sandt38

Hello there...

Needs to exercise More like "needs my tongue in her shit cutter"

SETH I just searched for a quote from you so that you would see this! So I took my mothers 2.5 2003 Nissan Altima (100k miles) in because it was idling rough and would "chug" while driving. They had it for 3 days and could not get it to replicate the problem. I said fine forget it as my Mom had already bought a new car and she was just going to cut her losses and she was going to sell it. I couldn't pick it up that day and the next day I get a call that they tried to back it out of the garage and it "blew up" it made a loud sound and now it won't start. They said that the 3rd cylinder had low pressure and they didn't want to dig any deeper without permission. They said that it may have "jumped the timing chain" and that it could be an easy fix or that "the engine might need to be replaced". This car has been meticulously maintained by these idiots but I just have a hard time believing that this engine is truly done. Is there anything that you can suggest without having your hands on it? This place seems to be incompetent but they are not trying to charge to fix anything so I do not know what to make of the situation. If you can suggest anything I'd appreciate it. We are basically looking for the best way to get rid of it financially. Basically if it were your car and you couldn't work on it yourself what would you do? We had an offer of $750 for it but it has $500 dollars worth of brand new rubber on it, and the kbb value is about 4.5k in poor condition. Should we attempt to repair and sell it, or should we just sell it as a "mechanics special"? If we try to sell it what should we expect? I completely understand if you can't give a definitive answer, I'm just looking for a ballpark. I'd get the issue looked into by a competent mechanic before selling it. It is doubtful that it is a mechanical issue, by the sounds of things. On a Nissan I would be more inclined to believe an injector failure. Odds are they tried throwing coils and plugs on it and it didn't work. Nissans are notorious for injector issues.

SETH I just searched for a quote from you so that you would see this! So I took my mothers 2.5 2003 Nissan Altima (100k miles) in because it was idling rough and would "chug" while driving. They had it for 3 days and could not get it to replicate the problem. I said fine forget it as my Mom had already bought a new car and she was just going to cut her losses and she was going to sell it. I couldn't pick it up that day and the next day I get a call that they tried to back it out of the garage and it "blew up" it made a loud sound and now it won't start. They said that the 3rd cylinder had low pressure and they didn't want to dig any deeper without permission. They said that it may have "jumped the timing chain" and that it could be an easy fix or that "the engine might need to be replaced". This car has been meticulously maintained by these idiots but I just have a hard time believing that this engine is truly done. Is there anything that you can suggest without having your hands on it? This place seems to be incompetent but they are not trying to charge to fix anything so I do not know what to make of the situation. If you can suggest anything I'd appreciate it. We are basically looking for the best way to get rid of it financially. Dude, that's hard to say. It is impossible that the chain jumped and only affected one cylinder. FWIW, I have personally never seen that motor torn down. It is exceptionally reliable. I would ask for a leakdown and/or compression numbers.

Solid choice for a quitting mechanism. I'm glad to hear it. I'm sure I'll get into more down the road with all these crazy mods and stuff showing up. Just wanted to get something that is dependable and will function as a "go between" for the smoking to vaping change. My buddy has a ProVari that's really nice, but I'm not ready to throw that kind of money into something that looks like a maglite until I've gotten used to the switch. Provari is the best VV unit out there. Really solid and an amazing vape. But after going mechanical I can't touch a VV/VW unit anymore. The mechanicals hit like a truck. But they require a lot of know how. Honestly, for $150 you can get a mechanical clone, a real Russian, a battery and charger, some Kanthal and cotton and be in vape Heaven. My Russian clone is awful, which1 is why I suggest a genuine Russian. Without a doubt the best money I have spent was the Russian. I can put it on anything and it hits amazing. I keep my coil builds relatively cool (high ohm loads; ~1.7 ohms) so it can be used on any device, so the base unit is not really a concern. Tons of vapor (not the most of my devices but I get bigger clouds than a cigarette), HUGE flavor, plenty of storage capacity, reliable as fuck (9 tanks on my current coil/wick config), no leaks, no gurgles, solid as a motherfucker... it took some time playing, but it has proven to be my favorite. I spent $80 more on my Aqua and can't get it close to the Russian with regards to simplicity of build, reliability, or flavor. Admittedly it puts out the biggest clouds of all my devices, but the flavor is muted, almost distorted.

I got my Nemesis clone today. Really an excellent $30 investment. I got a matte/polished silver unit, Initial thoughts are, it's a nice build, but the finish is slightly different. The button is not as smooth as the real unit. The threading is nice, but again, not like the real unit. The engraving is deeper, but the image is not as detailed. The text on the buttons is similar, but again, the detail isn't there. It hits like the original, like a hammer. Overall it appears to be a great unit to use at work, and a great way to get into mechanicals for the beginner.

http://www.vaporkings.com/Kanger-ProTank-1-2-and-eVod-atomizer-head-p/protank-atomizer.htm They are a great seller. I have bought a ton of shit from them, including these coils.

That's a good call. I started with the Blu the day before I went to Hawaii. I had been cold turkey for almost a month but was being a uptight prick so needed some sort of nicotine and that was the W's suggestion. Mark quit using the Blu last year, which if you remember he was a pretty heavy lemaC smoker. Long story short, I thought the blu sucked as it taste's like meth, and the battery's don't last. I literally would suck until I was blu in the face (pun intended). When I got back I tried Ivy's CE4 tank with a 650 mAh eGo battery and realized how well it worked as a nicotine delivery system and without turning blu in the face. I then remembered I had the eGo starter kit someone had given me. I dug it out and bought the CE4 (2.4ohm) tank at Smoker friendly as my girls store was closed that day. The CE4 was good other than the tank buckling and leaking IF carried in your jeans pocket, and the easy to lose o-ring. After losing the o-ring on the CE4 I remembered I had an H2 (1.8ohm with wick mod) tank and 950 mAh battery my girl had given me the last time I tatt'ed on her. Instantly was happier with the bigger hits from the 1.8 coil. Also the H2 is a cleaner, simpler design with less parts to fuck up. Bought the H2 for Ivy to replace her CE4 and she agreed it was a better budget tank. I also would question anyone I was working on that had a vape pen. As everyone had a different setup I quickly figured out the two most common battery style setups. The one's Seth talks about are AA size'ish and require a seperate charger like one for AA's. This type requires a head unit to hook the battery case to the tank and serve as the controller. These battery setups require a different battery case for each size mAh battery. The other most common battery is the eGo style ones. These are one piece and screw on to a usb cord for charging. The controller is built in to the eGo battery. I upgraded to the Protank and eGo-C Twist once i had a little time in and knew what I was looking for. Believe me it doesn't hurt to have extra's for backups so even if you start with a basic setup and upgrade once your a little more familiar, the money spent won't be in vein. Or if your like me I just give them to others wanting to start vaping. If you are just using it as a nicotine delivery system to quit smoking then I suggest get the eGo-C Twist and either the H2 or Protank. The usb cords are like 2 dollars so grab a couple of those too. They did just come out with a slim Protank but the mouth piece has a o-ring push style connection opposed to the threaded on most tanks. See if there is a local vape store to go try things out. Don't let them sell you a kit if it has bullshit you don't need as you can usually piece a setup together for less. Actually that is called a drip tip Odds are your protank has a drip tip too. They are called 510 style drip tips, and you can actually buy several cool tips to further customize your vape I currently have ~10 tips, and may swap them out depending on my current mod or my mood. As far as my mods, only the eVic uses a control head. The others are mechanical mods that use no wires or electronics, they use a simple push button switch. If you look at the bottom of the Nemesis you will see a gap. The bottom of the tube is actually a push button switch. In my Nemmys I opted to upgrade the switches to a magnetic switch.

What voltage do you use with the .6 ohm coil? My girls are moving their vape store in the unit next to my shop this weekend. I can see spending a lot of time(and money) over there! How is their pricing? I really need to get off the cigs and on to vaping. I know what I want in a vap too but not how to get it. - Actual clouds of vapor. i feel 'cheated' when i take a drag and see no vapor. - At least two or three tanks. I don't plan on using anything besides vap juices in there, but want to have varieties of flavor available. - Batteries that last at least 18 hours without charging. I smoke a shit ton when I drive, and when I can at work. I believe I can vape at my desk, which would help me too. - Would love adjustable settings so I can 'tune' as needed for a stronger taste, vapor clouds, or throat hit. - No desire to make my own coils or anything. I will just buy new coils or a variety of coils for options. I currently smoke Camel Wide menthols, and occasionally go back to my Camel Wides. When no Wide menthols are available, i will usually pick up newports. Yes I know that's a broad spectrum. Any chance some of you gents can point me to proper options? J I like the eGo twist for the money. CE4s and Protanks are also solid options. I like the ProTank2 best of the 3 Protanks available. The ProTank 1 uses glue joints on the tanks. These can deteriorate over time and leak. The 2 and 3 do not use glue joints, and being glass they deal with harsher acidic juices like cinnamon, and fruits, anything acidic or hot, will crack plastic tanks and melt glues. So keep that in mind when buying juices of different sorts. I also love the Aspire BDCs and their Nautilus. For more adjustability the Nautilus wins hands down, better flow for more vapor and a great flavor head makes it a high end clearo. It is a bit spendy, but still well within your budget. Big clouds are going to be more of a mech mod and rebuildables. Low loads and high current delivery and capacity, as well as massive discharge rates with more fine tunability give you a lot of room to set it up how you like it. But you really need to learn about what makes these things tick or you will get frustrated early and be unlikely to keep stinky free. I can fill a room with vapor pretty quickly with some of my heads, but I build them more for flavor. You can easily get into a nice starter mech/rebuilder clone set for about $125 if you decide you want more. Damn good set up. The H2 is a more universal fit battery. Almost everything that is listed as a 510 or eGo thread will fit. I seem to recall some common heads will not thread on the Ts. Maintenance depends on your liquids and bankroll. Some liquids will load down coils and require cleaning or replacement when the coils gunk up, hence the cost. Others will be less apt to load up. You can usually clean heads well with some high alcohol content neutral alcohols like vodka or Everclear. I use everclear on my tanks as it is more neutral. Your batteries depend on how far you want to go. You can buy the eGo, which is a battery built into the controller, making it disposable (but they last several hundred recharge cycles), or you could go with a variable voltage/variable wattage unit like a Sigelei Legend as an "entry level" VV mod device, or a mid level eVic which really performs among the better VV Mods, or a Provari which house the same batteries as your mech mods. I have several batteries now, essensicially a eGo Twist, an eVic, and a couple mechanicals so my batteries fit several mods. You will need an appropriate charger as well. Your eGos and eVics and the like use USB cables, where your higher end VV/VWs and mechs will need stand alone chargers.

Who manufactures the diesel motor? IIRC it is a corporate compilation of ideas headed by Fiat and Mercedes.

I have done some timing belts in the diesel Jeeps (believe it or not, the local dealership won't do them). Overall they seem to be decent engines. I had a TD Patriot in a few months ago with really bizarre communication issues. It ended up being a shorting wire, a really intermittent short.

FWIW the Hemis are 16 plug motors and use copper plugs. In other words, expect a 16 plug tune up every 30 thousand miles.

I work at a shop where we specialize in Jeeps, among other things (mostly imports). We do a shit ton of Jeeps. The boss decided he needed to specialize in something other than the import market some years back because there wasn't enough import work for growth. He chose Jeeps because of the high failure rate and what is normally a higher income bracket owner. You wouldn't believe the money these people spend on their vehicles.

Mercedes, yes. Sprinter no. What similar year and vehicle Mercedes (truck or car) will this be in? FWIW the head that sits furthest forward will be bank 1. Mercedes-Benz C320 CDI 2007+ Mercedes-Benz E280 & E320 CDI/Bluetec (2007-2009) Thanks! What voltage do you use with the .6 ohm coil? My girls are moving their vape store in the unit next to my shop this weekend. I can see spending a lot of time(and money) over there! You can't run below an ohm on variable voltage/variable wattage devices, the circuitry can't handle the current and will go into protect. You have to have a mechanical mod and high drain battery, so I am at the mercy of the battery. It is at 4 volts on average. But you need to be careful because if you over discharge the battery it will vent. The end result is usually missing fingers or hands, sometimes missing faces.

Mercedes, yes. Sprinter no. What similar year and vehicle Mercedes (truck or car) will this be in? FWIW the head that sits furthest forward will be bank 1. Mercedes-Benz C320 CDI 2007+ Mercedes-Benz E280 & E320 CDI/Bluetec (2007-2009) Thanks!

Vaper's tongue FTL. Having to wail on some Kringles Kurse juice to freshen my taste buds. I have been fucking with my Aqua trying to get the best wick and coil setup. It provides so much vapor and killer throat hit and it is too warm IMO, but it is lacking in flavor right now, and from what I have read it is supposed to be the king shit of tank attys. It is my lowest load build yet, coming in at .6 ohms. All this vape is laying my taste buds flat. I realized today that my Nimbus was tasting weak. I have that thing dialed in to the juices I am using in it (bubblegum and blueberry cotton candy). So that sucks. The Kringles is good, but not really amazing. I just want to get my buds back to where I can enjoy my sweet candy juices. On a positive note, I got my switch magnets today for my Nemesis. They are factory silver plated magnets. Makes the switch actuation much more linear and smooth. It has almost zero mechanical feel to it. They are seriously strong little fuckers. I can set my Nemmy on the table with my Aqua (my heaviest atty) on it and it will not actuate the switch without the lock set. I have read you can stack the magnets to increase tension. I bought 3 sets, so if I decide to, I can. But for right now I am digging the short throw and tension the single mags provide. Plus, I know that they are so strong they can shatter if they snap together. Reassembling the switch with the magnets is a chore, I couldn't imagine trying to assemble it with additional tension.

Mercedes, yes. Sprinter no. What similar year and vehicle Mercedes (truck or car) will this be in? FWIW the head that sits furthest forward will be bank 1.

Fuck Toshiba lappys. Look into Asus for prebuilt.

Awesome. Bookmarked.

I love me some cinnamon. I rail Highbrow Vapor's Cinnamon 18mg all the time.

I just bought a Nemesis clone. It is all stainless, but I wanted one for work. It is a lot easier to carry around a $40 mod than a $200 mod. Stoked!

Chain her to the stove! Fucking PERFECT!!!

Freaky. Did you feel it Seth? I was outside talking to another tech. We heard it "BOOM...boom, boom, boom..." and we both said; "What the fuck?" I didn't feel it, but the sound of an explosion was unmistakable. Sirens started going apeshit and then we saw the mushroom cloud. Just yesterday some fuckin dude jumped off a parking deck just a couple blocks away from the shop, too. Really bizzare shit. http://www.news-record.com/news/article_9b11bf5a-8902-11e3-9cd9-001a4bcf6878.html

Heard an explosion this afternoon while at work and saw a big ol' mushroom cloud followed by a ton of smoke. It was not far from my shop. http://www.digtriad.com/news/article/314683/57/Fire-On-South-Elm-Street-In-Greensboro Damn painters.

Chain her to the stove! They do make women's fire retardant clothing... That's not helpful when you are looking for an upgrade without the need for an attorney...