ctmaudi

First time sound deadening. Doing the front doors, rear deck, trunk, and trunk lid of an 07 Altima. Got CLD tiles, MLV, CCF, and EBR from SDS. Did the trunk lid, top of rear deck, and the front doors so far (only half way done with the doors). Been taking pics along the way. Trunk lid, Top of rear deck, Doors, Speakers, Everything look good so far?

Youll probably need to upgrade your electrical a little bit, I have an 07 Altima with a 110amp alt, and had to do 1/0 Big 3 and a Kinetik HC600 to handle 1kw. I would vote for the SA, or to give AudioQue a shot. Im thinking of trying out AQ next.

All my previous boxes were straight and L ports. This one with aeros just didnt seem to sound as good as the previous box my SAs were in, but it fits better in my trunk. Seems like they stuggle more under 30Hz, and this box is tuned to 31/32, and the other was tuned to 36. Would it be the same to build a box for one of my SAs to find the best location, before I buy the DCON? Depending on location, I might be able to fit a 15.

Im strongly considering a 12in DCON S4 for my daily driver. My SA-10s are going to be moved to my Sonoma when its running, and I want to try something different for my daily (07 Altima). Ill get a Crescendo 1000C4 and bridge the rear channels for the sub, having 500rms on tap for it. I listen to mostly rock and techno, very little rap. I like to have more mid bass then really low end, but still would want it to get pretty low. Id like to have the LPF crossed about 100-120Hz. Most of all, I want as even an output across the widest range possible. Looking for more of an SQ setup. I dont care some much for loud bass, as I do air moving bass if that makes sense. I like to feel it moving my hair and kicking the seet. The max length I can have the box is 31.25in, and the max height is 15in. Ive got plenty of depth, but want to stay under 15in. Ive never made a box before, but I dont think Id have much issue throwing a simple design together. The sub displacement is .14cu, and I plan to put 45s in each corner which is another .14cu. The sealed box I figured would be 18in wide, 15in high, 11.25 deep with double baffle, totaling 1.16cu, leaving .88cu after sub and bracing. The ported would be 31.25in long, 15in high, 14.25in deep with double baffle. That comes to 2.79cu, and would have the sub mounted facing either the back seat or the trunk, and a straight port to the side facing the quarter panels, 25in long, 13.5in high, 3in wide, for 36hz and .586cu, leaving a total 1.924cu left. Did I figure all that right? I used http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxcalcs.asp for all the calculations. Having the extra space with the sealed would be nice, but either box would work. Whichever would sound better or be much louder, then thats what Ill go with. I like to leave headroom with the amp, so I wouldnt run more then 400rms.

My current box has 2 3in aeros, and I dont really like it as much as an L or straight port. I think I can change the dimensions though, because Ive always had the subs pushed up against the back seat firing in to the cabin. Read an article saying as close to the back end of the trunk firing toward the trunk is best. Im kind of thinking of making a sealed box, since it would be the first one I made myself, and would be easier to move around and test the best locations. Then when I know the best way to face it for my car, design a ported box for it. Would a sealed box need 45s in the corners, or any other bracing?

Dang, didnt know. Im sure Ill change them out when the new Crescendo comps come in anyway. Ive got a lot of left over butyl rope I could use. Also, the doors only took 5 tiles each instead of 7. I may have still went a little overkill too.

Not sure of the actual area you have to work with, but you will want to port the Dcon. Its above, 31.25 wide, 15 tall, and up to 16 deep, but would prefer around 14. If I did 31.25x15x14.25 with double baffle (what I had figured above), thats 2.789cu before sub/bracing and port. Not sure how to figure port length when doing an L port. Going by the 12volt.com calculator, for 30Hz and 2.5 port width, Id need 31in long port if you use 2.789cu, or 35in if you take in to account for the sub and bracing first (2.509).

It doesnt detect clipping or distortion. Say you have an amp rated at 1200wrms @14.4volts, but its either underrated or you have voltage drop. If you still setup the amp to output 1200wrms at but instantly drop to 13 volts on the burp, youd get clipping. Yes it is possible, clipping in from the HU when it is set too high or from the recording itself. I should have added more detail. If its a quality amp that does rated, and your electrical is strong, and only go about 60% on the HU, can you still clip if set with a DMM? The amp I have is rated at 13.8v, the lowest my volts have dropped to is 13.7. My HU is set to 22 out of 35 volume. And I used a -3Db 55Hz tone to 44.7v. I then checked from 24hz-35hz in 1hz jumps, then 35hz-100hz in 5hz jumps, and it never went over 46v.

What is wrong with just using a dmm? I have a 1200w amp, and set it for 1000w (44.7v @ 2ohm) since there is no noticable difference. Is it even possible to clip if you arent over powering?

For a couple days I only had the passanger door done. I litteraly could not even hear anything from the driver door there was such a difference. Now that both are done, it sounds very even and clear. Im only running about 30w to the comps so far too. The white stuff is clay, gives an air tight seal around the speaker. The cut out in my door isnt flat, and the wooden rings arent cut perfect, so I wrapped them in clay. Ive seen it done in a few other install guides. When I didnt have time to do the driver door, I didnt have the clay around the spacer, and certain notes sounded scratchy. Not sure if it was because the door wasnt done, or from not having a good seal with the spacer. I cant tell much difference from the trunk lid or rear deck though. And when I did the rear deck, I broke a couple clips so it rattles more. I need to fill in some CCF back there.

I finally got my comps hooked up today, and the mid bass on them is pretty darn good, much better then I expected. Though I think one of the speakers has a defect, cant tell since I didnt really install that door right, or sound deadend that one yet. Anyway, what would be better between sealed and 30hz ported? With the size I have to work with, 30hz would require over 38in port length, and the box is only 31.25 wide (29.75in to reach the side wall). If I went with a 2.5in port, thats still over 31in.

Just the Crescendo CCX65 comps up front. My HU can do 24Db octaves on the high and low pass filters. Ive been using the high at 100Hz 12db, and the low either the same, or at 120Hz 24Db.

I vote the SAs as well. Ive ran them with as little as 250w each and they got loud. With 1Kw, thats about more then most people would need or want in a daily driver. Asuming the box is right.

I have the same car. You can fit a box 31.25" L X 15" H, and pretty much deep as you want. Mine is 16" deep so I still have some good trunk space. Over 17" of space left. If you go any taller, or wider, you wont be able to push it in all the way. I have 2 SA-10s, had to go with aeros do to the space limitation. Sad to say, this car isnt the best for audio though. Lots of bad rattles, and doesnt really seem to get loud. I went from a 2010 Rogue to it, and there is a huge difference. I honestly think its better to try to go with a lower power, more SQ setup with the car, since it just cant really get that loud.

You can get cheap ebay ones that will make people hate you for about $40. You can get decent ones for under $100, or you can spend more for "name brand" ones. Its just like just about anything else, you get what you pay for, but you dont have to shell out the most to get quality. Also, I dont suggest 8k if you are looking for more light output. 4300k is as bright as you can get, after that they let off less light, but change color from blue to purple. 5000k is what Id recomend. Just make sure you get projectors if your car doesnt come with them, but being an 08 BMW, I think it would. That way you dont blind other drivers.

My amp has two settings Ive never seen before. One is Bass EQ, Im guessing thats just another name for bass boost? The other is Bass Focus. I always keep bass boost off, so I just left those down all the way. Anyone know what they do, or if I should even mess with them? I have bass boost level 1 and Sub +5db on the HU (KDC-X794). Also, Ive never had an amp with a bass nob before. Does that change the gain, or bass boost of the amp?

I have a Cadence ZRS-C65 with two SA-10 D2s. When setting the gain, do I go by the impedance the subs are wired to (2ohm), or what they actually measure at when I test the wires with a DMM (2.7ohm)? Also, when voltage drops does the power drop, or does the amp draw more to keep power where it should be? My electrical isnt up to par at the moment (all stock), so I sit 13.8v idle, and drop to high 12s when the amp reads ~30v. So if thats 450w at 2ohm, which would be 32amps if it stayed at 13.8v. Since it doesnt, and drops to about 12.8v, does that mean it draws 35amps instead to make the 450w, or does it continue to draw 32amps and only put out 410w? And when figuring efficiency, thats added to what its sending out correct? So if an amp is 1000w and 80% efficient, it takes 1200w from the charging system, and produces the 1000w to the speakers right? Trying to figure if Ill need a HO alt, or if battery upgrades will be enough. Only going to push 1000w to the subs, and 200w to front stage. 110amp stock alt, 2007 Nissan Altima 2.5S. The cheapest HO alt for my car is $500, which I really dont want to have to spend lol.

I feel like a huge idiot right now. It was dark out when I first set my amp up, and it was pushed far back in the trunk. I thought the LPF was from 30hz-250hz, it was 50hz-250hz. I had it set too high. Set it correctly to the 80-90Hz range, and I also didnt have the HU up high enough. For some reason I thought it only went to 30, but it goes to 35. So I was using volume at 23 instead of 28. I set the HPF for the fronts to 90Hz and the LPF on the HU for the sub to 90Hz. Now its set to 34v, idles 13.88, drops to 13.5 or so. With max AC and brights on, sits about 13.7, drops to 13.35. Gains are about 2/3 of the way up instead of 3/4 like they were. Once I get the battery and big 3 done, Ill try to get the 1000w Im aiming for, and add in the 4chan. Got to fix some trunk rattles too.

Stock 07 Altima 2.5s, 110amp alt, stock 550CCA battery. Both were tested yesterday by the dealership to be fine. The battery produced 536CCA and voltage is 12.44. No load 13.85V, loaded 13.7V, 43mV ripple. Using 1/0 kicker hyper flex from battery back to amp, 300amp fuse ~8in from battery. 1/0 kicker for ground, not the best ground but not that bad either, its a bolt under the rear bench seat. Going to change it when I get in there to take the rear speakers out and build a shelf under the rear deck. Subs and remote are wired with 8awg wire. Used a 60Hz -3db test tone, measured a little over 30v so far. Not using the 4chan I have yet (DSC-480), waiting for my comps to get here. I am going up to knu in a bit to pick up wire for Big 3 and some other stuff. I should have gotten an HC600 today, but the guy messed up the shipment and have to wait for it to be resent.

Hi all at SSA. Recently got a new car, and making some audio changes. I was leasing a 2010 Rogue that I put RSD coaxs in, and a Planet Audio P2250D powering two SA-10s. Got out of the lease, and in to an 07 Altima 2.5s. Big difference going from an open enviroment back to a trunk. Still have the SA-10s, now using a Cadence ZRS-C65 since the PA blew some mosfets. Switching the coaxs for comps powered by a DSC480. Anyway, Im sure Ill have some questions along the way, and will share what I can as things are done. Not sure what else to add here in an intro thread.

Was looking at Sundown stuff, was inevitable.