sandt38

OH NOES!!! Here it is FWIW:

It is an SV9 Competizione http://www.evo.co.uk/news/evonews/238990/sv_9_competizione_supercar.html http://www.worldcarfans.com/109072220607/sv-9-competizione-based-on-c6-corvette

Some people don't mind paying a little more for better quality stuff. I pay very good money for my gear, because I expect it to perform at a very high rate, for a long time. I don't mind spending more money on my amps than you have in your whole system. In fact, the majority of my gear, in individual pieces, cost more then your whole system. The only thing by itself that didn't is my sub amp, which happens to be a Cadence ZRS amp. When you stop and think about it, that says a lot. I have $600 in subs, $900 in front stage amp, $1000 in front components, and a $150 Cadence sub amp. Did you catch that? If someone spends that kind of money in an SQ system and buys a $150 sub amp, that speaks volumes about the quality of that amp. Perhaps it isn't worth it to you, but to me it really is. I have exactly what I want, it sounds amazing, looks great, delivers a clean, pure sound, and it is extremely dependable. Perhaps people just want nicer things. Just because you can't afford it, doesn't mean that others can't, and it doesn't mean they shouldn't. Cheap isn't better... in fact, it is usually a sign of cost cutting measures... or a possible concern over long term dependability. Also, not a single amp listed will break the budget at all. Everybody's suggestions fell right within, or just a shade over the OP's set budget. Nobody is recommending anything based on a name, the above suggested amplifiers are all really solid performers at great prices. There is no stigma associated with any brand listed, they are all small company units. Nobody is recommending JL because of their big name status, they are recommending amplifiers they use, or have seen in use, that offer rated or better, very reliable, and dependable power. No offense, but I would never put an Audiopipe amp in my car. I have never seen any testing done on the amplifier at all, and as far as reliability, it hasn't been out long enough to prove that it is reliable and dependable, and frankly it is pretty dirty power. Besides, your sig says the gear is coming soon... so I have to ask, are you basing your suggestion on first hand knowledge, or just blindly suggesting gear? Finally, your opinion on the matter is not the only one that counts. In fact, seeing as how you recommend the same amp all the time, it is important that the OP realize this and consider the suggestion accordingly. This is a forum with varying opinions, and experiences. There is no "/thread" like you suggest. And as far as the dickhead comment; You might need to grow up a little. It is about that time. If you are old enough to have your driver's license, you should really act like it.

No, on a rack and pinion steering they are quite different from the gear box steering with a center link like you are used to with the truck. With a rack you have to remove the outer tie rod, remove the dust boot from the rack, and unscrew the tie rod from the rack itself. They look like this: To the OP... I went to the book and checked. For the 4 and 6 cylinder cars they give 4.6 hours for one and 5.2 for both. The book calls for rack removal. But I have never had to remove a rack as long as i have had the tool. With that being said, we rarely ever see bad inner tie rods on racks. While I used to see a lot of them, they have gotten really good with them in the last 10 or 15 years. I bet I have done maybe 2 or 3 in the last 10 years, and all but 1 of those were because they were bent, from railing a curb or going into a ditch. TBH, I highly doubt that the issue is the inner tie rod.

I have seen many wrong diagnosis for rack noises. It is extremely rare that a bad inner tie rod is bad enough to make noise. While it is possible, it has been years since I actually heard a bad inner tie rod. I am not sure if they rent the tool. They may, but being a mechanic I own one, so I can't say for sure. I will look at the manual and see what the big deal is, but I highly doubt you have to pull the whole rack to do the inner rod. Generally they are accessible with the right tools.

Looks like a Porsche of some sort.

There is no bowl on this mower. 9 times out of 10 if the carb has a primer bulb it is a direct feed carb with no storage device like a fuel bowl, otherwise it wouldn't need a primer bulb as fuel is already in the carburetor . And to the OP, sounds like the diaphragm is screwed. Just get a kit for it and be done with it. The mower doesn't matter, what matters is the carburetor. The Scotts with the 5.6 hp briggs may have 2 or 3 different carbs. Some may be CA emissions, and some federal, etc.

I have been using Makita for years, and I hesitate to use anything else. I might get the Ridgid drill because they have lifetime warranty including on the batteries. But this set was bought to replace a 9.6 volt Makita set i have had for years and use at work. As a mechanic, my drills see a lot of use and abuse, and my drill has far outlasted everyone else's drills (B&D, DeWalt, and Milwaukee). But it is old, and while it still works it gets hot and you can just tell it is getting tired. Since I am from the north, I have more experience removing frozen bolts, so I usually wind up doing the drilling, so not only has my drill lasted years longer then the other guys', it also saw more use in the time theirs were still alive as well, so it has not only been a better drill, but it has dominated the other brands. I also have a high end Makita 12 volt at the house, and I also took the duffel bag, one of the batteries and the impact driver to the house, and left the rest at the shop. But yeah, you have heard right. I only buy Makita, and I buy them based on my personal experiences with them. Not only that, but I recommend them very, very highly.

w00t! Got my Makita 14.4 volt set today. Drill, 3/8" impact driver, flashlight, drop light, 3 batteries, charger and duffel bag. It is really sweet. But I am a frikken douche. I took the LED panel out of my regular corded drop light and stuck it in the new drop light. Sometimes i really need to think before I do shit. Anyways, the light started to flicker, I was thinking I didn't get it plugged in well. So I pulled the lense off the drop light and pulled on the LED panel and it all fell apart. It melted in the damn socket. Yeah, dipshit here didn't think that the LED drop light panel was in an AC light, and the 14.4 is a DC light. I got the base out of the new drop light, but now i have to replace that panel for $32 again.

You have to have a special tool to get the inner tie rods out. It is a long tube with a hex or flat sided receptacle on the end to fit over the flats of the inner tie rod. It has a 1/2 inch square drive for your ratchet. They are usually really tight in there, so an impact is best. Plus, you will have to have it aligned when you are done anyways. There is not really much to learn about it, so I would say the knowledge you gain will be pittance. If I were you, I would save the time and money on the tools and have a mechanic do it... and hat is coming from a professional mechanic. If you are getting a clunk, i suggest you get someone in the car with the wheels on ramps or on the ground (you want them with weight on them, as in the air they will move freely) and have them jerk the wheel from side to side. Check to be sure the rubber mounts for the rack are not wasted, allowing it to shift and thump. Also make sure the rack mount bolts are tight. Contours are bad about those mount bushings.

Who's trolling? Someone makes one comment about how all you ever do is post the same amp for every single situation and they are trolling? And speaking of being a dick...

You are aware that there are other amplifiers out there, right? You need to expend your horizons a bit. To the OP, I like the Cadence ZRS amp. I have been using their amps for a decade now, and they always do better than rated and are exceptionally reliable... I still run a ~ 10 year old Z7000HC (1500@1 class AB) on my Brahma in my hot rod. The ZRS amps are very solid amps, and I am actually using a ZRS6000D on my subs in my daily driver right now. It puts out rated, and then some, has a nice small footprint and doesn't even get warm. The output is quite clean too.

I used to keep tarantulas, but never lizards. I almost bought a Nile Monitor as they had several babies at the shop where i got the supplies for my spiders. But then I spoke to someone I knew who had one. I had no idea they got so big, and aggressive. Hers kept eating his way out of his box and shredding the sofa. One of my sons used to keep chameleons. He had one that was about 4 feet long, but he had to sell them when he got an apartment.

Hey, BTW, I hope things go a little better for you today Aaron.

And reputation!

. . . Based on the Taurus chassis. My uncle is building them. It is attractive, and I know people are flipping out because it is much less truck then it used to, but it makes sense business wise and practicality wise for Ford. But it's still an Exploder.

Depends on a few things really. Does the priming bubble seem slow to recover? That is, does it stay collapsed? On the carburetor, does it have 2 fuel lines coming into it? What brand? On the carburetor, does it have a bowl or are the lines a direct feed into the side of a small square shaped carb? A few things come to mind. If it does not have a bowl, I see a lot of the pump diaphragms go bad, and a carburetor rebuild is on the menu. These carbs are really simple, just a few parts really. Just get a sharp razor blade, a can of carb cleaner, and the carb kit from your local NAPA. Keep the gaskets you take off the carb in order, as you will see several gaskets in the kit that you won't use, and each has some very slight differences. Really the only thing that I see go bad on these (unless you leave it sit and the gas goes sweet) is that diaphragm, and replacing it should be all you have to do. The diaphragm will be under a plate that has a round bulge on it. But I like to clean all the passages with the carb cleaner real good. Second, if it has 2 fuel lines I see those stupid lines break inside the tank all the time. While the single line that feeds the bulb may be good and it will prime, the one that feeds the pump diaghram will be busted and you will see a lot of air bubbles in it, or it will be void of fuel altogether. Third, if the bulb has a hard time recovering you either have a collapsed of clogged fuel line, or a clogged carburetor port that is creating a vacuum on the line prohibiting fuel feed. I use Nationwide for all my homeowners, automotive, and landlord insurance. Generally you get discounts if you choose to carry multiple policies with the same company. It is worth asking your agent about.

I had the same problem with my mother's laptop. I went to her house and got it hooked up, then the next day it wouldn't connect. So i went back over there the next weekend and hooked it up again, it didn't even work for a single day. Now it refuses to connect. We finally just plugged it in. Hers will work plugged in though. Oddly, she won an iPad and it works frikken great on the same router. I would love to hear some input on this too.

Oh don't argue semantics.

Survival of the fittest.