sandt38

I don't buy equipment because of the company that is listed on the box. I buy based on the quality of the component(s) within the box. I am not saying I think Jacob would turn out a shitty product, I am just saying I buy based on my needs.

No, connect the ground to the outer lugs of the connector and the positive lead to the center. This is AC current, not DC with the vehicle as a ground. And what is the model number on the Sony HU? I think some of those you have to go into the menu while it is off, with the vehicle on in order to turn on/off the subs.

What car? What HU? What terminals did you measure across?

Mighty Taco! We would close the bars and head to 7-11 and get those hot dogs... then smother them with that nasty ass cheese sauce they had. Those nasty things were likely the reason I got colon cancer

How did you test the RCAs?

Hells yeah, I forgot about the cider. I loved the hard cider at the cider mill in West Seneca... Down off of Transit... I wish I could recall the name of it. Anyways, I enjoyed reading and reminiscing. Thanks for the rant. And KU40, it isn't really an issue with maturing. I am twice Jordan's age, and still miss it. There is a certain atmosphere, attitude and the personality of the populace as a whole. We would do anything we could to help out other people. If a buddy lost his job and couldn't pay the rent we would throw a kegger and gather enough cash to help him pay the rent, or go up to the Rich (I guess I should clarify, The Rich is what we called Rich Stadium, which is now Ralph Wilson Stadium, home of the Bills) and collect the bottles and cans in the lots just to help them out (at 5 cents per empty you could get a big payback real fast). We were all like a family, maybe that comes from being snowed in all winter... all we did was hang out indoors and party every night. We were always there for each other, all the time. I have lived and visited all over the country, and have spent time overseas, south of the border, and north of the border... I have never seen that level of commitment for others like we had in Western NY. It is the best place in the country... except for the damn snow in the winter.

go through the menus on the HU and turn the subwoofer back on.

That isn't really because they are "Long throw" in as much as the long throw typically requires a longer coil in the gap. Most manufacturers tend to use the overhung coil, which is a long coil one that extends beyond both ends of the gap, as it maintains a pretty linear BL, and it also increases powerhandling. But the downside is this longer coil raises the inductance of the driver and driver speed is pretty much dependent upon it's inductance. Here is a white paper on the subject... although it may be a bit over your head, you may gather some information on how a driver's function is affected by it's inductance. http://adireaudio.com/Files/WooferSpeed.pdf The W0s are not actually "crisper" drivers, they are actually more distorted drivers... That is they have less linear BL (motor force) and less linear CMS (suspension compliance), creating distortions that are actually pleasing to many listeners. I know a lot of people like to rag on the W7, but it is actually a pretty impressive driver, with regards to innovative design and linearity. Like I said in the other thread, most people actually like distortions in the subbass and midbass regions.

So you have the full range driver running at 250 hertz and the midbass running to 500? There is the reason for muddieness when you raised the crossover point to 500Hz. You are likely having serious cancellation issues for one thing. Also, the sterility down low is due to one of a couple things... The low QTS, and/or cancellation. Cancellation could be occurring because of the door rattle or the phase relationship between the 2 midbass drivers, or possibly due to the relationship between the overlapping midrange to midbass frequencies, coupled with their issues that revolve around multiple pointsources. One big thing I see in your previous install that you liked is a BIG deal. It is something i NEVER take for granted. Even if i will be forced to suffer some shortcomings brought about based on the install, I always, always, always want my front stage drivers right on top of each other. I want a single pointsource. The benefits are simply overwealming, with regards to image, and realism. Why do you think that all home speaker arrangements are based on this platform? By keeping the drivers close you accomplish 2 things. One, the phase relationship on each side is really damn close. And second, when i am listening to a guitar or a female vocal I don't notice the vocal or instrument plays half down below my eyes, and the other half above my dashboard. We can work this by angling the tweeters, and admittedly I may manipulate the pillar a bit with some heat, or I may just go ahead and try another attempt at glassing... and admittedly I really suck a fat bag at glassing... I hate it. But the Mille's midrange is frikken sexy when tubes open them up. If the door is rattling you need to address this area first. Also, you need to be sure the airspace behind the driver is completely close off from the front of the driver. Next, if that doesn't clean things up, try swapping the terminals on the passenger side driver. While this is not going to truly fix a phase issue, it will get us heading in the right direction. One other thought, a little out of order, try to steepen the upper crossover rolloff, say from 12db to 18db or even 24db per octave. Once the SLS gets to about 600Hz it rolls off pretty quickly, but it peaks again. Slow slopes may be introducing the driver's weekpoint. Keep in mind that the crossover cut off is not immediate, it is gradual. If you start a 11DB slope at 500Hz, and the driver is delivering 112DB, the driver will still be delivering 100DB at 1000Hz, and 88DB at 2000Hz... still fairly significant. The same set up with an 18db slope @ 500Hz with the driver delivering the same 112DB will see an output of 94Db at 1000 Hz and then the driver is delivering 76Db at 2000Hz,,, Likewise a 24Db slope at 500Hz with the driver delivering 112DB will see an output of 87db at 1000Hz and 63Hz at 2000Hz. The numbers look significant in that regard, but consider 3DB is 1/2 the measured DB readings and 6 is a perceived DB shift of 1/2. Now, back to those drivers on the dash... The fairly high inductance makes me believe these things are rather muddy and disoriented up top. Further, the simply do not have the displacement needed to keep up with the midbass drivers. Third, up high like that you are also suffering a ton of refraction, creating phase relationship issues all over the place, as well as excessive brightening of the upper treble region. I might try cleaning some of this up, just for testing sake, by getting several towels out and covering your dash, windows, and a pillars... basically any hard reflective surfaces near the drivers. Be sure to do this when you are testing out the things I suggest, so as to help eliminate them as being an issue... or at least reducing the effect their shortcomings may have on the rest of the system. My thought is, fix the rattle issue, seal off the front of the driver from the rear, and play with phase relationships. You might be able to try building an aperiodic membrane to house the rear of the drivers. I have seen people use a couple sections of screen and sandwich a bunch of polyfil in between them, then cover the back of the drivers. Maybe that will give you a bit more perceived midbass impact. I am thinking that since the SLS is a very good driver for your intended application, you should really try working on the details surrounding it that are more likely the issue then the driver... you know, spend less money, but at the same time you will be getting an education on how to manipulate speakers, isolate issues, and how the surroundings affect the way the speaker behaves in an installation. There is no guarantee that the driver itself is not the issue. It is a fairly linear driver with a low total Q, making it fairly sterile. I like to say drivers like this evoke emotion more then aggressive impact, but it has decent displacement and output... fairly common among drivers several time's it's cost. But reproduction is objective and one's personal enjoyment of the reproduced music is subjective.

I always loved the XR comps. The rubber surround aluminum dome tweets are sexy.

Do you guys know why my wife wore white on our wedding day? Because I like the dishwasher to match the refrigerator.

I think something that is important is that you can't have even pathlengths in the car to your ears, so localization becomes almost impossible to avoid. I prefer to have everything on front of me that I can. If I could figure a way to get 3 feet of cabinet in my dash i would have my subs there too, but I can't. But, to mount them low in the doors shouldn't cause them to stage low, as midbass is not easily located on the vertical plane. I have a feeling that this localization is more likely an issue with your midrange crossover point, or perhaps something hindering the output of the driver... sorry, but I haven't seen any real info on your midrange or crossover points. Overlapping crossover points can create cancellation and possibly localization issues. One thing to remember, EBP is a specification, or to be more accurate, a formula that you can't really use to determine midbass or midrange driver alignments. Based simply on their high FS they will always become "ported" favoring drivers. I am getting the feeling that you are more interested in a smooth silky driver, rather then a dry driver. As I mentioned in the other post, I am not terribly certain that the Anarchy will fit the bill for what you are looking at. While i expect more output from it then the SLS, I expect it to be similar in regards to how dry it will perform. Like I said in the other thread, you may want to be looking for more like a CDT ES-06 or perhaps a totally dedicated midbass driver like their ES-06+. Maybe Rainbow Pro-Fi Kicks... But you need to work on sealing up the doors, and getting your crossover settings right. It may be more helpful if you could get a single post with all the pertinent info in it. Crossover points, drivers, placement of the drivers including where they point to, how they are mounted (on an MDF panel, or direct to sheet metal, or plastic adapters, etc), HU settings, amplifier settings, any sound deadening, and EQ (if you have just low/mid/high settings on your HU, those settings as well please), phase of the drivers, and have you played with phase... stick everything you can think of in a single post, as I have a hard time searching the threads and keeping it all in order in my head as it is so random and disorganized. Pics of driver location and relation to panel openings would also be terribly helpful. Also, include information on all gear you have as well, model numbers and the like. It would be great if you could give us an idea of what kind of money you have budgeted to the whole midbass system, including but not limited to deadening, amplifier, and drivers. Finally, let us know if you can fabricate MDF rings or adapters, if you have any opposition to building aperiodic membranes for the drivers, etc. I have a lot to do today, but I will try to help as best as i can either tonight, or maybe tomorrow...

I'm from Buffalo too, and I know what you mean. I left because of the weather and miss the people, the food, the Bills and Sabres. I miss the festival of lights, and the Falls. ANCHOR BAR! Broadway market and perogis. The pink flamingos in the front yards of the Polish folk in Cheektowaga. Blowing out of class and smoking bowls in the pines. I am an old dude, I remember seeing Nabissco Shredded Wheat when you crossed the Grand Island bridges, my grandparents both worked at Moore Business forms right up the street. The smell of those storage tanks right there by the bridges. I spent several years in LaSalle after my parents divorced... we lived with my grandparents while mom went to school for he pharmacy degree, and I remember when they raised the gates and set the guards up outside the Love Canal, just a few blocks away... do you remember that? The biggest toxic waste dump in the history of the US, and I lived right there, watched them dig it up, I remember the hate commercials of Hooker Chemical who sold the land to the city of Niagara Falls for a dollar so they could build a school on a toxic waste dump. Midnight fishing off the breakwall, bars open 'till 4 AM. Partying at Big Tree before the games or for the weekend when the Dead showed up... whip-it balloons all over the place and the sound of nitrous tanks filling them up. Riding down to the family property in the southern tier and being blown away by the colors of the fall leaves on the hillsides... and ohh, the roadside stands with maple syrup... remember the big fat fresh maple leaf shaped chunks of pure maple sugar candy? The Blizzard of '77... I remember the drifts up to the second story windows of the house... THAT was a Buffalo winter... shoveling the driveways and as soon as you're done the plow comes by and pushes that heavy bank of snow and ice right into the end of the driveway... Drunken nights riding around pulling people from ditches in our trucks with cases of beer shoved into the snow in the beds of our trucks. The Peace bridge, the "Canadian Ballet" and duty free cases of Labatts at the bridge. Heading up to Toronto and getting kind black Lebanese hash. Younge street bars FTMFW! Growing up in Western New York is a privilege, and the people were the best in the country... and I have been all over the country. I feel your pain. I miss it too. But then I remember the weather, and I become a little more comfortable about my life now. The seasons were a big reason I moved to where I am at now, in Central NC. I get winter (4 whole inches of snow a year!) spring, summer, and fall... not like SoCal where we got summer 24/7/365. I got depressed in the fall with no leaves, and at Christmas wearing tank tops and shorts... Christmas is time for cold and snow. It has been about 25 years since I have been back, and I plan on taking my family there next fall for a Bills game. I am hoping we can work it out where we can catch a Bills game and a Sabres game... It is going to be weird going to the Raplh, and not the Rich. I plan on going to places I worked, my old school, maybe seeing if Brennans is still open on Union road in West Seneca. I used to throw league darts for them so many years ago. I am looking forward to riding on the Skyway, and the Scajaqueda (I never could spell that).

As a landlord myself I can tell you it is not smart to buy a $200,000 house to rent out. People renting out big houses are not usually there for long. I have a big house like that I rent out and 3 smaller houses in not so nice neighborhoods. The big house was my last house, and rather then selling it we decided to rent it out. We found that it sits vacant and rolls over more then the others. People renting these houses are usually those who have had an issue in their main home, such as a fire or whatnot, that requires them to be out of their house for a few months, or people building houses in that area and wanting their kids to warm to the schools before hand, etc. They are just very temporary renters. The smaller houses rent quickly, as they are cheap, and they are in areas where the average renter can't afford to move real quick, you know first and last months and paying for a moving truck is a struggle. Yeah, maybe it seems cold renting to people who simply can't afford to leave, but it is business.

I agree with most of this, but I have to ask, if you get a financial planner, aren't you taking somebody else's advice? Just playing devil's advocate here. I'm not saying don't get one, I sure as hell believe a majority of the people in this nation need one (or really, needed one several years ago). But with that said, I think you'd agree that there are several guidelines to investing in a general sense. But if somebody has a stock tip I'd be leery. A few months ago my brother told me that his wife had heard from her dad who was told by his broker that a stock was the next big thing and was ready to explode. And this guy had "never lost money on a stock he bought." First off I find that impossible to believe. Second of all, he probably bought the stock a month or two ago, so it was old news by then and the excitement was already priced in. Sure enough, I looked and the stock had quadrupled in the last 6 months and I was like no thanks. It hasn't turned out to be a typical pump and dump, though, as the price is just above where he bought it 6 months ago I think. But nothing to write home about and some really bad news just came out last week that makes me even more leery and glad I didn't get in. So I think the bottom line is just to not sip everybody else's koolaid. Make sure and do your own analysis, and remember that you'll get some wrong. Harvard grad economists can't agree on where the economy will go from here, and they can't both be right. Just be patient. Yeah, it is taking someone else's advice, but really these people know how to invest wisely. They aren't going to tell you to buy this stock, they are going to lead you in a direction of intelligent investing... Actually, I think dem said it very well: Most people entering investments tend to expect they will hit it big all at once. Oftentimes when we start to see our first few investments become big gainers we tend to think our investing is invincible, and sooner or later something is going to bring us back to earth really fast. Yeah, the guy who "never loses money on a stock he bought" isn't the guy who is still working and spreading the wealth. He is sitting on Grand Cayman getting a hummer from the local honey with a Mai Tai in his hand. And like you said, usually by the time a real tip trickles down that ship has long since sailed. In the stock market minutes can make a difference. I have an example... Back in 99, maybe 2000, I got a tip on a company called Digital Lightwave (DIGL). I went ahead and bought it one morning for something like $12 a share. It shot up the same day to about $90 a share. In the time it took me to call my broker and get it traded it dropped back to about $84, and it cost me thousands of dollars. Of course, i still made thousands, but i could have made a lot more. But trades like that don't happen often. People tend to either think you are full of shit that never happens, or the expect it to happen every time. This is where financial advisers can help out the young investor. They will help reel you in and keep you on a steady course of investing that meets your goals, rather then an emotional rollercoaster of wild, uncontrolled investments.

I figured I would share... I bought these a few months back dirt cheap. I was planning on using them in my car, but they are just too damn big for my doors. I wanted a bit more bottom end up front then my Hertz Milles were delivering. I love the Mille tweet, but I missed the bottom end of my CDT ES-06s. Anyways, I took some shots of it next to my ES-06. A single Anarchy weighs in at about 8 pounds apiece. For comparisons sake, the box with both my ES-06s weighed in at 6 pounds. I thought the ES-06 was huge when i first got them. Bigger then any other 6.5 mids I can recall having my hands on by a long shot. Without a doubt they are the heaviest mids, by a mile... I figured i should share some speaker porn... All the following images are clickable links to the larger image, to save on load times. Due to their size they won't be going in my car. But I think they may help push me into the 2 channel home audio system I have been planning in my head and procrastinating on for the past 7 years. The plan is a Dipole system, powered by tubes. The Anarchys would do great in ported boxes at the base of the dipole speaker baffle, which will help reduce platform size because of the weight. The plan is some Seas mids and Planar tweets to round out the chores. I have the Anarchys and ES-06s if you guys want more pics.

sandt38, Thank you for that information. I have gotten more info. from you in one post (in your thread) than I have in my own thread asking for help/suggestions. i will do some reading on the speakers you've listed. Link me to your thread and I'll see if I can help.

You need to get a test light or a multimeter and check both the main power cable, and the remote turn on lead. If using a voltmeter, select DC Volts, and select the setting that will allow you to test for roughly 12 volts. You need to be sure the amp is being turned on and is getting the juice from the main power cable. If either is not showing ~12 volts you need to check the connection at the amp, and check the fuses. Then check to be sure that the RCAs are delivering signal with a multimeter. Select AC Volts and try testing at around 5 volts. You need to be sure that the amp is receiving the signal it needs to amplify for output to the sub. If there is no AC voltage, check the HU to ensure that the subwoofer out didn't get turned off on accident. Finally, after all this has been checked, hook the multimeter across the speaker terminals and set it to AC volts and test it at around 20 or 30 volts. If the amp is getting turn on power and the main power is being supplied, and you know that the amp is seeing the low voltage signal from the HU to be amplified, it leaves only 2 things, the amplifier or it's on board fuses. Check all fuses on the amp. This is, of course, assuming that the 3 subs you have tested in the system are not all blown... clearly this is not very likely

That is entertaining. Clearly you don't know what you are talking about. Reduction of the information down to 192 is a reduction of 7:1. Nobody can honestly believe that there is a ratio even close to 7:1 of information that you cannot hear in any recording. Try reading up on the subject.

Prayers to you man. You have some of the most excellent enclosures too, it's a shame those of us in the US won't be able to enjoy them. But what matters is that you take care of your health. Get well, best of luck, and may God be with you.

There is no rocket outside of winning the lottery. I horde my money and still haven't found that rocket to wealth.