sandt38

What's not to love? Gotta love a boosted 3.8.

They all are tight to me.

OK, shooters, glass question... Rifle is a Savage Model 12 Varmint VLP DBM in 22-250 trim with a 9 twist. Will be shooting some heavy varmint (45-55ga) for mid-long distance vaminting, 60 gr Nosler partition for deer within 150 yards (they are tuny here and I am a damn good shot), and upwards of 70 grain boats for 5-600 yard show off shit. All custom loads. At this point I want to keep my glass right at $500. I can grab a Ziess Terra 4-12X42 or a Vortec Viper HST 4-16X44 in my range. The Ziess is a 1" tube and the Viper is a 30mm tube. I know the Ziess glass is better, but I like the magnification of the Vortec and everything about it is larger for more light. Should I grab the Vortec for all it's benefits, or is the more entry level Ziess worth it? FWIW the Ziess is $50 cheaper. Eventually this scope will find it's way to my youngest son's .243 until I can save my play money for further upgrades on the rifle and either a better Ziess or Swarovski. I just need something fairly quickly so I can set up and get out shooting.

Solid.

According to common core, 1+1=3

What's with you guys in Minnesota? You seem to be producing terrorists at a frightening rate. I blame the weather.

I don't have a lot of XDrive experience, sorry. I see no issue with a proven tune and the coolers. I cannot give a lot of info about the 2 engine variants other than to say the M5's variant provides ~150 more HP and 50 more #/ft of torque. Odds are this is done by tune, as by all appearances in service info it is the same engine. However, service info may not show subtle differences in cam profiles, exhaust design, intake runner design, etc. that can improve performance. Yeah, IIRC they like to break shift forks in those transmissions.

It does look great, Matt. I trust you know I am just giving you a hard time.

No you're not...

The best one! It is a 2011. Sport package. I'll throw some pics up when I can. It is is a fire breather. It's top speed may not be the same as the alpina, and it may not have launch control like some others but it's crazy fast. Faster than the 550i in 2WD. It's complete sexytime. And good for another 100hp with just a chip if I get bored. Your mechanic will love you... or hate you for it...

They should all be fuel efficient, and have decent power. Turbocharged DFI is really the best way to dig power and economy out of todays engines. I am not recommending them, by any means. I am still a bit standoffish about DFI systems with the issues I have seen... and we are taking Ford here; where quality is job none.

Why? MpG isn't that good. It's hyper expensive. Too much shit to go wrong and isn't comfortable. Comfort is crazy subjective however. In town a Prius gets amazing mileage. I see in town cars averaging 54mpg, and all around cars averaging 45. Honestly, I don't see a lot going wrong with them. The Gen2 units eat water pumps every 75K or so, but outside of that they never break. I have seen them with 300K with the original brakes... as they rarely use the pads for stopping. Granted, the batteries will fail, but I see the failures at ~175K on average. I have a Camry Hybrid torn down right now for a battery build and it has 386K on it... Comfort? Meh, it's a Toyota. They are so-so, but not extremely memorable to the good or to the bad side of things. I hated them when I first started really working on them, but now that about 20% of my workload are Priuses (we run heavy direct marketing to hybrid owners, and I do all the hybrid work in the shop), I have to say that I am actively looking for one (gen 2, maybe a 97). For me, rebuilding the battery will only cost ~$50, and they are extremely reliable. FWIW the average rebuild on the batteries is $1400, with replacements at $32-3600. It is essentially the same cost, and has the same life expectancy as most automatic transmissions. However, finding someone who rebuilds them isn't very easy, as I am one of very few in the country who does it.

You just blew up one piece of shit, why trade it for another? So on dependability, MPG's, service costs, drivability, and comfort who makes the best 4x4 truck now? Gas or Diesel are both options. J MPG would be a Ford with Eco-Boost, but no way in hell would I own one. Dodge/Cummins for everything else.

You just blew up one piece of shit, why trade it for another? Did they fix the head gasket problem on the newer models? I know it used to be an extremely common problem. Not enough time on the new engines to tell what will happen in the long run. They have only been out for a little over a year.

You just blew up one piece of shit, why trade it for another?

Chrysler? They had the water pump weep hole that leaked into the crankcase. When the water pump leaked it washed the bearings.

When I bought my Tempur we got 2 free pillows. They offered us the $120 pillows, but I beat them up for one of the $200 pillows, and the old lady liked the $120 pillow better, so she got that. Great pillows.

Are they truly worth the cost? I'm at just over 3 years on my current mattress and honestly think a change may be in order since I sleep like shit. J I have a Tempurpedic. It is a fucking Godsend.

I chuckled a little bit.

Not at all. It is still a great daily drinker. I usually have a six pack in the fridge. They have released Warlock. It is also a stout from the Blackwater Series (same as Mokah and Chokolat). It is a lower gravity offering than the others (8.6%), and IMO not worth the cost of the others. Fortunately for me, my favorite beer store still has 10 cases of Mokah It is a light to medium bodied stout, brewed with pumpkin, chocolate, and coffee. It is semi-sweet with an odd pumpkin taste initially, and an almost ale like flavor. On the first exhale, it is a strong pumpkin pie taste. I like the exhale, but am still not sure I like the initial taste.

Fortunately my youngest will be a junior this year.

If I had a 1/4" breaker bar it would have fit. Constrained based on the diameter of the ratcheting portion of the head. I may not be as mechanical as you, R1, or Seth but I am not a retard. I tried every combination of everything I could.If I had a double offset box end it would work. Mine are offset about 1" or so, need 2" to clear the sheet metal around the motor. There are other times where something like this would have been useful. Definitely a worthy buy for the future IMO. Semi-deep sockets, perhaps? I have 4 different length "deep" sockets. Snap-On makes great semi deeps.

Alt is working fine. The three others worked fine too. All are charging without issue. I have got to have a bad connection or breal somewhere, but I can't find it. '03 Town Car, 4G alt. I didn't say it wasn't working. Some Fords use PCM controlled alternators. Both the PCM based and traditionally excited alternator have regulators similar in appearance, but they do not function similarly.

Perhaps you need a new alternator? What car?

Side note on coins. Oddly enough ebay of all places is no longer allowing the sale of clad or layered coins. Good for the consumer since people have tried to pass them off as guaranteed shit. Bad if you actually write that they are not solid gold, but just layers, and then they make you take it down. Now to find a way to get rid of 8 1oz clad bars somehow LOL J Most all my coins are proofs from the mint gold and silver. Its the best way to go. No sense in buying elsewhere. They usually don't make it up sky high. J Exactly. What really matters is the precious metals. I have several 1800s silver dollars, and most are worth more in silver than the coin itself.