sandt38

I have to amend this. I missed the fact that it was AC regulated. You need to have some type of a voltage regulator on the DC output. Basically I would run the vehicle and look at the output voltage. To achieve this you can add any load whatsoever. I don't care if it is just a 12 volt lightbulb, you need to prevent the output from being a dead short. So take the 2 wire DC output, put a bulb in the circuit, and use a DVOM set to DC voltage with positive at the positive, and the negative to the negative. If it is supposed to be a 6 volt system, you should see 6 volts across the load. A 12 volt, 12 volts. Expect to see a slightly higher output (say 7 and 14 respectively) as the output needs to be slightly higher to charge the battery. Does that make sense?

It's AC Regulated before the rectifier. The Zener is ONLY to protect the rectifier. Backfeeding voltage into a rectifier can fry the other diode's thus netting me a $40 expense or $10 and some soldering time and frustration. A zener allows a backfeed if the voltages are too high. The rectifier should handle the AC. there should be no backfeed after the rectifier converts it to DC, unless the output voltage is skewed by a bad rectifier.

It is a rectifier, and the resistive load could be any load on the system. If you were to have no load in the diagram, and someone were to follow it to a T, you would have no more rectifier bridge. Sean, why are you wanting to use a zener? Is there no regulator in the system?

Use a scope or a multimeter. If you go to DC on a meter and it displays a constant, likely (12 volt is most likely) voltage you have DC current. With a scope you can just look at the pattern. Sorry, I meant a zener diode protecting current from going back in if I run an AC line in parallel with the DC coming out of the rectifier. And if that is what you were telling me, it went right over my drunk head. So you want to add a diode after a rectifier? Why? Rectifiers are diode chains. They convert AC to DC. I know what the rectifier does. I have 2 12AC lines. I want one <12v DC line and one 12vDC line. (Tail light and brake to an LED) Most cheap rectifiers cannot handle AC on the outputs so if I run the two in parallel I may fry the rectifier. In this case the "cheap" rectifier is $40 so I don't want to cook it. I know I can just build my own for both leads and add a voltage divider and be golden, but if there is a way to make sure the output is zener protected of the rectifier that I have I don't have to do jack. Hell the rewiring is almost plug and play at that point and won't even require the soldering iron. I realize that was confusing. I just am not sure how to test it without having access to the diode bridge on the inside. I work with electricity every day. I will generally be working on drivability stuff for ~8 hours of my 10 hour day. I stare at diagrams all day long. And the sad thing is, I can't read a trouble tree. I generally have a hard time putting words into pictures or actions... which in my professions is likely a good thing. Trouble trees tend to lead people the long way around and they usually wind up with the wrong diagnosis. I think one of the best examples is a Ford DPFE test. They want you to remove the wiring harness from a sensor and the EGR solenoid and the ECM check for continuity on 6 wires. Then check for vacuum going to the solenoid, then remove the EGR valve and check for carbon, if all is well, replace the DPFE. This diag would take about an hour to an hour and a half. I read the "description and operation" section of the system I am testing, pull up wiring diagrams, and go my own route. After doing so, I figured that I could easily test everything in the system by simply starting the vehicle, and grounding the EGR solenoid. If the car stumbles and/or almost stalls I have tested and proven the entire system works. All my wires are in tact, there is vacuum to the EGR solenoid and valve when it is opened, and the passages are open (if they were plugged the valve would open but the car would not stumble/stall). I can have it diagnosed in ~5 minutes I guess instead of babbling I should just say, have you got a diagram of your system? If so, I can tell you if it will work

Got the new Soundgarden album. It kicks ass. Reminds me of their old stuff. I hate when bands change their sound to reach the mainstream. Very solid.

Almighty Whitey? So far... Flobama DJ401k IllumiGotti Goldman Stacks Cheif Exucitive Flossifier George Dub Ya-Yo Kush MC Morgan Once I get posse we will be the Sekkund AmendGrunts. Protecting the rights to school other weak ass MCs. How about bad mofo... it fits

Use a scope or a multimeter. If you go to DC on a meter and it displays a constant, likely (12 volt is most likely) voltage you have DC current. With a scope you can just look at the pattern. Sorry, I meant a zener diode protecting current from going back in if I run an AC line in parallel with the DC coming out of the rectifier. And if that is what you were telling me, it went right over my drunk head. So you want to add a diode after a rectifier? Why? Rectifiers are diode chains. They convert AC to DC.

Nothing succeeds like excess... No, wait...

I don't know, BO seems kind of lame to me. It is the same shit over and over with a different backdrop. But I don't like FPS games... Now, Assassin's Creed III is pretty fuckin awesome.

they sure did get off there lazy asses and vote BOOM!. Obama keeps the pimp hand strong. And the 'getting the Country on its way out of the shitter' hand weak. J http://www.examiner.com/article/dollar-no-longer-primary-oil-currency-as-china-begins-to-sell-oil-using-yuan

Ohhhhh fuuuuudge!!!!

Use a scope or a multimeter. If you go to DC on a meter and it displays a constant, likely (12 volt is most likely) voltage you have DC current. With a scope you can just look at the pattern.

Clearly you skipped several pages. You should get out more often. Yeah, he can't drink a case of Schell's online and act human, but when he goes out he can slam 3 pitchers and breathe a .00. Clearly getting out is beneficial to him and those of us forced to view/skip over his drunken multi-posts...

No shit.

Thank God. I was thinking he hasn't been able to play much golf since he started campaigning this spring.

I love it. It took Obama exactly 3 days after his re-election to shun people he promised to support. http://www.breitbart.com/Big-Government/2012/11/11/Obama-Won-t-Fight-For-Gay-Marriage-His-Second-Term

So I took the new scanner for a spin today. I just farted around with cars I am familiar with. I am glad I was familiar with them. The vehicle set up is very simplistic. No reference info is given. It vaguely asks for body and engine, but goes no further. Fortunately for me I knew they were referring to the body code and engine code, and I knew those for my vehicles. FWIW I received a message that I was out of range of my wireless access point and that all information would be delivered via cache, not through online access. Perhaps the online access would dictate what digit in the VIN each code would be. For me, GM, Chrysler and Ford will be simple, but I have had some oddities with Suzuki code placement, and Nissan code placement, and I know the Euros are very weird with their VINs. Of course IIRC the Tech 2 (GM's factory tool) asks for information the same way, so perhaps that is what they are going for. By contrast my Verus, allows me to input the entire VIN and the Verus, my old Mastertech VCI, and my OTC Genesis (and every other scanner I have used) prompts you for the specific digit of the vin for the line, body, engine, year, and in some cases transmission coding. The functionality seemed to be all there. All the expected PID lists, special tests, system tests, functional tests, etc. were there. On my 96 the cylinder balance test did not function correctly, it killed the car completely. I am interested in playing more tomorrow. I have a 2012 Chevy Sonic in the shop right now with a pair of codes for the electronic thermostat. My SnapOn was at home, and I didn't have the Maxidas updated yet, so I had to use the worthless shop scanner, and I could not actuate the thermostat. I have honestly never worked on an electronic Tstat, so whether there is functionality with my Verus or my Maxidas I am uncertain. I will also have a few Kias, Hyundais, and Suzukis in there to mess with. These vehicles are the primary reason I got this unit, so I am curious as to how well it works with them. Hopefully setup will be more intuitive with the Koreans than it was with the GMs.

I want a something that can get that when driving easy and have the power to drive like a hoon My friend's dad owns a used car business. Took a buick with the supercharged 3.8l for a drive one night. I think it was sold for 5-6 grand. decent hp/$ ratio And if you spend a couple grand, you can really lay some power down. I have kicked around the idea of getting a Regal GS. All that muscle in a lightweight Buick Century body. I hate their damn dashboards though.

Hello...

Wash my clothes, bitch!!!

I took my family out for dinner tonight. My son and his wife's birthday. While we were there we saw a cute couple come in together. They both had faux-hawks. So yeah, if "her" name is Chuck, then perhaps the faux-hawk will get you laid.

I thought you didn't want to fix your own cars anymore? I don't either. I hate working on my own shit. That is why all my cars are Buicks (with 3800 Buick engines) and my truck is a Nissan.

It's not terribly bad. I have done a ton of them, and can generally get them done in ~2.5 hours. Book time is 6 hours or so.I suggest you get the premium FelPro set. The steel with rubber... the plastic intake gaskets are worthless. You absolutely MUST torque the lower intake manifold. The gaskets are delicate, and the torque is very light. If you get the FelPro gaskets they will have the torque listings on the instructions included. Also, carefully clean all the old gasket material from the plenum surface. Remove the plastic retainers on the lower manifold from this surface as well. The ends of the plenum have a propensity to crack if the surface contact is not perfectly smooth. I can't tell you how many times I have had a shadetree and even a professional's work come to me with odd screaming noises when it is cold, or misfires, or lean codes and found the plenum cracked. Be careful of the pushrods. You will have to remove them to pull the intake gasket. They are 2 different lengths. The intake pushrods are shorter. Put the longer exhaust pushrod in an intake spot and you will have a pretzel. I have a cardboard box I have punched holes in and place rags inside it (to absorb the oil from the pushrods). Just mark the box "front of engine" on the appropriate side and it will be simple and mindless to reinstall the pushrods correctly/ Thanks, it looks like its easier to pry the rockers up and slip the pushrods out rather than some people (maybe the book) listing to pull the coils/etc and unbolt the rockers and do it that way. Nice to know FelPro puts the torque spec on the package, something like 115 in-lb and then 18ft-lb if I remember right. Do they put the torque sequence on there too? I'll have to borrow someones garage/shop for this one, don't want to open up the engine in the parking lot here. I'll do a lot in a parking lot, but since I don't have to I won't open it up out here in the middle of the world. It doesn't look to bad, but the father in law already 'fixed' it once. If I remember correctly he just retorqued the bolts when he pulled it off and found them loose, so the gasket must be shot. One of the bolts was loose when I pulled the throttle body off to see what was up and I tightened it back up to the torque spec of my calibrated finger. I suggest pulling the coil pack and removing the valve cover. The valve covers actually go over the top of the intake. On cars, I remove the alternator, coil pack and module assembly on the bracket (2 13mm nuts on the back side and 2 10mm bolts on the plenum, and I mean the hex size, not the actual bolt/nut size). If I am doing it on a van, I will leave the rear valve cover on as long as it is not leaking, and twist the intake out of the hole. I have a ratcheting flex head wrench that I can fit under the valve cover to loosen the rockers (as my tool will not fit in there with the VC on) to remove the pushrods. Honestly, with a car it only takes about 5 minutes more to remove the rear valve cover and all peripherals. On Vans, this adds at least 45 minutes to an hour depending on the van's overhang. I actually have a tool that allows me to pry the rockers up to get the pushrods out. If you don't have the proper tool, doing so with a prybar sounds like a busted up finger to me. Here is the Lisle tool at Sears: http://www.sears.com...=32-192219361-2 It is the same tool I use. I got mine at NAPA. The store manager owed me a favor, and this tool was part of the payment Yeah, I think it is 28 in lbs, 115 in lbs and 216 in lbs (or 18 ft lbs ). The sequence is basically start with the 4 inner bolts and move around in a clockwise pattern. Do the 2 inner angled bolts next then the 2 outers.

I are a fart smeller... err, I mean smart feller...