tommyk90

Going for a score like that, at that frequency range, a wall is pretty much going to be the only answer. Let me know when you want to build it.

Given the thicknesses of both materials, either would work fine. How big is the window going to be?

I've used the old sawdust and glue mix many times. No table saw FTL.

Actually, I would test it the way it is first, THEN start rounding corners over (one at a time). No sense in wasting time and money if it doesn't help anything.

I've pulled panels clean off that were "glued" together with liquid nails. Titebond forever. But if you are looking for a caulk type glue so it holds it's shape and doesn't drip everywhere, check out PL construction adhesive. Stuff is SUPER strong.

You might have to tear that box out and start over if you are looking to beat stier's old record. Good luck to ya.

2004 Honda 400ex that I barely ride. Golf (picture is a little outdated. got new hybrids, wedges, and putter) Used to play the drums, but haven't done that in years.

Where's the box at? If it's way in the back then thats not a bad score for such a big vehicle.

I'm sure nick is just as interested as I am.

If you are still looking for CA glue, find a hobby shop and buy some IC-2000.

tommy, your box is so small you don't need bracing I just started using threaded rod... much easier to deal with and a better solution than wood (due to air restrictions) I use 3/8 rod, with 1" fender washers works great so far, I have zero flex on my current box. I try and double up any panel that is larger than 18" in width or length.. Truth. Though the 15" box benefitted GREATLY from threaded rod. For some reason the score dropped almost a full db, put 2 pieces of threaded rod in it and the score jumped back up. It was flexing like mad apparently. Threaded rod didn't help on any of my single 10" boxes though.

The problem with concrete is it breaks down over time and can crumble. Most extreme guys use a resin and sand combo instead, but this is for crazy people who cut the roof open and fill the entire car up with it.

I try to minimize any internal bracing just so I can get the smoothest airflow possible. Granted not many people can get away with this because of space constrictions, but the first thing I always do is double up as many panels as I can. If that's not enough or possible then I go with threaded rod. Least intrusive inside the box and very high strength. Luckily I can get away with building small setups that get sick nasty loud, so tons of bracing isn't necessary.

Honestly I'm not really sure right now. I may get a little silly and put it in my home theater enclosure. The seXXX 10" I've had since 2003 is getting a little worn out. Oh I'm definitely going to try it in there at least for my own knowledge.

independence, lol Anyways, as stated, if you have a BEEFY electrical system it SHOULD be ok. However, I'll let jacob give you the final answer because I think he would know better than I would.

Oh snap I won something! Never won any contest before, whether online or in real life.

864

Colder is NOT always louder, just like everything else in SPL. I know of a few guys that actually run their HEATERS before being metered. One thing doesn't always work in every setup. Cold usually helps my score, but never more than a few tenths.

Seeing as the entire vehicle is concrete a foot thick and the windows are 4" thick plexi, it shouldn't be too surprising.

poop That is all

Just an FYI, that bondo work looks like complete ass, despite what you think. And if that thing isn't double layered all the way around, then it WILL fall apart eventually. On a side note, I haven't posted on this forum in probably a year, but I felt the need to post in this thread. That's what I think of the quality.

Maybe i'll see you at a show What part of indiana are you in? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I'm in Greenwood. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Hmm, south of indianapolis. I'm most certain there are shows in southern IN, as well as kentucky.

Maybe i'll see you at a show What part of indiana are you in?

Though you can still use that calculator, it does not work for this years pressure classes. The new classes are smaller (S1 used to be 0-750, now it is 0-500). Here's the new rules for '06 http://www.mecacaraudio.com/2006SPLRules/