lonelyprince24

ok will do. i am working on a ported one now and will post my results that i came up with if you will look at them that would be great. thanks again

okie dokie!!!! Wheres a good place to learn this? Cuz usually i just use this site http://dbdynamixaudio.com/category/calculators/ So are fourth orders generally for suvs and hatch backs? So what would be my best application since its in a trunk? Was Gonna try a labyrinth style.

Ok maybe i didnt write this up correctly--- according to what i was told and what i have read that the specs say 3-5 cubes for 4th order reflex enclosure. Now if that is the case then if my ported part is 5 cubes, then my sealed will be 2.5 cubes? or is that totally incorrect? and i read posted on ssa somewhere that Fi said that Sp4 works best in a 4th order enclosure. Sorry Im not trying to get anyone into any arguments, just what i read. If you have personal experience with the SP4 then any sort of positive input would be helpful. Thank You So what ive asked about is a bandpass box? so then i guess i dont understand the difference between a regular ported enclosure and a 4th order enclosure. I thought all 4th orders were bandpass. So whats the difference? and how can i get the most out of my sub? Thanks again

I just purchased a 15" sp4 d1 with all the bells and whistles. Now i have read that it is best in a 4th order enclosure. In the Fi specs it states its 3-5 cubes in 4th order enclosure. Now my question is then since im a newbie at 4th order. Is this correct: ported side 5 cubes so sealed side has to be half that so 2.5/2.71(counting woofer displacement) or should the motor be in the ported side? and what do i have to tune the ported side to? what is the best tuning for this sub? This is going in a 2012 chrysler 300. I will be running a kicker zx2500.1 at 2 ohms (that should be enough power right?) . My buddy said 65 herts so is that correct? I listen to alot of dubstep and rap kind of music. i had figured 2.18 and 4.36 for cubes? is that too small? will closer to 5 be better? Also had a question about round ports, is it better to have less larger ports or more smaller ports or is that all depending on dimensions? Sorry if i sound like a fool. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also does anyone know how long after you order does it usually take to get your sub? Thanks ahead of time!!

true true. thanks

Thought so- thanks for the fast reply. much appreciated.

So i've decided to go with the 18" BTL N2, but was wondering if i should get the cooling option or just the p chamfer because in the tech area it says getting the cooling will weaken the metal- what do you guys suggest i do- im getting all other options. Its going to be for everyday play. Thanks in advance.

It's optional, you don't have to. THanks. so i was also wondering if i should go with the p chamfer option or the cooling which includes it, cuz it says it weakens it.

but i dont have to run a negative all the way back? ive heard both ways.?

That's definitely not going to cut it if you plan on running 2500 watts. The amp will get past the alternator voltage and go down to batt voltage pretty easily. So if you're wanting to limit voltage drop, you either need to beef up your alt or get a couple of batts to put near the amp. If you run that amp hard with the kind of electrical, I can easily see you dipping down to the 10's. how do you wire them? was also wondering bout the port measurements

I have a 140 alt and a yellow top battery.

27 deep (hatch to seat) X 42 (side to side X 18 high( floor to window) I'd post a pic but dont know how

nice. they do bump pretty hard but they are dual 4s so i only get like 6 apiece. there are just so many options with these fi its just deciding what to get. Tough tough.

We don't like your kind around here. My KIND? What curious music lovers? What KIND do you like then? Thanks for wasting my time.

I think everyone fed off your comment- i was in no way being a dick. Just very creative.