sandt38

It really isn't advisable to compress test tones. There is far too much information lost.

Awww, shucks... I've been pinned by post 132. Some folks wait their entire lives for that... i would like to thank the Acadamy, my director...

That's in the paid version

Tracks 10 - 17 Track 9 is just a reference track.

Nice saw. I have a Ridgid too, and just can't believe the quality for the price.

Nope. He is the new me. I have been here since 04.

Irony owns you.

Security Screws | Security Fasteners | Tamper Resistant Screws No one will be able to snag that amp with these in there. Use T-nuts so they can't be pulled through, and these with locktite on them.

Today's computer systems are designed to eliminate spark knock/pinging/pre-ignition. Not only is it a detriment to the vehicle's motor life, but it also creates excessive HC emissions as well as spikes in NOx, and it can shorten catalytic converter life. The ECU system uses a knock sensor which quickly detects pinging and will retard the timing, and/or in some cases will open the EGR more then typically mapped for the situation. In all these cases there will be a reduction in power, and a decrease in fuel economy. What I have found is that with today's cars the cost/mile ratio works out to be about the same when you select different grades of gasoline. What I mean is, if you put $20 of low octane gas in the car and typically get 200 miles on it, you will find that you get 200 miles on $20 of high octane fuel as well. So there is really no savings by putting in low octane gas. As a disclaimer, I am a 30 year technician with my ASE and AC Delco master certifications.

I don't see an EQ being a worthwhile investment in your case. Your issue is as plain as the nose on your face... It is a convertible. Convertibles are hindrances on both sound quality and SPL.

0 offenders 7 non-mappable offenders LOL I've always done my best to be an offender... just not that kind of offender

As a general rule modeling programs try to get the enclosure design as close to a .707 Q as possible. The basic premise is to achieve the flattest response, and the lowest F3 possible. But in a vehicle, or any room really, cabin gains will take effect, fattening up the bottom end of the response curve, and again creating peaks at the cabin's resonance frequency. This is an example of an in car TF graph. You will notice the peaks from 30-40Hz, the roll off, then the vehicle resonance frequency spikes again between 60 and 70Hz. If you take a flat .707 design from an anechoic based program the end result in this car will be a peaky response at resonance, and climbing again down at 30-40Hz. The bottom end peak will be less evident, of course, as we will see roll off from the cabinet, but it will still be fattened up because of the gain. So use these programs and consider their response plots with a grain of salt. They really just provide baselines for us to work from, nothing is set in stone.

Yes, I prefer WinISD, and yes I have all 3 programs (BBP, ISD Beta and ISD Pro). ISD uses classic calculations that are closer to what should be expected for real world anechoic results. BBP seems to manipulate results. In most cases they are closer to manufacturer recommendations. Why? I am not really sure. Maybe they take into account an average vehicle cabin or something and therefore it assumes an in car response. No matter, really, as the QTS of the system should really only account for the cabinet and the subwoofer, as those are the only "certain" and fixed variables. Assuming a cabin gain, or room size, or room shape into the total system Q is assuming too much IMO. Please keep in mind, whichever program you use, that the enclosure and it's response curves, SPL, impedance curves, transfer function curves, etc are based off of either an in room response (BBP) or an anechoic chamber (ISD). When you place the system in your vehicle, the curves will change in relation to your vehicle. These programs are simply baselines for you to work upon, they are not response curves set in stone. As far as worrying about the fill in the port, with the air moving in and out of the port, and how much the fill bonds to itself, I wouldn't worry about it. When you get your hands on the fill, you will see what I am saying. It isn't just going to fall apart and come out of the port. Can you put the mesh there, if you are really worried about it? Sure, I don't see why not. Am I certain it will not affect the tuning at all? No, I am not certain. But if it does affect port tuning, I would think it would be so nominal that it would not be audible, maybe 1 or 2Hz. As far as the mesh on the outside... I can't say for sure. But like I said, I don't think it will effectively alter port tuning to an audible level. If someone were to come in here and argue and say I am wrong, I would respectfully bow out and not argue, but logically it would seem to me that it wouldn't affect it much more then a couple Hz. Does it decrease port area? I don't see how, as it shouldn't affect the length or width of the opening. It is more likely added to reduce turbulence, port noise, or "chuffing", similar to aero ports

When you click on the rar file you will see this (without the red circle) Click the extract button (circled) and you will see this Just click OK (circled). It will create the folder for you in the same location as the downloaded file, and extract all the files in the folder, leaving you with this open it and you will see this

From the reviews I have read they do very well up to 2KHz., but according to the pdf it does well up to, and maybe slightly beyond 2.5K IIRC... but it has been a while since I looked at the PDF... My initial intent was to use it as part of a 2 way front stage, so yeah it will do very well with midrange duties. ...But... Deepen the midrange? I am not sure what you are looking for. What do you have in the front stage that you are looking to "deepen"? Is this an aftermarket component set, or a stock front stage? Should I assume that you are looking to pull the image forward by lowering the HPF? If so, yes. This will get down low and dirty. But I would hate to give you any misinformation, so if you can clarify I will try to give you some information based on what you are looking for. So please try to include pertinent info, like the equipment you are using, the vehicle it is in, driver locations, and what your exact goals are. One thing I always try to do is give advice or opinions based on the person who is asking the question's goals. Nothing is more irritating then seeing people trying to talk everyone else into what they would do, not what is best for the user and system in question. Everyone has different tastes, as musical enjoyment is subjective, where the actual exact reproduction can be, to a great extent, objective.

Does it matter where you place the fill? i.e. along/around the walls? bunched up in one corner? I have not really heard tale of an ideal stuffing, but I would suggest placing it as evenly as possible around the entire enclosure. Personally, I usually just toss it in the box and let it do it's own thing, just making sure that it will not hinder the cone's travel, and a pound of fill will take up a whole cubic foot. The theory is the fill slows down the sound wave, so logic would dictate it would be best to hinder the sound wave equally throughout the box. Remember, that any type of disturbance will travel via the easiest path of resistance... everything in nature does. So with that in mind, I have just made it a habit to fill the whole box rather then packing it tight in one location and not another. Some people prefer to use screen, mesh, chicken wire, or whatever to keep it tighter to the walls and I assume they have similar success with it, so I guess it is really not a science... more of just a do what seems right to you kind of thing. One thing to keep in mind, if you get the fill in a port, it will also slow down the wave, effectively lengthening the port. Outside of transmission line cabinets where port lengths are absolutely enormous, it is not really recommended to get fill in a port. Also, Bass Box Pro has an option to get the Q or the enclosure design based on using polyfil. But to be honest, I don't like the calculations that BBP uses in determining the optimal enclosure for the driver in question. I have found that even with a light fill or even no fill selected, the ideal cabinet size is way off when compared to a classic calculation like that of WinISD. So if you opt to use the BBP methodology, I would be safe and select the light fill option, and pack it fairly heavily. But keep in mind, that the response plots shown may differ wildly from the actual response in an anechoic chamber. If I were in your shoes, I might try packing the cabinet you have in there already, and see how the system behaves in your vehicle, before going to the trouble of building a new cabinet, only to be dissatisfied with the results. At least you will get a baseline of the behavior you can expect in your vehicle, with the driver in question. It may save you a lot of time and hassle.

I wish i could recall where I read reviews. I might try CA.com or DIYMA. I have read 3 reviews all claiming breakup nodes from somewhere between 2 and 2.5K. I am not surprised, really, as this should be expected with aluminum cones, no matter how hearty they are constructed. Were I to make a single change on this driver, it would have been a pulp cone. cvame918, while I am not impious I will provide a little insight. The first thing to consider is the Anarchy is an 8 ohm driver, so be sure you have the ability to power it correctly. The ZR is more of a dedicated midbass driver, where the Anarchy will be very happy into the midrange. In looking at the usable frequency response of the ZR (50-500Hz) it will be very safe to assume it has a fairly high inductance, although I have not found a published LE specification. The higher inductance limits it's frequency response as well as it's speed. While they will both get nice and low, with authority, I expect the Anarchy to be punchier and more responsive down low as well. It will be more transparent, where the ZR will be more of a silky smooth driver. The Anarchy's XBL2s BL linearity will be an improvement over the overhung design of the ZR as well, making it more accurate. Aside from the power issues, based on the loads of the 2 drivers, the Anarchy will best the ZR in every aspect from an objective point of view... Subjectively, however, it is difficult to render an opinion, as most people don't like sub bass, and midbass drivers that lack distortion.

If there was no noise before and there is now with nothing changing but the amp logic would dictate that it is either an amp issue, the RCA got damaged upon R&R to the new amp, or the pico got popped on the swap, or that the ground terminal may not be quite good at the amp. But whenever I do noise or any other diagnosis I always try to start with the most logical things as if it were a brand new installation, and nobody had every touched anything before. By starting with a totally clean slate you know you have exhausted any outside possibilities without having overlooked them. My initial order of operations would be grounds, RCAs, pico, then amp. I have been a mechanic for decades now, specializing in driveability, computer, and electrical diagnosis and I am the guy that cars come to when they can't be fixed. So I often wind up working after someone else. If they give me the history of things they check I just toss it out the window. I always want to start fresh, so as not to overlook anything. You never know if someone else only half-assed checked something... and wouldn't it suck to overlook something that was already overlooked because you assume it was properly checked? Be thorough.

The most common issues for noise are grounds and bad RCAs. Today's high low level voltages really do a great job rejecting noise, so we rarely see issues arise from running RCAs next to power. In the past I always ran them down the opposite sides of the car, but nowadays i bundle all the cables together. But sometimes we see issues with RCAs separating internally at the connector. Run a spare set of RCAs to the amp, just to ensure they are not the issue. Grounds are the most common issue. I know you said you spent a lot of time cleaning, and I do as well, but ensuring the ground is on a solid piece of stock is important. Also, star washers that bite into the steel is important to aid in good contact. Make sure that the amps are all grounded in the same place. If you have multiple amps and multiple grounds, you could very well be creating a ground loop. Finally, remove the HU and create a good ground for it. I always create a new ground to a solid point on the chassis. My usual location is on a brake pedal mount bolt. As important as brakes are, you can be certain the way the pedal is mounted is very secure, and it should be an excellent ground point. Internal low level fuses can be an issue. Hotswapping can pop the Pioneer "pico fuse". Pioneer isn't the only manufacturer that fuses the low-level, but theirs seems to be the weakest.

Family Watchdog or the department of justice: http://www.nsopw.gov/Core/Conditions.aspx?AspxAutoDetectCookieSupport=1

That's creepy. I only have about 40 people total within 2 miles of my home. FFFFFUUUUuuuuuuuuuuuuu I'm jelly. Less is more. I could deal with NO ONE in 2 miles. I love the boonies. I can walk out on my front porch and shoot my rifle or my bow, and nobody cares... I even have 3 ponds on my property, all stocked. That's the way i like it.

3 5/8" Impious, I am actually very interested in hearing XBL2 in the midbass/midrange region. The way they handle subbass with such transparency, I can only imagine how they will sound where it matters most. I would love to get a hold of the XBL2 tweets that Dan has designed as well, but I have no idea who bought the design. I have read about some breakup nodes starting at or around 2K, so a notch may be in order for a 2 way. TBH, that is why I am considering using them only for the midbass in a 3 way, although I may actually cross them a little higher then I normally would in a 3 way design. I guess it will just be best to drop them in some type of install and start measuring, but I have so much on my plate right now that this will have to wait. Are you a TOOL fan or just an Alex Grey fan?

That's creepy. I only have about 40 people total within 2 miles of my home.

I go out to the shop and measure them today for you. My biggest issue is the diameter of the motor.

The motor is a beast. I don't know if you clicked all the images, but this one shows the ES-06 without the boot for a better comparison: The top plate is really awe inspiring. The thing that amazed me was the weight. When they showed up at the shop the box was huge and weighed so much I thought they doubled my order accidentally. I was shocked when I found 1/2 the box stuffed with paper. I really wish I could get a bit more room inside the doors, and I may just do a little spacer add on just to get them in and give them a listen. I really want to hear these things. So i may just do it some time in the near future for a goof.