sandt38

Awesome. A $7000 solitaire machine. Seth lol Mine has porn on it... that's why I got the larger screened Verus

Bummer, you have to be confused completely. That site is full of bullshit. Sorry Rofl. I see what you did there. Actually, I'm learning quite a bit and I honestly appreciate it. I don't plan on running any competitions or having a big dick contest, I just find value in promoting a brand such as Fi, regardless of the made in America part. I still enjoy the market and I think more people can benefit from the knowledge on this forum and from the workers at Fi like Nick, who takes the time to respond to customer inquires, no matter how juvenile the question.I moved my amp today, drilled it into the back of my fold down back seat so I can easily adjust the gain and monitor it's temps. It was hot, but not hot enough to burn me or make me pull my hand away. I need to get familiar with my equipment so I know what is acceptable heat wise. It should get better ambient cooling being in the cabin now as well. I have not yet adjusted the gain. I think I'm going to play my deepest bass song, adjust at my preferred listening volume and monitor temps over a few hours to see where I'm at. I've used this method on tens of subs before the DD-1 and only ever blew a pair of Visonik's back when I was 15. My last question, my head unit has 2 subwoofer options. One appears to be the general subwoofer level, which is +6. And then there's another subwoofer option in another setting where I have it at +6 as well. Should I just make both of these 0 and adjust gain only? Does the EQ crossover options such as vocal or xplod affect the woofer? One of the frequencies in the curve is 65Hz or so, but is that only for the mids/highs? Thanks again everyone. Zero everything. No bass boost, do not EQ to the + side, always attenuate (dial the EQ down).You claimed you were clipping the HU at 47 out of 50 and you have the sub outs dialed to +6? Bullshit. Not bullshit on you, but it is proof that the DD1 is a complete pile of shit. Not only that, but there is no way in hell an Xplod unit is clean to 94% of it's total output at 0... no way in hell. How is that proof that the dd-1 is shit? All having the sub level up on the ead unit is going to do is cause the amps gain to be set lower.My guess would be that his point was with a +6 setting the preamp output would reach it's limit earlier in the volume range than with a lower level setting, which is entirely true....that's why it's louder, it outputs higher voltage for a given volume setting, hence it's louder at a given volume setting.My only problem with the assumption is it all depends on how the circuit was designed. For example on the older Alpine units the sub level was labeled 0 to +15, but in reality the "+15" setting was actually just the full output and not an actual boost, or in other words it was actually the 0db setting. So although it was labeled 0 thru +15, it actually functioned as -15 to 0. So one would not expect an unreasonable amount of clipping with a high level setting, which is counterintuitive. Without knowing the actual function of the circuit in relation to the settings, it's hard to pass judgment. Exactly. But knowing Sony +6 is +6. Ramtied, an amplifier is not the only gain device in a signal chain. A head unit's volume knob is also a gain device. Turn it up too much and your low level line will clip.

I would dare venture an F1 would struggle to be clean at 95%.

Bummer, you have to be confused completely. That site is full of bullshit. Sorry Rofl. I see what you did there. Actually, I'm learning quite a bit and I honestly appreciate it. I don't plan on running any competitions or having a big dick contest, I just find value in promoting a brand such as Fi, regardless of the made in America part. I still enjoy the market and I think more people can benefit from the knowledge on this forum and from the workers at Fi like Nick, who takes the time to respond to customer inquires, no matter how juvenile the question. I moved my amp today, drilled it into the back of my fold down back seat so I can easily adjust the gain and monitor it's temps. It was hot, but not hot enough to burn me or make me pull my hand away. I need to get familiar with my equipment so I know what is acceptable heat wise. It should get better ambient cooling being in the cabin now as well. I have not yet adjusted the gain. I think I'm going to play my deepest bass song, adjust at my preferred listening volume and monitor temps over a few hours to see where I'm at. I've used this method on tens of subs before the DD-1 and only ever blew a pair of Visonik's back when I was 15. My last question, my head unit has 2 subwoofer options. One appears to be the general subwoofer level, which is +6. And then there's another subwoofer option in another setting where I have it at +6 as well. Should I just make both of these 0 and adjust gain only? Does the EQ crossover options such as vocal or xplod affect the woofer? One of the frequencies in the curve is 65Hz or so, but is that only for the mids/highs? Thanks again everyone. Zero everything. No bass boost, do not EQ to the + side, always attenuate (dial the EQ down). You claimed you were clipping the HU at 47 out of 50 and you have the sub outs dialed to +6? Bullshit. Not bullshit on you, but it is proof that the DD1 is a complete pile of shit. Not only that, but there is no way in hell an Xplod unit is clean to 94% of it's total output at 0... no way in hell.

Actually going to Vegas on nov. 18th. My little sister turns 21 on Nov. 16th. When I lived in SoCal I had the best hook up. One of my good friends got a job in Vegas, as a foreman for an industrial construction company. His wife stayed in SoCal. The company paid for his apartment in Vegas, so he stayed there for free during the week. He went home on weekends, and we snagged his apartment all the time for weekend trips. Spent a ton of time partying it up before and during the transformation from an adult destination to a family destination.

Less than $750 including the Hotel in Vegas for a long weekend... I'm a baller.

Why would anyone really want to "max out the potential of their subs"? Are you competing, or just being that asshole riding down the street forcing me to listen to your shitty music? Anyways, no a clip indicator is not going to work as well as a $5K scope, in the hands of someone who knows how to use it. Next, if you are afraid that you are clipping your amp, buy a more powerful amp. Headroom is a good thing. Every single component in every single one of my systems has an amplifier that is rated at significantly more power then each component is rated at. Set the amps correctly, listen for stresses in the system, then dial it back. Why would you want to buy an amplifier that you have to push to it's limits just to achieve your desired goal? You are pushing linearity, risking clipping, and building heat. None of these are beneficial to your expensive components. Would I buy a Smart car to make the run from LA to Vegas at 100MPH, or would it make more sense to buy a Corvette to make that same run? Pushing a Smart car to it's absolute limit is not beneficial to the vehicle, but the Vette will have a ton of headroom. Set the system at 0db for daily driving use. There is no need to push it beyond that. I am also quite sure that your subs drown out your front stage... awesome. I would dial it back further to blend well with the front stage, but I doubt your ultimate goal is sound quality. All my systems subs are set at 0db with my ears (I am listening for stress, not clipping), and then all are dialed back via the remote to achieve a flat system, not an overboosted bass heavy rattle trap. That way if someone wants to hear what my subs can do, I can safely show them, but when I actually want to enjoy my system, I can easily dial it back to normal listening levels in just a few seconds.

That's ironic. I was contemplating making an old man joke about going in for a hernia. I figured he broke a hip... Snap on tools are pricey, we have a truck come by and I see something and want it.. then see the price and I'm like fo-get-it. I mainly buy Chraftsman tools just because of the great warranty.. and especially if your snap on truck driver knows you break stuff a lot and decided to stop coming around, lol. I've done jackMy new Dark Night router is the fucking shit. We have a hodge podge of tools. (I work on air crafts) of snapon, bluepoint, Craftsman, and matco and honestly I think ive seen more broken snap on ratchets than anything, just terrible. The CM ratchets arent that great but I do like, the rarcheting wrenches. Its more of a preference any tool will break. But I think snapons warranty is like.. 2 years? I cant remember. If I break a ratchet once a year thats fine doesnt bother me as long as I can return it no questions asked lol SnapOn is lifetime warranty.

Only thing I can say is some of the rem700s come with a rubber hogue stock and it sucks. As you said the barrels require a press, and use thread locker so they're supposedly a bitch to try and change yourself. I'm pretty happy about the stock trigger on my rem700 sps varmint. It's a light, short, linear pull, no hang ups anywhere. I haven't shot many rifles to compare it to, so feel free to take that with a grain of salt. Might also check out fn herstal to see if they have a rifle with the barrel twist you want. Yeah, not a fan of the stock on the 700 either. To me, the serious plus side of the Remington is the Action... I am really not a big fan of the triggers, but seriously for $100 I can drop a top notch trigger into it. My old 22-250 was a Remington, and it was a great rifle. I would take the Savage, then the Tika. I would not consider the other too much. The 700 is cool if you want to do a shit load of upgrades but as you mentioned the savage is the best out of the box. Even the barrels are known to be lasers from the box. The only thing that stopped me from just buying one and being done is that I hate the stocks. None of them fit me well. I like the fact that the model 12 offers a 9.5 twist as well. I can easily lob 80 grain rounds several hundred rounds out with it. It is essentially a match grade round at that weight with that twist and a heavy load. I can also comfortably shoot 60 grainers without burning up the barrel, but lift and burn may be an issue with anything under 60. Part of me wants to have a 12-14 twist so I can toss 35 grain chunks over 4000 FPS that explode on impact. When I was a kid I shot woodchucks at 300 yards with 35 and 40 grain rounds, but if they hit anything on the way they blew up. Check it out (WMV FWIW). They are moving so fast and they have so little mass to them that they shatter. While it is fairly worthless, it is still fun to have a round that behaves like that. But really, with the Savage I can swap barrels in 30 minutes and do just that. I do love my Tikka, and that is really why it is on my list. But the thought of having to buy a barrel immediately sucks. With their 14 twist barrel I have no other option. No matter what trim I buy it in (Lite, Hunter, Varminter) the twist rate is 14.

I said I am 15 to 20 older... and I am if you aren't yet 40. Ha, ok then. Not sure why I thought you were 38. Reading on pain killers > me.You had to own some uber slow dial up then. Dude, I remember when we didn't have internet... or Windows. My first "computer" was a Commodore VIC20. We didn't have CDs or DVDs, it had a fucking tape deck for media/storage.

It is much faster, the range is fucking retarded, I love the USB as secured FTP server, dual frequency lets us have every device in the house running at the same time without IP conflicts, and the guest network option is awesome for when friends/family are over... It is also amazing not to have to reset the router 2-3 times a day. He upgraded from Dial up. I'm not that old. Oh yeah, It is standing up and the antennae are on.

I said I am 15 to 20 older... and I am if you aren't yet 40.

OK, so I just got myself an opportunity for long range, high yield woodchuck/groundhog hunting. My shop manager is a hunter, and he has taken to a .17 HMR that he built the shit out of.. But we discussed hard core varminters and he is interested in a .223 WSSM build. So now I have a varminting buddy again. Unfortunately I sold my varminter several years back. I have decided I will chamber in 22-250 again, and I am going to handload. First to the loads; I will be loading 55-65 grain ballistic tips, but I want to keep my options open to include 70 grain, and possibly 80 grain for really long range coyote shoots. With this thought in mind, ideally I want a 9-10 twist, but I have the option of loading 22-250 improved, which will yeild me a bit more speed, and might stretch me out to 11 or even a 12 twist, but this is not ideal with heavier loads. With that in mind, this is my goal; I want to buy affordable (not opposed to used in good condition), I am looking for something that will shoot very well out of the box, and I would like to have the option for nice upgradeability in the future if I do really wind up doing a lot of varminting. I have narrowed it down to these options. The Savage Model 12 is at the very top of my list, followed closely by the Remington 700, the Tikka T3 light, and the Browning X-bolt. The Savage model 12 receives excellent reviews for out of the box performance. The big deal with it is, they are so easy to customize and build. It comes with the accu-trigger, which is the nicest stock offering, and may not even need an upgrade in the future. Also, the barrels are simple to change, and there is a local barrel builder with tons of custom offerings for the Savage actions. I can get into a Model 12 for ~$500 used, spend $300 on a nice bull barrel and really be done with it. On to the others... The Model 700 is a fantastic action. The barrels require a press to change, and frankly that makes it less appealing to me. I am basically stuck with the stock barrel, unless I want to buy a barrel and have it installed by a smith, making the swap almost twice as expensive as a simple barrel swap on the Savage. The trigger group will have to be swapped out in the future, without a doubt. The Tikka T3 is a damn fine gun. I have a T3 Hunter in .270 WSM. The action is very smooth and well controlled and the shortest out of the selected group, the gun is exceptionally accurate right out of the box, I can swap barrels easily (which I will have to do as the Lite needs a better barrel as all Tikka 22-250s are 14 twists). The Browning... I love the feel of the A and X bolts. I always have. But I have never had the pleasure of shooting one, personally. This is more of a "I have always wanted" rather then an "I really researched it and" kind of a deal. Anyone with any input on any of these choices, or any other options? My goal is to initially spend less that $600, new or used. Glass is handled already.

Dude I thought you were a year younger than me. I had a 300 baud modem at one point. Nope. I am quite sure I am 15-20 years older.

It is much faster, the range is fucking retarded, I love the USB as secured FTP server, dual frequency lets us have every device in the house running at the same time without IP conflicts, and the guest network option is awesome for when friends/family are over... It is also amazing not to have to reset the router 2-3 times a day. He upgraded from Dial up. I'm not that old.

Snap on tools are pricey, we have a truck come by and I see something and want it.. then see the price and I'm like fo-get-it. I mainly buy Chraftsman tools just because of the great warranty.. and especially if your snap on truck driver knows you break stuff a lot and decided to stop coming around, lol. I have several craftsman tools, but honestly they are the ones that get used the least. I bought several over 20 years ago when they were still decent, but most have broken and been replaced by their newer shit that does not hold up. I have a set of standard wrenches (from ~9/32 to 1 1/2) that are decent, but the most common wrenches (5/16, 3/8, 1/2, 9/16, 3/4, 13/16) have all been replaced by MAC wrenches. All my Crapsman ratchets are no longer. The vast majority of my tools are MAC, and I have about ~$130-150 grand worth of hand/specialty tools (excluding electrical, diagnostic, and scan tools). Honestly their ratchets break gears all the time. I have recently bought ~$750 worth of Snap-On ratchets over the past few months and I find they are much nicer. 80 teeth as opposed to 72 teeth, and they are really holding up under a lot of abuse. I put big cheater pipes on my stuff, and over the past 3 months I have had then they are really dealing with my abuse. I have snapped handles with the way I treat my ratchets, but these Snappys are nice. But the MAC flank drive wrenches I have are ~15 years old. I have never broken one, but I have lost a few. I got the extra length wrenches, which they do not offer any more, and with 15 years of hard use they have lasted. All my wrenches are MAC (aside from my standard stuff) and I have about $1500 in wrenches, most of my screw drivers, all my pliers (again, over $1500 in pliers), almost all of my sockets (easily $7500 worth), my digital torque/angle wrenches and so many more hand tools are all MAC. Although my clicker torque wrenches all Matco (older stuff, before they artificially inflated their prices). For home use Craftsman is OK. But for those of us who make a living from our tools and demand durability, there is no comparison between most Craftsman and professional level tools like MAC, or Snappy. Matco is overpriced now a days, and Cornwell... do they exist any more? I've done jack My new Dark Night router is the fucking shit.

Are those the Pentastar engines? The 3.7 and 4.7 are Powertech engine. The 2.7 is the LH engine.

Regarding Chryslers, run away from anything with the 2.7, 3.7, or 4.7 engines.

Meh, The Grand Caravan with the 3.8 is quite reliable, much more so than the Odyssey with their transmission issues. I am generally not a Chrysler fan, but they have fixed their tranny issues, and I am really not seeing any nagging issues with their vans (with the 3.8) anymore. The 3.8 powertrain has been strong over the past 5 or 6 years.

There is always a concern about bricking when you root. This is really where you want to go to learn about and phone modifications: http://forum.xda-developers.com/

Yeah, I was thinking either a sealed box or a LLT for the XCON 10, I don't have my PC with me or i'd try and mess around in WinSD and see where that got me.. For the xcon I'm thinking one of the big plate amps from Dayton, and maybe either just a plain 2 channel amplifier or receiver.. not really sure where I should go. If movies are on the bill, you want a multi channel. For music, stereo is perfect. Although I prefer true stereo, and in my system I do not run my subs for music... of course my mains are flat in room to ~33Hz... I'll need to look at F3 on the design you are looking at. For $100? I think it is a pretty solid design and at one hell of a nice budget setup. Sure, they aren't Seas with Planers, but they aren't supposed to be. The TL design should work very well with the selected drivers. Ideally I would add a notch with the in room bump at 2K, but I understand the simplicity of the design.

I like a TL design. Interested in this project

Or I'll pour you a bottle of double oak and we can have a cigar and then fix my truck? Sounds fair enough. I am in, you all don't mind. Sounds like a party

Or I'll pour you a bottle of double oak and we can have a cigar and then fix my truck? Sounds fair enough.

OK Matt, I bought the RT-N66R today. So far so good. If I don't like it I am gonna fly up your way and hurt you.