sandt38

Welcome to PassKeyIII and GM's databuss. IIRC, they have a 5V output for the accessory wire, of course that could be vehicle specific. 5 volt is common, although data bus will see a lot less. They rely on very low level varying voltage inputs to read a lot of information across a single line. Aside from actuators and heaters most mfgs use 5 volt references for everything.

Are you sure you didn't just bump the interior light switch?

haha wtf Spammer, and he has been handled, thanks!

Jennifer Aniston is 41 and still looks that damn good. I would eat her in a heartbeat.

You spilled something on it, right? Looks like it may have gotten into the memory slots. I would jerk the RAM and clean the terminals with isopropal alcohol.

Interesting. I have no problems with my Knuconceptz Kompression fittings. I read so many nightmare stories about them but bought the dual amp 1/0 ga kit, and haven't had any issues. I even had to remove and replace the wires a few times as I changed things up in my trunk. You have to measure the amount of wires you strip to expose properly though. I can see them not working well if you strip it too short or too long. I have also read a ton of nightmare stories about their RCAs... But I use them on my front stage amp (I wanted all blue cable in the trunk, as all my amps use blue lights, my HU is blue, everything is blue), and have used them in a few friends' installs as well. Anyways, my 2 cents is they are a really decent method of contact. I am using them now myself and I am quite pleased.

Not too sure on the 3d program, but as far as the other stuff, the i3 would be fine. Admittedly I like to get the biggest and the best when I buy something, so I would jump on an i7, but if cost is an issue, the i3 will be enough. As was mentioned, plenty of RAM. But do some looking. Sometimes when you build a rig it costs more to get the RAM installed by the mfg then it does to get more of your own. I recall you have a Dell. My experiences with them of late has been pretty bad. We have several Dell Desktops at the shop, and we have been repairing and replacing them constantly. I bought a Dell desktop a couple years ago, and it rattled. i couldn't figure out why. I couldn't get my card reader to read my memory cards most of the time, then one day i pushed a little too hard (because i was pissed) and the reader fell back into the machine. when I pulled open the case i found my noise and my problem. The reader was never screwed in, and the ribbon wasn't plugged into it well at all, causing intermittent contact. But, we had one at the shop a few years back that lasted about 7 years (no problems there) and a co-worker bought one a year later that lasted 7 as well. So i don't know, maybe their quality has recently gone down hill. I have had nothing but luck with HP. I am currently on a 3 or 4 year old HP laptop and it still does damn well for most games, internet, etc. The DVD burner really sucks, though. I also have 2 HP desktops, 1 is 10 years old (no shit) and the other is about 5. No problems. Just my opinions and experiences. Look at NewEgg and Tiger Direct for some killer deals. I have dealt with both and had great service and experiences.

Agreed. I like information regarding performance, not flashy pictures. I am into what it does, not how it looks... or I would have a car full of Audiobahn .

You need to consider what you are going to be using it for. Some programs are more processor intensive, and others are more RAM intensive.

I would reinstall the Maxxlink. A line driver is very beneficial for noise in the system. While I am generally not a fan of Maxxsonix, I believe it will benefit the system as a whole. Having a line driver is a really nice feature, and with the noise issues you are having it just makes sense. Good luck, and let us know how it turns out.

I had a tandy 1000, and if you count it a comadore. Comadore 64 or VIC20? I had both. I was a badass too, I even had the cassette tape for additional storage!!! No clue what I had! lol. I played the turtle game on it like a pro though. (cad) and a TON of ascii art. The 64 was the big boy, it was brown/tan. The VIC20 was white.

I had a tandy 1000, and if you count it a comadore. Comadore 64 or VIC20? I had both. I was a badass too, I even had the cassette tape for additional storage!!!

Good deal. I didn't want to do all that typing only to find out it wasn't a line driver. Maybe if I wasn't so lazy i would have Googled it to be sure..

IIRC the maxxlink is a line driver too, isn't it? If this is the case it will lower the EMI/EFI noise floor in the car, as well as amplify the signal to the amplifiers, making them require a lower gain setting. This would explain all the issues you are having. First, as a line driver it will lower the introduced noise/desired signal ratio, reducing EMI/EFI introduction while the car is running. This will essentially mask any ground issues, RCA shielding issues, or any other input side noise introduction. Second, when you removed it you decreased the input voltage (since you removed a line driver), which means you need to reset the gains correctly. Finally, with regards to the RCA signal, you effectively double the input voltage by using a splitter. The voltage will remain the same across the split, so now instead of a single 2 volt input (for example) you now have 2 2 volt inputs for a final input voltage of 4 volts. Anyone who runs plate amps in their home system will tell you they have significantly more output from the amp when they use a splitter from the LFE out to the amp rather then a single LFE feed. There is no negative impact whatsoever in installing a y splitter.

About that sponsorship e-mail I just sent you... That has got to be irritating. I could see myself just hitting delete on those "sponsorship" emails without even explaining myself. Of course, if you want to sponsor my addiction i could use a nice 2 channel to power my Anarchys

There was one of those in blue for sale up the road from me just a few months ago. Never been a big fan of wagons, myself though.

Maybe he needed to feel quasi-inteligent ? Quasi-intelligent, total jackass... I won't argue semantics

I'm on my way broseph!

Why do people always have to have an explanation of how things work, then they question your logic? I had to explain to some dude why only 1 side of his AC was cooling and not the other. He swore that the AC made the air cold, and refused to believe that it just removes the heat from the hot air. He couldn't accept heat transfer across the evaporater which was reduced because the low freon was the reason why. He stood over me like a damn hawk, and when it was done and froze his ass out of the truck he said he still didn't believe me. Jackass... go flip some burgers, leave the fixin of cars to the grown men.

Still the most badass cars ever built. Not much of a motor, but I might be able to make it run fair enough

Depends on what processing options or set up you want. I plan on a Pioneer DEX-P99RS (http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Products/CarAudioVideo/In-Dash/CD-Players/DEX-P99RS). But my cheap ass nature is preventing me from dropping those duckets on a receiver. The DEH-P880PRS (http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Products/CarAudioVideo/In-Dash/CD-Players/DEH-P880PRS?tab=B) is also an option. While it is discontinued, it can still be found. Then you have stand alone processors. Audiocontrol makes some of the best. Look into the DQXS. I like the dash mounted control for those as well. I am thinking about running my Milles and the Anarchys in a 3 way. I figure the Milles in a kick pod and the anarchys sealed up in a door box. I am still on the fence about which route I will be following, albeit the AC or the p99. I really like the P99, but I might opt to go with the AC instead... Who knows though, I may do like I already said I would do and leave my system alone. I am very pleased right now, and I just don't know that I have the want to anymore.

I am just not a fan of expecting such a small speaker to provide such a dynamic range. I guess it is more a personal preference, but I would never do it. Sure, tuning will be much easier, but the reality of the situation is that a 3 way will work better. As the small driver is pulling such a high workload from the lower register, reaching a fairly high excursion and realizing a rise in Qts where Bl is becoming markedly more parabolic, you are demanding the driver to perform such delicacies as the harmonics or decay from a cymbal crash... it is just not a recipe for good sound quality. I personally feel with all the work J is putting into it, he will be able to get it tuned right. It isn't like so many other active installs I see where people just toss drivers in and set their crossovers and call it active... he is working on manipulating the speakers' behavior through enclosure design and placement to suit his goals. I think he can get it done.

I am just not a fan of expecting such a small speaker to provide such a dynamic range. I guess it is more a personal preference, but I would never do it. Sure, tuning will be much easier, but the reality of the situation is that a 3 way will work better. As the small driver is pulling such a high workload from the lower register, reaching a fairly high excursion and realizing a rise in Qts where Bl is becoming markedly more parabolic, you are demanding the driver to perform such delicacies as the harmonics or decay from a cymbal crash... it is just not a recipe for good sound quality. I personally feel with all the work J is putting into it, he will be able to get it tuned right. It isn't like so many other active installs I see where people just toss drivers in and set their crossovers and call it active... he is working on manipulating the speakers through enclosure design and placement. I think he can get it done.

Oh snap! Dont u live in an apartment? Where did u have it at? Yeah. It was on my back porch. I didn't have anywhere to enclose it. I'm so full of rage I'm not sure how I'm going to work today. Sleep last night definitely wasn't the greatest. Woke up for an hour at a time a couple times, just watching my back porch light and listening to my apartment actually hoping somebody would show up so that I could beat the fuck out of them. I had two dreams and both were about it. I live in about the nicest part of the city, nothing out here is more than 10-12 years old. I thought I would be away from that shit. Bummer man. You know, the best place for a thief is in the newer, nicer apartment buildings. Easy access (it is just a byproduct of apartment life) and the quality of the items are far better then they are in the hood.

If you have the HPF set I would think it would bypass the SSF. If not, I have read that compounding filters like that can do weird things to your crossover point and slope. I usually just use a single crossover because of it. Why do you want to get rid of the EF61s? I bought an EF61FG/TW25pro component set and the crossover and tweeters were horrible, but the EF-61 mids were actually pretty decent. If I didn't get such a spankin' deal on the ES-06 I would have been happy with the EF-61 mids in my door w/ the upgraded EX-550i crossover and DRT26A tweeter I bought to clean up the awful top end. The EF-61 is a really solid midbass for the price.