pervitizm

The box is for a pair of DC Level 4 18's in the back of a 2007 Suburban with all seats in, including the third row.I have the following for outer dimensions to work with: 27 x 49 x27 Now my drawing shows a height of 26 1/2, but I'm only counting the height at 25 3/4 in the Box Calc program because the top board was double baffled. I'm seeing a box tuning at 33hz. Here is my other design, this one is pretty much the same as the first except for both subs and port firing up. What do you guys think? Box Design: I think I still like the whole port and subs up design better. My current box is a dual chambered double slot ported box. Each chambered tunned to 32hz. Has anyone gone from running subs up/port back to subs up/port up and if so did you like the outcome of that change? I've always ran subs up/port back and don't want to go through the hasle of changing to subs&port up if my output will suffer.

I've posted this under Subwoofer/Enclosures section over on SMD but I figured I'd post it here as well since this is another DC sub forum. Any thoughts on what this could be? name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src=" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="295"></embed></object> "> name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src=" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="295"></embed></object>" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350">

Subs are about 11 months old although I've only had them playing for about 7 of those months. So the subs are seasoned sort of speak. I've notice this sound since I've had them but I always thought that it was the Autotek amp that I had on them. When I changed that out for the pair of kicker I have on them now and it was still doing the same thing that lead me to believe that the sub itself might be messed up.

Thanks for your help. I was confussed with the photo from the instructions. Cause it looks like I can go from the alt to the relay instead of the primary battery to the relay.

I just got it in the mail today and I want to intall in my 07 Suburban. Anyone here who has this install on they're tahoe/suburban, where did you mout these unit at? Did you mout it on the firewall, or did you mout it near the fuse box? Is there an easy accessory wire available under the hood that I could use to turn the isolator on/off? Also is there anything else I have to do special with this isolator since this is a newer truck? From the directions it looks like I'll go from the alterntor to the one of the isolator's hot lead. Then from the 2nd isolator hot lead to a fuse/relay switch, which will then go to the second battery. Does that sound about right? Then there are two smaller leads on the isolator, one for ground and the other for the accessory wire to know when to turn the relay on/off. Yeah I'm confussed just typing this, so if anyone out there can lend a helping hand....or reply I would be forever in your debt.

Its a Pacific Accessory Corporations PAC-200 Mobile Audio Relay and battery Isolator http://www.pac-audio.com/instructions/PAC-200.pdf This relay isolator is designed to prevent voltage drop on the second battery.

After seeking help from numerious forums..(ROE, Termpro, SSA, and SMD) I've narrowed down my box design to just two for my DC LvL4 18. I just do know which one I want to build. Should I go with box 1 or box 2 Box 1: Tuning is now looking right at around 33Hz. Box 2: Tunning is around 30Hz

I think I pretty much laid out my goals, which is box for pair of Lvl 4 18's tuned around 32hz with both subs and port firing upwards. I guess after reading my post above I really didn't clearly stated what I was looking for out of this post. What I wanted to know was did I do the tuning formula correctly? If I have that fomula correct then I can redesign the box to meet my tuning tuning needs. Daily driver that tuned for music mostly hip hop, rap and r&b. However I listen to a lot of different types of music so I want it to still sound okay if I play some old Duran Duran or Korn. It just that 90% of the music I listen to is hip hop, rap and r&b. The T/S parameters can be found by going here. According to the T/S the subs need around 5.75ft^3 of space per woofer. So I wanted my box to fall right around that with bracing accounted for. so I figure if I can get around 11.5 to 12ft^3 of internal air space then I should be straight. Yeah, it appears that most of the folks I've talked to on all the other forms have suggested that I go for the more traditional CRX style of enclousre. So I haven't rule that out totally. I'm in the process of redesigning again just to see what I can come up with. Doing this is a lot cheaper than buying MDF and getting the box all wrong.

I recently brought a pair of LvL 4 with LvL 5 coils to go with my single Autotek MM4000.1D amp. I want to put these subs in an 07 Chevy Suburban LT.The idea is to keep my third row seats. That was the main reason why I brought a suburban instead of a tahoe. So far this is what I've came up with. *Note all measurements are external* Height: 23 3/8 inches or 28 1/2 inches if I go up to top of headrest Width: 49 inches Depth: 28 3/4 inches I went to 12volt.com to use their volume calculator and it came out to roughly 15 cft of internal volume space. I want to go ported with the 18's and I want to go both subs and ports facing up as apposed to subs up and ports to the rear. So I created a couple different boxes using Sketchup and I used this box volume/port area thread on ROE to help me out with trying to figure out the tunning and port area. The first box I did was a single port in the center of the box between the two subs firing up. Box external measusrments are 24hx49wx26d. Both the top and bottom are double boarded. The port opening is 5wx24.5hx10d. The second box I made was one where it had two ports. One on each side of the subs. Again both the top and bottom were double boarded and the ports were 2.5wx24.5hx10d The third & forth boxs are ones I did based off of some help I got over on SMD. I also need to note that I've only used the tuning formula and other tips from here on box 3 and 4. This box has an 8wx24.5hx13d port, which is a single port off to the side of the box. While this box is more of a CRX style has a port 8wx21hx13d. Now here is what I came up with as far as tuning when I plugged in the numbers for both box 3 and 4. External 24Hx49Wx26D =17.7 f^3 Interneral (Before Displacement) = 14.14 f^3 21Hx47.5Wx24.5D Port Opening is 8 iches Wide and the depth is 13 inches Box 3 is 8Wx13Dx24.5H- port area is (8x24.5 = 196sqin) Displacement: (8.75x13x24.5)/1728 Box 4 is 8Wx13Dx21H - port area is (8x21=168sqin) Displacement8.75x13x21)/1728 Fb = 0.159*SQRT[(Av*(1.84*10^8)/(Vb*1728*[Lv+(.823*SQRT(Av))])] LV is the length of the port AV is your port area VB is your boxes internal volume(every displacement accounted for) Fb will be your tuning frequency once you work the formula through. Box 3 Fb = 0.159*SQRT[(196*(1.84*10^8)]/(14.14*1728*[13+(.823*SQRT(196))]) SQRT (196) = 14 10^8 =100000000 Box 3 Fb = 0.159*SQRT[(196*(1.84*100000000)]/(14.14*1728*[13+(.823*14)]) 0.823*14 = 11.522+13 =24.522 14.14*1728 =24433.92*24.522=599168.58624 Fb = 0.159*SQRT[(196*(1.84*100000000)]/599168.58624 1.84*100000000=184000000 184000000*196=36064000000 Fb = 0.159*SQRT[36064000000]/599168.58624 36064000000/599168.58624 = 60190.08 Fb = 0.159*SQRT(60190.08) SQRT(60190.08) = 245.336667 Fb = 0.159*245.336667 Fb = 39.008hz Box 4 Fb = 0.159*SQRT[(168*(1.84*10^8)]/(14.14*1728*[13+(.823*SQRT(168))]) SQRT(168) =12.9614814 Fb = 0.159*SQRT[(168*100000000)/(14.14*1728*[13+(0.823*12.9614814)])] Fb = 0.159*SQRT(16800000000)/261442.944 Fb=0.159*SQRT(64258.8) Fb= 0.159*253.493195 Fb = 40.305hz Sorry for such an loooonnnng post, but I want to make sure I have the whole port area and tuning formula down correctly. If this is so then I'll know what to do to make port adjustments. As you can see both box 3 and 4 if the numbers are right are tuned really high. I was shooting for more of a 32hz - 35hz range.

Great build so far. How big is your box?

Ok here we go. This is my third redention of this box. This time I did dual ports on the side of the box. I had to adjust the depth just a bit from 24 to 25.5 inches. Let me know what you guys think. I've got Monday off and I want to get my build on So my new numbers are 24H x 49W x 25.5D. Top and bottom are double 3/4 MDF while the front, back and sides are single 3/4 MDF. The ports are 2.5W x24D x 10H.

Okay so I took some measurements today just to see how much space I have to work with. The idea is to keep my third row seats. That was the main reason why I brought a suburban instead of a tahoe. So far this is what I've came up with. *Note all measurements are external* Height: 23 3/8 inches or 28 1/2 inches if I go up to top of headrest Width: 49 inches Depth: 28 3/4 inches I went to 12volt.com to use their volume calculator and it came out to roughly 15 cft of internal volume space. I want to go ported with the 18's and I want to go both subs and ports facing up as apposed to subs up and ports to the rear. You guys think this is do-able with the measurements I've posted?

Okay so I have to admit this was my first time using Google's SketchUp software and I'm hooked. By far way easy to do a drawing with rather than AutoCad. Anyway this is what I've come up with using the measurement that Wagonized gave me. I made an adjustment with the port though. I brought the port up to the top, extended it's width by 4 inches to 24inches and decreased the height to 10 inches. Let me know what you think?

How about this, using the design above I want to have the port firing from the top. I want the port to be the lenght(width) of the box. How would I re-calculate that so that the tuning would stay right around that 30 -35hz range? In other words when it comes to the measurement of the port it would be around this: width:46 x depth:5 x height?? I guess the key measurements for this is width because I want to try and keep the port opening as wide as the box, if that makes any sense.

Thank you for the idea. This will at least give me a starting point as to where I need to go. The reason why I wanted to go sub/port up was because I don't think I have enought space between the vent an my rear hatch door. At most if I were to use that box design I would have about 4 inches. I was told that I should have at least 6 -10 inches of space between the vent and the neares wall (or flat vertical surface) the vent faces.

Bump 40+ views and no replies FTL!

LOL....if you were to google dual alternators on 07 tahoe or suburban more than likely your gonna see one of my post. So until I find my answers I'll just keep asking. As for your question, this 07 is the new body style. And with this new truck comes new headaches too.

I have an 07 LT Suburban, which I believe has the 160amp alternator. I want to run a dual alternator system for my truck because I'm about to install a hi-powered audio system in the truck. I'm trying to find a kit that will allow me to keep my factory alt while running another 250 - 300 amp alt that will run independent from the factory system. So in theory the second alternator would only power the two additional batteries that will be in the truck. Nothing factory related would be power by the second alt. Anyone have any ideal? I'm open to all suggestions. However if someone here is already running dual alt and advice you could give me would be greatly appreciated.

I just recently got a pair of DC Level 4 18's for my 2007 Suburban. Now I want to try and focus on my front stage. I'm not looking for competition SQ here, just something that will be on par with the 18's until I turn the bass knob up. I'm mostly listen to rap and R&B, but I've been known to listen to all types of music. It common for me to listen to Project Pat and then turn around a play some Hall and Oats, or Phil Collins. That's just how I roll. It also doesn't help working with a co-worker who doesn't listen to music pass 1990. At first I was thinking about going with an active 3 way setup using some raw drivers from partsexpress.com. You know maybe a pair of Dayton 8 midbass drivers, Dayton 6.5 midranges and a pair of 1' dome tweeters. After thinking about it for some time now, I've decided that it would be too much work and time for me to do this while living in an apartment no less. So I've decided to scrape that ideal due to limited work area, time, budget, and equipment as the reason's why I don't want to go that route. So instead I'm thinking about doing something simple and not to over the top. I want to go with a nice 2 way for the front (6.5 for the doors and 1' tweeters for the A pillars), and a good pair of coaxials for the rear doors. I'm not gonna replace the pair of 4.5 in the rear pillars in the back of the truck (the bass from the subs will drown those out). Pretty much the speakers would be direct factory replacements. As of right now I have a budget of around $500 - $600 that I will have available for this part of my system. I've got a few ideals floating around that I wouldn't mind getting some feedback on. Option 1: Passive 2 way up front with coaxials for the rear and a decent 4 channel amp to power all six speakers. Option 2: Active 2 way up front that will be powered by the 4 channel amp and a pair of coaxials that will be powered by the factory amp Option 3: Coaxials for the front doors/coaxials for the rear doors all powered by the 4 channel amp. Leave the factory tweeters in place What do you guys think? As far as brands, I'm just as confussed. I've owned Kenwood, Polk, and Memphis before. I wouldn't mind going back with Memphis but the dealer who I use to get my Memphis gear from has gone out of business. I was thinking about trying something new like Diamond Audio, or even eD just to be different, but I want to make sure that whatever I pick it will be able to keep in line with the 18's. Sorry for the long post but I wouldn't post if I didn't need the help. If I were to go with option 2, I was thinking of something like this: midbass/midrange : Dayton Rs180-4 Tweeters: Tang Band 25-1166SJ 1" Neodymium Tweeter Now I would run these off a 4 channel amp, something like a Kicker ZX350.4. That would allow for around 30 - 60rms for each driver. What I'm not sure on is how I would setup the freq cutoffs just using the amp alone. From the reviews I've read the tang band would need to cut off at around 2.5khz, while the Dayton would be setup from 300Hz to 3khz. Does that sound right? Would it be good to go with bassblockers for both the tweeters and the woofer?

I'm getting the 360.1 not the 2. My mounting locations are as follows. Front doors will hold the woofers, A pillars will hold the tweeters, and the rear doors will hold additional woofers. My budget, including the 4 channel amp is around $500 to $600.

Thanks for your help. What I need to know is what can I do to make it better. Do I go up to a more powerful amp for the front end? I just can't belive that I can't get a decent sounding front stage using a 2 way system, while having a pair of 18's. Again I'm not looking for a $2k front stage.

Well the less subs is out of the question How efficient of a driver do I need in order to keep up with rap 85% of the time and every other type of music the other 15%? This whole font-stage is harder than I thought. So now that you know that I want to go with a 2 way system running off a 4 channel amp at lets say a 60 to 90 rms per channel. Singls will come from my Pioneer AVH5700 HU to a 360.1 out to the 4 channel, what efficient drivers would you go with?

If this was your issue what would you do?

I am a virgin when it comes to doing a fontstage so I guess that whole impedance and power handling gave it away Anyway, I was thinking of going with a RF 360.1 processor to handle all of my eqing/crossover along with the crossover of the 4 channel amp. Do I need to get an exteranl crossover along with the 360.1 as well?

As I had stated in my post I wanted to do a 3 way however I don't have the time or resources to do it the way I want to. So I'm looking for drivers that I can drop in the factory locations without much modifcation. I'm not looking for competition SQ I just want it good enough so that it won't be outdone by the 18's at moderate to low levels. Now when I turn the bass knob up on the subs I know that the subs will overbare on the highs. I had chosen the Tangband because of their power handling and the ohm load, which was 4ohm. If this becomes to much of an issue I'll just go with some known componets then. Maybe some Memphis M class or Polk Momo.