sandt38

It really sucks. The market is absolutely primed for buyers with the low housing costs, big deals builders are dishing out, and super low interest rates available right now. But unfortunately the banks are just sitting on every dime they have. They just are not giving out loans. I am in the middle of a refi on my primary home (looking at an almost 2 point drop), and even with 4 rental houses they are giving me a tough time. I would hate to be buying my first home right now trying to get a loan. The only reason my son got his loan was because he had enough money in the bank to buy the condo outright... but not very many people can do that. Stated is a tough way to get a loan. They really screw you with interest rates. Over the past decade or so it wasn't too bad, but right now I bet you couldn't get a new loan on stated income anymore.

My bad, I read someone else's sig. What amp, what sub, and what else is in the system? Some amps have dual LEDs for the power and protect, others have a single with 2 colors, green for power on and red for protect mode. Did you check for power at the remote turn on, and for main power? We need to be sure that it has not popped the fuses for the remote and the main power.

G-BODY FTMFW!!! Putting a Ford motor in such an amazing car FTMFL!

I use a long tool designed specifically for fitting belts around pulleys that are hard to reach http://www.handsontools.com/OTC-7654-Serpentine-Belt-Installation-Tool_p_6212.html I also use the extended tools for releasing the tensioner: http://www.amazon.com/Wrench-3680-Serpentine-Tool-Piece/dp/B0002WSFTO But TBH the old school style works really well too: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00941831000P?vName=Tools&cName=Auto&MechanicsTools&sName=Auto%20Specialty%20Tools&sid=IDx20070921x00003a&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=00941831000P In many cases the old 3.1 Chevy motor (the platform for the SOHC3.4s) required us to remove the little plastic plate that has the belt diagram on, the one monuted just above the water pump, which is the smooth pulley on the left side of the motor (facing the front of the engine, it would be the right side). But in more recent years they made it fairly accessible without removing it. I suggest getting the belt around all the lower pulleys, particularly the grooved pulleys, and work your way up to the water pump pully. It will slip on the smooth pulley easier then the grooved pulleys with their high lands to keep the belt in place. Also, it is rare for a serp belt to just break. Check to ensure you didn't have a pulley locked up. Those things eat up the bearing and pulley assys on the AC compressors.

I have heard the 6 1/2s and they do deliver. The Anarchys will have more output, simply due to the added displacement, but they may be a bit dry for you from what I have read of your posts. Also, the Anarchys are 8 ohm units, requiring about double what the Peerless require. Remember, typically 100 watts RMS at 4 ohms equates to 50 watts RMS at 8 ohms. Also, these are really huge motors. If I were to get something for a car door to handle the midbass chores, I might look more into the CSS SDX7, keeping in mind that these are dedicated midbass drivers. But here again, keep in mind they are still 8 ohm units. Also, they simply do not have the same high frequency extension that the Anarchys do. You might want to look into the ES-06 from CDT. That is the driver in the comparison pics I posted above. It has extension similar to the Anarchys, and it is a driver with more presence.

You know what sucks? When you have your heart set on something, then you skimp out and settle for something less rather then saving your money for a couple more weeks/months... then you get it done and it just doesn't quite do what you want it to do. I always say, don't settle. If you have your heart set on the AA, you will always have that nagging "what if" in the back of your mind. I say save the money up, and save yourself a piece of mind.

Is the amp even coming on? I saw no mention of any LED indicator, or mention of the amp in protect mode, or any other such thing. This is such a simple thing to look for I can't believe no one even asked. I see you have 2 amps. I assume the front stage amp is coming on. How are the remote turn ons wired? Do you have a relay or did you daisy chain them, or did you run 2 separate leads from the HU? Does the sub work when you have the radio turned on? Not the CD player or what not, but the FM radio...

Fuck that. What happens when you die the day you retire? What happens if you travel too much and get to be 65 with no retirement fund? Hope the Democrats are still in office, duh. On a more serious note, I believe in investing in my future. I work for myself and have a savings account. Got any suggestions for investment? Cause buying a house is starting to seem like a joke. If you're one of those contrarian-types though, now would be the best time to buy a house. Mortgage rates are the lowest in 50 years, plus home prices are better for the buyer now. On a $200,000 house 1 percentage point on the loan interest translates into a difference of about $120 per month, which translates into $86,400 over the life of a 30 year loan. I don't know about you, but that's a really good chunk of change and can make up for quite a bit of stagnant home price years in which the value of the home does not go up. Plus you have to ask yourself, if you're going to live in this house forever, who cares about resale value? All you're doing with a lower valued home is saving property tax each year. That sounds good to me. And how long do you expect this housing crisis to last? 30 years? I doubt it. Even 5 or 10 years? As for where to invest, it depends on your timeline IMO. But you can always just go back to the old mix of stocks and bonds. China is expected to have explosive growth for the next couple of decades, they've already started. They had something like 8% growth last year while the US was still marred in recession. If you think the US will be stagnant for the next 5 years, don't be afraid to look at emerging markets and countries. But IMO, if you're an active investor, there will be plenty of opportunities to make money in the US market yet. Just stay away from penny stocks. Don't get caught looking for the quick 10-bagger as it will ruin you. I just figured up last night that if I wasn't stuck with the three penny stocks that I have that are losing money for me, I would have earned 19% since I began investing last January, which rapes the market return of about 7% when adjusted for market value when I added money to my account a few times over the last 1.5 years. Instead, I'm stuck at an 8% loss and just hoping these pennies will go back up just so I can break even. My boss has recently advised me on the value of doing covered calls with dividend-paying stocks. You not only get dividend, but get money from writing call options. It may limit your upside to 10-20% if the stock gets called away, but don't be greedy. It also protects you for about 5% to the downside just because of the income you get from the dividend and writing the calls. Plus if the stock stays put, you can continually write calls every month if you want and just keep garnering the money from it. Just gotta have a long term approach and not worry about day-to-day or even month-to-month fluctuations. As far as the house is concerned KU is dead on. While it is tough to get a loan in todays market, the rates and the drastic drop in pricing make it worthwhile to do it NOW. My son just bought himself a condo in Orange County CA. He has been looking for 5 years. The boy just knew what he wanted. He looked at a condo when he first started 5 years ago that was 1200Sq feet that went for $420,000. He bought the exact same condo 3 months ago (it sold to someone else in the interim) for $186,000. Not only did he save ~$235K, he also got a better interest rate by almost 2 points. As far as investing, as someone who made a fortune in the 90s in the stock market and lost a fat wad in the early 2000s I can tell you one thing... don't ever take anyone else's advice. Everyone is so quick to tell you to do this and do that, but if it really were making them money, I am not sure they would be telling you much about it. Do the smart thing and get dialed in with a financial adviser. They can sit down with you and develop a plan that will work best for you with your specific goals in mind. But you really need to get on the stick with it. Retirement isn't far away for any of us... time flies. As for me, when I am ready it will be golden. Sell my rental houses and my house, take all my money and buy a villa in Italy... 10 years to go and i am on the right track.

Please broaden your veiws on the statement in red. Most people prefer distortions in these ranges as the seem louder because of the distortion. The drivers tend to provide more of a presence. Ask many people who have heard a Brahma MKII what they thought about it. Being super linear many people felt it was non-existent in the system, or too laid back not enough impact.

Fuck that. What happens when you die the day you retire? What happens if you travel too much and get to be 65 with no retirement fund? Entitlement programs FTMFW!

For any vehicle bearing an average load I always fill to 32 PSI, with the understanding that friction from the road will cause the air in the tires to expand and actual moving pressures should maintain roughly 35 PSI due to expansion. We don't have a nitrogen pump at my shop. If we did, we would set the tires to 35. On vehicles that bear heavy loads, like the local news vans with the microwave masts, I fill them to 65. On the big satellite trucks for them I go 85. Keep in mind that the recommended pressure is pretty much universally 35 PSI. By increasing the tire pressure to 40 you effectively increase it's stability with an added load, but when you run a standard load with higher pressure you reduce tire/road contact surface and therefore also reduce braking and acceleration efficiency. Also, the tires make the ride more rough. Another thing, by increasing the pressure that significantly you will see more wear in the center of the tires to the outer edge (assuming a common toe-in setting). TBH, the nominal gains in fuel economy will not outweigh the wear on the tires when it all comes down to dollars and cents.

I know you meant to say it is a shame when your hobbies and lifestyle takes away from your car audio...

Is that NET volume or gross volume? How much port areea, and to what is it tuned to? Because the BTL doesn't sounds loud enough to you doesn't means it's not getting the 1700 watts. Actually, as stated above by KU40 and myself, the sub will likely never reach it's full output potential. However, that is not an issue with the amp, it is simply how dynamic impedance functions in a loudspeaker system. The bottom line is, the amp is set with the DMM and is showing the proper voltage. This being the case, we can rest assured the amp is set up to deliver the proper power. Now he needs to focus on the real reason for it not being as loud as he thinks it should be... Install

This is purely an SQ install, right?

Those are some damn fine terminals.

Hoho... nice movie. Pretty decent story line, lots of effects etc. And words cannot express what I will do to Gemma I was disappointed in it. I saw it at the show and wish I had waited 'till it came out on BluRay. While the special effects were sweet, I liked the original better.

They are called torx. The ones in the pics are called tamper proof torx, or security torx, or safety torx. You need to be careful because they do make 5 sided "star" drive screws as well.

FWIW it is really best to model the system in an enclosure program, check the impedance graph, find the lowest impedance by frequency and run tones at or around this frequency. The point at which the dynamic impedance is lowest is the point at which the amplifier will be delivering the most power. Also, it is worth noting, the sub will typically reach it's lowest dynamic impedance at or around the enclosure's tuning frequency in the case of a ported box. But it must be stressed that just because the system is not putting out the birthsheet power of 1700 watts doesn't mean you can turn up the gains any more. Dynamic impedance will actually never reach the manufacturer rated RE... or I should say, I have never seen a case where it has. But just because the system will not make the rated 1700 watts, doesn't mean you can turn the gains up to that point. If you turn the gains up beyond the point where clipping occurs, it will clip no matter what the measured output actually is.

I do woodworking as a hobby. I recently built a new workshop, and have been kicking around a more solid entryway then the cinderblock steps I have been using. A forum I frequent is a woodworking forum, and I asked some opinions from guys who woodwork professionally as well as just guys who have been around it a lot longer then i have about what entryway they would choose, albeit a ramp or stairs or what have you. The resounding reply was a ramp. But we started debating the fact that wood gets slick in the rain, and I don't want a steel grate that will allow grass to grow under it. A few guys said that they have just used bedliner on their ramps with great success. These are guys wheeling equipment, and wood, and large products in and out of their shops. I would say if it can stand up to that kind of abuse, it could stand up to subwoofer enclosure duties. For those of you who care, I am doing a 4X12 landing and a front ramp, with steps on 1 side and a "loading dock" on the other, as it is almost the exact height of the gate on my PU there.

The wattage will not change. The load will be the same no matter what, unless you buy different subs. The installation issues at hand could be sunwoofer placement, firing direction, a poorly designed or constructed box, box flex, vehicle panel flex, the trunk being too sealed off, poor crossover settings (including but not limited to SSF settings), among many, many other variables.

Not anymore: congrats on the new subby

As was already stated, if you have achieved the recommended voltage, the gains are set. The amplifier is delivering it's output voltage, and the sub is providing the required load. The electrical demands have been met. End of story, period. Every install has different variables that will affect the sound quality and output of it's components differently. If not, every competitor with a BTL would have the exact same score every time. You just expected too much... Start working on other install variables and stop, stop, stop with the gains before you have a dead BTL and an even more dissatisfied friend. There is more to installation then just putting an amp in, building a box and tossing it in a car.

DUDE! Don't look now, but someone stole your seats!

Bree Olsen, Sasha Grey, Jenna Haze, Faye Reagan, Asa Akira, Jessica Bangkok, Zoe Britton, Nautica Thorn, Bobbi Star, Penny Flame...ok I'll stop now... MMMmmmmMMM. I like Jena Haze.