sandt38

It is really simple. While the speaker has a rated impedance, the only time you really ever see this rated impedance is just sitting there.However, with power being sent to it the impedance changes all the time. This is dependent upon the enclosure and frequency. I know you have seen the SPL guys talk about box rise. Anyways. most enclosure programs will have a dynamic impedance graph on them. Dynamic impedance is important when designing for a tube amp system.

Just think how many farts have been JAMMED into that poor seat..... I bet I tried jamming something else into my old lady's poor seat more then that...

Very good Also keep in mind that dynamic impedance is lowest near tuning, when the cone is not moving much, and therefore it is seeing more power at that point then any other. Also, the coil gets a lot hotter under normal use then the sun will heat up the door. Therefore the speaker will still dissipate the heat as heat travels from hot to cold.

Let's not even pretend that will happen... and I won't say which point I am referring to

A sealed box won't retain that much heat, and a vented box does not aid in cooling. In fact, ported enclosures are more likely to thermal then sealed... Why? Sealed will increase mechanical powerhandling, but it doesn't really have any affect on thermal powerhandling. The fried coil is more a function of clipping then the door it was in, or the enclosure, and it won't be affected one way or the other by the box he is planning.

Well, eventually you are going to reach that point of diminishing returns. When you get up to the point where you are spending $1000 for a front component set, the differences between that set and a $1400 set won't be very apparent to the average listener. Unlike the difference between a $150 component set and a $500 component set where the difference will be huge. Eventually you will reach a point where you realize that suddenly you are no longer hearing a difference. But there will always be someone who will, and maybe that tiny difference means something to the guy that can hear it, and maybe it is worth it to him to spend that money. It's all subjective, really.

That's disappointing. What was the other set in the same install? What was it you didn't like about the L4? I am curious as I have never actually heard it before, but I have heard very good things about it. I have heard the L6/L1 pro in a nice install, but never the L4. With that said, though, like I posted in another thread I seem to hear greatly exaggerated things about the Legatia set. A few people were talking about off axis dispersion clean to 4.5kHz, but no way... Beaming still occurs at ~2.5K no matter what you do with a 6.5" driver. I've heard the Vifa TG9 and the Scan 15m. It was more than a year ago, one clear thing I remember I didn't like was some voices sounded raspy on the top Given it's price it wasn't much much more impressive than the TG9. One year is a lot to remember the exact sound so don't flame me No, that's cool. I like to get as many opinions about things as I can if I don't have first hand experience. I like to hear the bad, as often times you get fanbois stoking up products, and with my experiences with the HAT fanbois thus far, it is nice to have an unbiased viewpoint. I liked the L6/L1pro. They were silky and guttural, which is definitely a nice trait for a midbass IMO. They could have been more snappy, but you can't have everything. But you make it sound as if the guttural trait carries over to their midrange driver, which IMO is not a good thing for midrange. I don't like closed off vocals. I would expect better then TG9 performance for what HAT gets for their gear. I appreciate the honesty!

No, they are all 4 ohm drivers.

That's disappointing. What was the other set in the same install? What was it you didn't like about the L4? I am curious as I have never actually heard it before, but I have heard very good things about it. I have heard the L6/L1 pro in a nice install, but never the L4. With that said, though, like I posted in another thread I seem to hear greatly exaggerated things about the Legatia set. A few people were talking about off axis dispersion clean to 4.5kHz, but no way... Beaming still occurs at ~2.5K no matter what you do with a 6.5" driver.

I almost mentioned that when you asked previously... What is your upper crossover point going to be?

So you are looking into a 3 way set with the Peerless and CDT? The ES-04 is considered one of CDTs finest offering, but it comes at a price. It is a very high dollar midrange, but it is a high quality unit as well. Their DTR26 is a very nice tweeter module, and if you keep the tweeters down low like the JL install, I would recommend the DRT26A (the aluminum module). It is similar to the XR tweeter but it doesn't get muddy where the JL did on occasion. It does have a bit more shimmer then the XR does as well. But if you are going to be putting them up high, on the dash like where the extended range driver you have now is, I might suggest the silk module (DRT26S). The reason I suggest this is refraction off dashboards, windshields, and side windows can make hard dome tweeters very harsh. The DRT26 is a unit that you can actually pop the dome out to change just the dome from aluminum to silk, or titanium, depending on your tastes. If I were to go with a full CDT 3 way i would look into the ES-06+, ES-04, and the DRT26 with the dome module based on the info I provided above. The ES-06+ is a very dominant midbass driver, the ES-04 is a beautiful midrange and the DRT is a very sweet, accurate, and superb tweet. I heard a lot of good about the more entry level CDT stuff, and I tried some and was disappointed. The midbass is excellent all the way down the line, very smooth and silky, but I am not a fan of their lower line tweeters, and the majority of their 2 way passive crossovers are absolute shit. They use really high crossover points and have a lot of beaming issues and muddy midrange issues because of them. Their marketing gimmicks like the ridiculous "effective" crossover slopes and imaging tweeters, etc. is a bunch of big box blind the n00b with complex terminology BS that needs to be ignored. What I am saying is, you need to be careful. While they do have some nice gear, they have some real crap as well. Now, the Hybrid Audio Technologies Legatia line offers a 2 or 3 way set that is completely active, so you could get a spankin' midbass, nice midrange and nice tweet without paying for the crossover. While I have not heard the 4" midrange what I have heard about it is positive. There are so many other options out there as well.

You should look into hurricane nuts. T-nuts are kinda tough to get into MDF. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=081-1084

it refreshes on it's own, I think. But it doesn't do it immediately

I notice you don't have it. So is it going to be on mine for a temp time like a probation period and if so how long? As part of the tech team, I am a global or super moderator, so only an administrator can give me junk. From my screen everybody has one, even those with 29,000 posts

It is for the mod staff to give demerits, so to speak. Enough bad ju-ju and you get a vacation.

Oh OK, I didn't realize it was an outboard. I don't know much about them, sorry to say.

Aaron (Denim) stuck it.

On the truck? Those pulleys have an expansion slot in them, are you sure it is cracked? I have seen that happen, but not on Chevy trucks, and it is VARY rare. The whine is likely the pump cavitating. Check your fluid level, and check it for bubbles. Top it off with regular Mercon/Dexron automatic transmission fluid and check the system for leaks. Chevy trucks are bad about PS lines. If you find a leaking hose, don't use NAPA hoses. I have found they almost never seem to fit right. We stopped using them at the shop after we had a run of about a dozen that didn't fit right. Good luck!

The higher ups like me.

You must have come here by way of CAF!!! I left there for the same reason. Welcome to SSA!

HA! I never saw this... I don't remember, it was years ago (2004) and I didn't come here much then. I honestly forgot about it... But I have known Denim for a while, and he PMed me at CAF where I am a mod and sent me to HAF. From there I was browsing, and saw a link he had to here and I clicked on it... Well, I had to be signed in to view it, and so I took a shot and signed in with my usual forum name and pass and viola!!! I was in! I read the post that was linked that was posted by Impious and was impressed... It looked like I could have a techy to talk to here (I miss the CAF heyday when we had solid technical discussions) and I decided to jump in. Well, it wasn't long before the guys asked me to be on the tech team here (200 posts FTW!) and now here I am with 300 posts and a killer position on a cool board. Good thing for me too, as I had stopped going to CAF about a month before I found this place. Sadly what was once a Mecca of technical discussion, where I learned a ton, has become just a site where everyone wants to know what sub is uber excellent with the ultra-mega-deebeez!!! and Bassfreak's worthless, kindergarten level ramblings filled with pre-school like spelling and grammar... So I am back here by way of HAF, Denim's link, and Impious' intelligent post. You can thank those guys for my being here and Denim for my promotion

What fuel system and motor? You know, you can take a section of fuel/pcv line and bypass the fuel filter for diagnostic purposes. On a lot of Chevy throttle body systems that is essentially what I do. I have a section of brass with threaded ends that slips right in place of the PF481 filter, and I have a quick disconnect threaded into the side of it where we stick my fuel pressure gauge. This way I can see if it is blocked (if I stick this inline and the truck starts I know it was blocked), and check fuel pressure all at the same time. At any rate, in most cases these are low pressure systems. Unless you get into the L or K Jetronic mechanical systems or the GM Vortec systems with the mechanical poppets you usually see fairly low pressure systems. You can figure 10-13# systems on throttle body systems and maybe 30-35# systems on port fuel systems... Just simple fuel hose with clamps is a safe method of bypassing and testing these systems. If you want help, just let me know the boat year, the motor, and some information on what you have tested and what the symptoms are. I fix cars, but most boat motors are just reverse running Chevy V6s anyways.

kinda like the majority of your recent posts eh?

I plan to again soon. I had my tongue pierced and my nape peirced. I couldn't squat with the nape though so when I started lifting classically again I had to loose it. I never got a tattoo but I would really like to. I just don't know what I would want. The W loves tattoos though. I have not had any artwork done in a long time, and I am getting the itch. Get a brabus tattoo. or //AMG Haha, would be weird when I am driving my future daily commuter that will probably be Japanese. I just threw up in my mouth Tattoos make you queezy?

Hey... promoting other forums is against the rules... Now I get to try that ban button you gave me