sandt38

Yes. From beginning to end, yes.

Intake will have to come off, but it is easy.

I'd take the K&N off and go back to paper.Any reason why? The change to the K&N actually achieved higher MPG's (took mesurements over a 2 week time for each filter) of over 2 mpgs. J Because it will load up your MAF sensor.

I'm sure you would refuse to fuck her now... It grows back. Thank God.

Fuck... http://s45.photobucket.com/user/sandt38/library/patterns?sort=3&page=1 There is the album. Can be blown up there.

If you just want to read faults and reset the standard ones the amazon bluetooth connect to your smart phone reader for $15 works. I looked at them, but figured they were junk. Do you have one of have ever used one? Good stuff usually. A couple of my friends have something similar, they use Bluetooth ELM327 interfaces off ebay. Cheap, simple and they work well. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-ELM327-V1-5-OBD2-II-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Car-Auto-Interface-Scanner-S3-/200960099054 I actually know someone who uses torque. It seems decent.

Here are 8 shots. WD1 ill be the top left page, Wd2 the bottom left, etc, etc, at the right side you have WD7 at the top and WD8 down low. http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f93/sandt38/patterns/wd1_zps2811978d.jpg http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f93/sandt38/patterns/wd2_zps47a5c20b.jpg http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f93/sandt38/patterns/wd3_zpsbdb5c65d.jpg http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f93/sandt38/patterns/wd4_zpsd23a41ea.jpg http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f93/sandt38/patterns/wd5_zps7fbda83d.jpg http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f93/sandt38/patterns/wd6_zps72fdd47f.jpg http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f93/sandt38/patterns/wd7_zpsd30cb987.jpg http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f93/sandt38/patterns/wd8_zps6a4dbc4c.jpg Sorry but posting the images here shrunk them to unreadable size.

2010 Escalade Base AWD. I'm dying for anything. I've searched like hell, but as always there is stuff on older models and nothing on new. Not a surprise.I would also assume it is a bus as the Lux in the last gen was and moving "backwards" they probably wouldn't do. The amp has a Delco part number from what I can find so far. Having a wiring diagram may just give me the motivation to do something. Wishing I hadn't sold my 880 as it would be easy enough to use a Joyconn to read the steering wheel and use that volume control exclusively saving the knob for the rears only. It really does sound fucking awful. I'll need the RPO numbers from the build sheet. You typically find the build sheet inside or on the back of the glove box, or on the cover over the spare tire or rear package area cover. It will be roughly a 3X5 sticker with a shit ton of 3 digit codes. The RPO numbers I will need to know about are UQS, Y91, and UQA. You will find either one or a combination of 2 of these RPOs. Apparently there were 4 system set up options on the Base AWD Esky. FWIW I glanced at some of the diagrams and based on internal terminating resistors I am going to say most of the controls are BUS based. Has Y91, UQS but no UQA Bumping this so I can look when I get home tonight for you. Trying to figure out a way to send the diagrams to you. There are 4 fucking pages and I cannot get reasonable screenshots... If you have firefox you can install the addon "screengrab." It lets you take entire screenshots of a page (including what you would see if you scrolled). I use FF for everything, except Mitchel. I have to use IE for it. Any suggestions for that?

2010 Escalade Base AWD. I'm dying for anything. I've searched like hell, but as always there is stuff on older models and nothing on new. Not a surprise.I would also assume it is a bus as the Lux in the last gen was and moving "backwards" they probably wouldn't do. The amp has a Delco part number from what I can find so far. Having a wiring diagram may just give me the motivation to do something. Wishing I hadn't sold my 880 as it would be easy enough to use a Joyconn to read the steering wheel and use that volume control exclusively saving the knob for the rears only. It really does sound fucking awful. I'll need the RPO numbers from the build sheet. You typically find the build sheet inside or on the back of the glove box, or on the cover over the spare tire or rear package area cover. It will be roughly a 3X5 sticker with a shit ton of 3 digit codes. The RPO numbers I will need to know about are UQS, Y91, and UQA. You will find either one or a combination of 2 of these RPOs. Apparently there were 4 system set up options on the Base AWD Esky. FWIW I glanced at some of the diagrams and based on internal terminating resistors I am going to say most of the controls are BUS based. Has Y91, UQS but no UQA Bumping this so I can look when I get home tonight for you. Trying to figure out a way to send the diagrams to you. There are 4 fucking pages and I cannot get reasonable screenshots...

OBD2 Generic is a general engine management communication protocol. The US government established specific guidelines for every manufacturer to follow, including required generic parameters (PIDs), generic code numbers, generic code descriptions, and generic memory clearing and they were required to use a specific connector and had to allow this communication protocol on certain pins of the connector. Manufacturers were allotted several "manufacturer specific" code descriptions, code numbers, memory clearing, bi-directional controls, various communication protocols among many computers, and a ton of other wiggle room, including allowing manufacturers to use vacant pins for their factory scan tools. Some of the more advanced code readers will translate manufacturer specific codes (codes numbered over P1000), they may provide more than the generic requirements for PIDs, they may allow for bi-directional control, they may also provide for scanning of some modules other than the ECM since most manufacturers have opted to communicate with most, if not all, of their other onboard computers with their scanners through the OBD2 connector.

To the Vapers... I grabbed a Kanger ProTank3 today. I also ordered my eVic in black, an eVic atomizer, a PT2, an Aspire ViviNova, and an Aspire Davide. FWIW the PT3 is truly a nice unit. Amazing flavor, and built like a brick shit house. I am interested to see how the others stack up.

If you just want to read faults and reset the standard ones the amazon bluetooth connect to your smart phone reader for $15 works. I looked at them, but figured they were junk. Do you have one of have ever used one? Torque is a decent app. You can snag an adapter on ebay on the cheap as Sean mentioned. Not sure about the unit you linked, but I assume it is similar. OBD2 is standardized so finding decent readers like that is not hard. It really depends on what you want to spend.

2010 Escalade Base AWD. I'm dying for anything. I've searched like hell, but as always there is stuff on older models and nothing on new. Not a surprise.I would also assume it is a bus as the Lux in the last gen was and moving "backwards" they probably wouldn't do. The amp has a Delco part number from what I can find so far. Having a wiring diagram may just give me the motivation to do something. Wishing I hadn't sold my 880 as it would be easy enough to use a Joyconn to read the steering wheel and use that volume control exclusively saving the knob for the rears only. It really does sound fucking awful. I'll need the RPO numbers from the build sheet. You typically find the build sheet inside or on the back of the glove box, or on the cover over the spare tire or rear package area cover. It will be roughly a 3X5 sticker with a shit ton of 3 digit codes. The RPO numbers I will need to know about are UQS, Y91, and UQA. You will find either one or a combination of 2 of these RPOs. Apparently there were 4 system set up options on the Base AWD Esky. FWIW I glanced at some of the diagrams and based on internal terminating resistors I am going to say most of the controls are BUS based. Has Y91, UQS but no UQA Bumping this so I can look when I get home tonight for you.

Autel and Launch have some really solid offerings in that price range. Your local NAPA should offer them at a reasonable price. I'll jump on NAPA's site tonight and dig you up something.

2010 Escalade Base AWD. I'm dying for anything. I've searched like hell, but as always there is stuff on older models and nothing on new. Not a surprise.I would also assume it is a bus as the Lux in the last gen was and moving "backwards" they probably wouldn't do. The amp has a Delco part number from what I can find so far. Having a wiring diagram may just give me the motivation to do something. Wishing I hadn't sold my 880 as it would be easy enough to use a Joyconn to read the steering wheel and use that volume control exclusively saving the knob for the rears only. It really does sound fucking awful. I'll need the RPO numbers from the build sheet. You typically find the build sheet inside or on the back of the glove box, or on the cover over the spare tire or rear package area cover. It will be roughly a 3X5 sticker with a shit ton of 3 digit codes. The RPO numbers I will need to know about are UQS, Y91, and UQA. You will find either one or a combination of 2 of these RPOs. Apparently there were 4 system set up options on the Base AWD Esky. FWIW I glanced at some of the diagrams and based on internal terminating resistors I am going to say most of the controls are BUS based.

I was thinking it was a 10, but I need to be certain.

What year is it Sean? I have Mitchel, Alldata, and Motor wiring diagrams available to me. While they might not necessarily give me the info you want, there is always that possibility.

Presumably there is a stock amp in the car? If it's within reach you can intercept the signal cable from the head unit before the inputs of the amp and just solder some rcas and use those as your low level inputs. but depending on where the factory amp is it could be more or less desirable to do it that way. The amp is easy to get, the question is will the signal be effed at the headunit or the amp. I also suspect that if it is in the amp that there is a digital bus for volume and not an analog control. It is the Cadillac version of the bose which is different than the Chevy....at least supposedly. I have found no one who has worked around it yet...but there has to be a way.Amp is supposed to be in the center console with the sub, but I haven't verified yet. It is likely a BUS driven signal.

VW/Audi Group? VAGina LOL... I was going to just type VAG but I didn't figure most here would get it.

VW/Audi Group?

It does nothing for me. I like cigars, because I like cigars. The entire experience, and the nicotine is the last part of it that I enjoy. I don't inhale the smoke however. The pure ligaro strong ones I enjoy will make me stoned though. The vape does nothing for me. My lungs are so sensitive I cough on the vape mist even so it's not enjoyable at all. You don't have to inhale vapor. Unlike cigs there are no chemicals to aid in nicotine uptake in the lungs, so absorption occurs mostly in the mouth and nose. Smoke a cigar flavor juice like a cigar...

He's an international drug trafficker.

Congrats Gram and Gramps!

Terribly interested in your observations. What are you running on it? I am looking at clearomozers for outside use (I think I have narrowed it down to Aspire BDC tanks, most notably the ETS, the Vivi Nova S and the Anyvape Davide which uses the Aspire heads ), and I am on the fence about atomizers. I am thinking about the eVic atomizer. Last night my son's best friend's father came by my house. He bought a telescoping mech mod with a rebuildable drip atomizer and several juices. He brought 2 of the big 18650 batteries (a 20 amp and 30 amp battery) and the small 18350 battery, so I could see and try each one. It was truly a cool experience. The different batteries behaved differently (he did not have a variable voltage or variable wattage set up), which shocked me. They were all 3.8V batteries. So I am anxious to get my first mod, and I am interested in seeing how it compares to a mech mod. Personally I'd avoid mechanic mods. Battery life is terrible on them and the cheap mods are terrible. Some of them have cheap switches which takes little pressure to get them burning.learned that the hard way. Personally I don't like drip mods, yeah you get fresh juice every time but it's very time consuming to constantly drip new juice on the coils. Rebuilding coils is pretty cool but honestly the best clouds I've gotten have been out of my kanger pro tanks. His was pretty solid. I was impressed for what he had in it. Dripping I am on the fence on. I have a 501 atty and it is OK. It is great for trying friend's juices but it is a lot of work. I am contemplating a nice atomizer for just hanging out at the house. The clouds on his were amazing, and the flavor was mind blowing. But it is definitely not how I will use it for the most part, which is why I am using mostly clearos/glassos. I am hearing mixed opinions on the Kanger. My local Vape shop owner said she used to use them but they had leakage issues. She went to the Aspire tanks, which are cheaper, and she says they are better all the way around, except the Kangers are easier to clean up. I have also read a lot of issues with the Kangers leaking. People love them, or they hate them... there is no in between. I will be needing a few tanks, so I may try 1 Aspire Vivi nova and the Aspire ETS. I am thinking about grabbing an Aspire Davide, which is essentially a Protank with Aspire heads. But I am on the fence about the Davide or the Innokin I30, as I have read a shit ton of good stuff about it. It seems to be everyone's "always go back to" device. I am going with the all black eVic. I am getting both the 18650 and 18350 tubes. I figure for ~$20 more I'll just try the smaller battery and tube as well, for portability sake.

I like the Triton. I have a Triton Variable Voltage battery and it is the same thing as an eGo Twist, but it uses vGo threads and an 801 instead of eGo/501. Plus all their stuff is made in the good old US of A. I vape with it all day and have never killed it. I started with the Halo G6, bought the mini tanks, and decided to step up to the Triton. I'm glad I did. The good thing about Halo is their points system (if you buy online). Their juices are very good and their CS is solid.