sandt38

I think Seth has a good one. I use this. http://www.edgeproinc.com/Apex-Model-Edge-Pro-System/Apex-4-kit-p7.html I use the Tormek, but it is high dollar.

Have been helping a friend deal with the problem now. We have redone the cooling and every other bandaid. Still just randomly overheats and eats coolant. Look in the valley under the intake. I bet it is full of coolant. It is not open to the crankcase so it will pool in the valley there. That is where they usually leak when the bolts get yanked out of the block. Another common leak point is the crossover on the back of the heads. It is the piece that the water pump is mounted in. It is a motherfucker of a job. The dreaded coolant crossover gasket. I think book time is 10 or 11 hours for 40$ in gaskets. I did mine in front of my inlaws garage in about 10 hours, pain in the ass. If it isn't the coolant crossover, its the head gasket. To fix it properly, drop the engine, pull the heads and stud the block with the SureGrip studs. Mine blew the head gasket at 186k miles, sold it for 400$. I figured it was worth 1,500$ or so running, 600$ for the stud kit and a weekend of labor. Not worth it to me, but mine was a 96. Believe it or not the crossover book is around 4 hours. It is one of very few jobs that I cannot beat book time on, and if I do it is by a cunt hair. Generally I can do most jobs in 1/2 to 2/3 of book time, with a spattering of 1/4 book, but those crossovers... I hate them.

Have been helping a friend deal with the problem now. We have redone the cooling and every other bandaid. Still just randomly overheats and eats coolant.Escalade has a Chevy engine, exact same as the Yukon Denali. Aluminum block LS, no Northstar.I'm gonna say there's a cracked head.what engine and year is it.01-06 4.8l and 5.3l engines had weak castings in the holes were the head bolts pass thru Not sure where you head that, but it is not a common issue. I have never seen or heard of it in any common context. I am sure it has happened, but it is likely an isolated incident. We used to see it on the 4.3s and 5.0s where the head cracked at the front lower head bolt and leaked externally. I have heard about them cracking inside the valve cover, but I have not personally seen this.

Have been helping a friend deal with the problem now. We have redone the cooling and every other bandaid. Still just randomly overheats and eats coolant. Look in the valley under the intake. I bet it is full of coolant. It is not open to the crankcase so it will pool in the valley there. That is where they usually leak when the bolts get yanked out of the block. Another common leak point is the crossover on the back of the heads. It is the piece that the water pump is mounted in. It is a motherfucker of a job.

I've never heard of an issue with the LS engines. You sure you're not thinking of 1980s iron block/aluminum head gasket issues? Something to do with the bolts not engaging enough into the block, thus allowing the head to warp. 2000's NorthStar anyways. It wasn't an issue with head bolt engagement, it was the fact that they strapped the bolt threads into aluminum without steel sleeves. The head bolts ran all the way down to the crank mains (yes, they are like 2 feet long) and if the engine got slightly hot the heads would twist and yank the threads out of the block. You can actually get the sleeve kit to rethread the block correctly (and yes, it is apparently a permanent fix), but the cost of this repair is retardedly huge. It makes more sense to just replace the engine or scrap the car.

Sexy. That is a Kanger PT2 on it, yes?

Different engine altogether, but no the Northstars still suck dick. The engine in the Eskys are Chevy engines.

Terribly interested in your observations. What are you running on it? I am looking at clearomozers for outside use (I think I have narrowed it down to Aspire BDC tanks, most notably the ETS, the Vivi Nova S and the Anyvape Davide which uses the Aspire heads ), and I am on the fence about atomizers. I am thinking about the eVic atomizer. Last night my son's best friend's father came by my house. He bought a telescoping mech mod with a rebuildable drip atomizer and several juices. He brought 2 of the big 18650 batteries (a 20 amp and 30 amp battery) and the small 18350 battery, so I could see and try each one. It was truly a cool experience. The different batteries behaved differently (he did not have a variable voltage or variable wattage set up), which shocked me. They were all 3.8V batteries. So I am anxious to get my first mod, and I am interested in seeing how it compares to a mech mod.

Twin screws will put out massive Tq instantly and a centri will build boost more progressively and generally have much much less torque and it comes on later. A good twin screw setup will feel like a big block all motor car. In a big SUV a whipple or manga charger type setup would shit all over a centri for daily driving.That doesn't make sense, the centrifugal could just be geared to blow harder. I don't understand some of this, obviously, but a lower amount of rotating mass like a centrifugal blower sounds like it would be less parasitic and if a turbo can produce huge wind, so can a belt driven snail, that is all just a matter of the pulleys and ratios. A centrifugal can blow harder, but the total displacement is considerably less. A turbo spins a lot faster, which is where it's benefit lies.

Meh. I am a worker, not a teacher. I love helping other mechanics, and showing them shit on an individual level, but I could not teach people shit. I understand how things work, but getting it from my head into words is another thing. I help a lot of people by phone, but in difficult situations I can analyze data, but I cannot explain what I am seeing or explain why it makes sense, it just does. It isn't all about "this is how it is" with me, it is more of a sense of deductive reasoning. I have had many cases where I can fix something, but explaining how I got there is impossible for me. I just get it, I can't necessarily explain it. I wonder if that's something whole foods down here would have? I've been getting growlers lately and looking into brewing. Oddly I found it at my local Sheetz store. We have a local store (Bestway) that has a "Wall of beer", and they don't have it. If you like a stout, I suggest looking hard for this. The label says "Winter 13/14", so I expect it is a short run. My cousin's husband brews big time, is garage is retarded... they have a 3 car garage and it is all brewing, but he has never done anything like this... of course he likes oatmeal stouts. His beers are excellent, BTW. Another buddy of mine was so turned on last week by it that he is learning about chocolate and cocoa stouts. I hope he can work something out. He made a great stout and an excellent porter.

They sound great!!! Yeah, Amazing... I have no words to explain this beer. Bar none, my favorite beer I have ever tried. Oddly, I tend to like my stouts fairly warm, roughly 50 degrees or so. But this is amazing even in the fridge.

I would go whipple, no question.

Read above your quote here. It's all about the exhaust. They COULD be CARB legal, but the money and time would make the kits too expensive and would never sell, so it's pointless. Any time you make any part of the exhaust different from OEM, you are in violation. Depends on the exhaust system. An esky goes 2 into one, but it does run 2 cats. So it must feed exhaust thought both cats before the turbo. While not impossible, it is a nightmare. FWIW a Turbo is not optimal for towing. A turbo (particularly intercooled) requires engine RPM and exhaust flow. You can compensate by using a loose converter, but you build heat. This heat buildup is an extremely bad thing when yanking weight behind you. IMO, while I am not a big supercharger fan (sorry, I owned a built to fuck GN), an SC makes more sense in Sean's case. I tow a 2,000lb trailer for 99% of my towing. Stock it has plenty of power for towing it. Figure a turbo does make sense for the economy of it and lack of extra load on the rest of the engine to compensate for spinning the charger. If I were towing I would go SC. No question. A turbo is my preference, but in all honesty I think you would be happier with an SC, just based on what I have read about your driving preference and requirements. Yes. Not really. They are used in diesels because they are tuned to work with super low RPM systems. They are easily set up with exhaust work, and diesels use huge exhausts. This promotes low RPM flow, but lacks high RPM flow. In a diesel, this makes sense because their powerband is so narrow. With a gasoline engine the powerband is extremely wide.

Read above your quote here. It's all about the exhaust. They COULD be CARB legal, but the money and time would make the kits too expensive and would never sell, so it's pointless. Any time you make any part of the exhaust different from OEM, you are in violation. Depends on the exhaust system. An esky goes 2 into one, but it does run 2 cats. So it must feed exhaust thought both cats before the turbo. While not impossible, it is a nightmare. FWIW a Turbo is not optimal for towing. A turbo (particularly intercooled) requires engine RPM and exhaust flow. You can compensate by using a loose converter, but you build heat. This heat buildup is an extremely bad thing when yanking weight behind you. IMO, while I am not a big supercharger fan (sorry, I owned a built to fuck GN), an SC makes more sense in Sean's case. I tow a 2,000lb trailer for 99% of my towing. Stock it has plenty of power for towing it. Figure a turbo does make sense for the economy of it and lack of extra load on the rest of the engine to compensate for spinning the charger. If I were towing I would go SC. No question. A turbo is my preference, but in all honesty I think you would be happier with an SC, just based on what I have read about your driving preference and requirements.

I am totally wasted on the Brooklyn Brewery Black Chocolate Stout. I bought 2 4 packs and went beck to the shop. I had 4, 1 other tech had 3 and my service manager had 1. I bought all 3 remaining 4 packs on my way home, and drank 5 more beers. I got out of work 3 hours ago. At 10% these are solid alcohol beers... Yeah, I am wasted and I just opened another... Holy FUCK these are tasty. You guys who like real beer MUST TRY THESES!!!!

As an inspector (or former inspector) for NY, CA, and NC I can state completely, 100% without question; anything after the cat does not create a failure for emissions. In all cases the sound ordinance is not the inspector's problem. All we care about is mods up to, and including, the cat. In all cases CARB certified headers and exhaust mods pre-cat DO pass. Air pump and possible EGR issues come into play but on my GN I had a state forced SMOG test (sometimes Cali would force you to bring your vehicle to a state run facility instead of a private run facility) and my headers, turbo, and 3 inch Terry Houston downpipe all passed emissions inspection.

No, as long as you maintain the stock configuration of your exhaust it is legal. You cannot go from a 2 cat system to a one cat system.

Read above your quote here. It's all about the exhaust. They COULD be CARB legal, but the money and time would make the kits too expensive and would never sell, so it's pointless. Any time you make any part of the exhaust different from OEM, you are in violation. Depends on the exhaust system. An esky goes 2 into one, but it does run 2 cats. So it must feed exhaust thought both cats before the turbo. While not impossible, it is a nightmare. FWIW a Turbo is not optimal for towing. A turbo (particularly intercooled) requires engine RPM and exhaust flow. You can compensate by using a loose converter, but you build heat. This heat buildup is an extremely bad thing when yanking weight behind you. IMO, while I am not a big supercharger fan (sorry, I owned a built to fuck GN), an SC makes more sense in Sean's case.

I do my own extraction as well. What threads? Or what battery are you using? I am using the Seego Vhit type C atomizer. https://candyvape.com/SEEGO-VHIT-C-VAPORIZER?search=SEEGO&description=true They also have a type B that looks more like a traditional tank. But in some cases, depending on your battery, you may need to get an adapter. I have tried blending and using a standard cart, but I didn't like it as much. My first try was in a mini tank I have. It is the eGo-T joytech. I believe this one. It was given to me. http://www.joyetech.com/product/eGoT.php Funny we got on the topic of vaping bc I made the wifey go get me blu this morning as I have been a dick for the last month cold turkeying it. lol Dude, I did the Blu thing and it was worthless. The batteries last about 30 minutes, the carts do not last long at all and are terribly weak. I was about to give up until I was turned on to the Halo G6. Totally different situation. I haven't smoked since. A good e-cig is a tremendous help. The Joytech is a solid ego. It will accept the bulb I linked. You already have a good battery, so get a tank. Since you have friends with a vape shop have them turn you on to a good tank (amazing tanks can be had for $20-30, decent ego tanks will go for as low as $5). Try looking at a bottom coil clearomizer. They are easy to use, easy to fill, and easy to maintain. Get some juices and fill up your own tanks. I made the wifey go buy the blu bc I would of bought a pack of lemaC's instead. lol I had talked to my friend's, when I did a half sleeve on one of them a few months ago, and the said they could get me dry herb cartridges. Just haven't had time to get to it. Dry is completely different from oil. You need an essential oil vaporizer. Huge difference. The dry will burn hotter and cause the BHO to taste burned, and a ton will be wasted. In the Seego I can toss in an 1/8 of a gram and roll hard for days, even better then a cig or titanium nail. It lasts easily 30% longer, maybe upwards of 50%. I started a few weeks ago and have tried several methods, because I tossed my dab in the end of a cig too... So trust me when I tell you, the Seego or the budder ball are the way to go. I prefer the Seego because nothing runs off the nail into the ball. With the open atomizers it runs into the ball and needs to be cleaned with an iso soak. I'll post some pics, and a friend's opinion tomorrow. He is a hard core dabber, so his input will be HUGE. I am stopping by his joint tomorrow so he can try a few things I have been working on. I want to be sure it is easy on the lungs, tastes great, and does it's job with the best efficiency.

I have done it before. I will be getting a dyno tune after. U Yeah, installing it isn't a huge deal. Getting it tuned is a different story. The GM modular V8 is a simple motor to tear into. I can have the heads on the floor in an hour to an hour and a half.

I do my own extraction as well. What threads? Or what battery are you using? I am using the Seego Vhit type C atomizer. https://candyvape.com/SEEGO-VHIT-C-VAPORIZER?search=SEEGO&description=true They also have a type B that looks more like a traditional tank. But in some cases, depending on your battery, you may need to get an adapter. I have tried blending and using a standard cart, but I didn't like it as much. My first try was in a mini tank I have. It is the eGo-T joytech. I believe this one. It was given to me. http://www.joyetech.com/product/eGoT.php Funny we got on the topic of vaping bc I made the wifey go get me blu this morning as I have been a dick for the last month cold turkeying it. lol Dude, I did the Blu thing and it was worthless. The batteries last about 30 minutes, the carts do not last long at all and are terribly weak. I was about to give up until I was turned on to the Halo G6. Totally different situation. I haven't smoked since. A good e-cig is a tremendous help. The Joytech is a solid ego. It will accept the bulb I linked. You already have a good battery, so get a tank. Since you have friends with a vape shop have them turn you on to a good tank (amazing tanks can be had for $20-30, decent ego tanks will go for as low as $5). Try looking at a bottom coil clearomizer. They are easy to use, easy to fill, and easy to maintain. Get some juices and fill up your own tanks.

I do my own extraction as well. What threads? Or what battery are you using? I am using the Seego Vhit type C atomizer. https://candyvape.com/SEEGO-VHIT-C-VAPORIZER?search=SEEGO&description=true They also have a type B that looks more like a traditional tank. But in some cases, depending on your battery, you may need to get an adapter. I have tried blending and using a standard cart, but I didn't like it as much. My first try was in a mini tank I have.

I got that all figured out if you need any help. I am hitting BHO oils and shatter with great success.

Bought the Evic here http://www.ebay.com/itm/190999923847 I'll let you know if it's authentic, but at that price I took the chance with their feedback. I can get the control head ($60), a black drip tip collar and battery tube (12), stock battery (12), and cable (2) for about the same here. http://www.litecigusa.net/joyetech_eVic_electronic_cigarette_s/267.htm I like the black tube, personally. Plus I can get the 18350 battery and short tube mod here, for $20 http://www.vaporkings.com/JoyeTech-18350-mod-tube-p/evic-18350tube.htm I saw the short tube mod on a forum and really liked the small form factor. With the short tube and a protank it is just a shade longer then a naked e-go twist (ie; Halo triton) battery by itself.

Not as much as you might think. I left Buffalo and moved to San Diego. The first year was awesome. But after a couple years Christmas was depressing. No spring, no fall, no Christmas feeling winter...I was so happy to move to NC and have seasons again... I think when you grow up with seasons, not having them sucks...