anything. Even went out and bought another amp(a JL Audio 500/1) b/c i got it for $100 off some guy who bought a car with it and didn't want it. Same thing as the alpine....nothings happening with the amp. Think I'm going to have to order a 4-pin speaker level harness for the alpine amp cause I can't figure out this LOC. Probly will just sell the JL Audio 500/1 for a profit since it doesn't have speaker level inputs. Boy does that amp feel like quality though! Weighs a ton and feels high quality Any ideas whats going on here? LOC has 5 wires going into it. 4(1 for each speaker's + , -) and 1 for an optional ground Then on the other side of the LOC it has 2 RCA's with a ground wire inbetween. A blue wire for remote, yellow for 12v, and black/blue for chassis ground. I couldn't get the LOC to power the amp on so I just used a seperate speaker wire and ran it to my bose amp 12v remote. Now I've just got the blue wire and yellow wire hanging there and all the grounds grounded

Got a killer deal on a JL Audio 500/1 for $100. It's doing the same thing as the alpine mrp-m350. Will power on, but the sub doesn't do anything. Wonder if my LOC is wired wrong or the sub is blown?

I've seen the amp working before this setup...was pushing two twelves

The amp light is on. I've grounded the LOC. It actually has three grounds on it which is pretty confusing, a 12v constant yellow wire, and blue remote wire. I couldn't get the lock to work by connecting the yellow wire to my bose 12v source or the blue wire to work as a remote. I got the amp to turn on by running speaker wire directly to the power wire on my stock bose amp Wish I could just find one of those 4-pin speaker level harnesses to see if it's the LOC connection being messed up or if it's broke in general

I checked the ohms on the subs. Both terminals rrad just over 2 which is correct. Maybe the line out converter is somehow hooked up wrong? Hate those stupid things. Shoulda juat bought a line level harness for direct tap

it was an accident and thats what I'm asking. Dunno if that could of fried the amp or if it is just a user error wiring up the pac

Ive got an alpine mrp m350 amp that does 350 watts @ 2 ohm and a 4 ohm dvc ssa dcon 10". Im trying to run the sub at around 300-350 watts in parallel at 2 ohms. I want to accurately set my gain and found the equation that you are suppossed to use to find the optimal volts. Voltage = sqrt(rms x impedence) So is this what i would do for my 4 ohm dvc woofer? Voltage = sqrt(300x4ohm) Voltage = sqrt(1,200) Voltage = 35 Or is it this since im running the amp at 2 ohm to a 4 ohm dvc woofer Voltage = sqrt(300x2 ohm) Voltage = sqrt(600) Voltage = 24.5

Ok. Just didnt want to damage the sub by clipping it with too much power

I heard by ear is a guestimate?