Kangaroux

If I did my math right that should be 54% effiiciency which is pretty crappy but considering it does 4k @ ~2 ohms and is rated for that power at 17v is not too bad at all. And for the record that test was done at 14v not 16v (14v = charging at 16, 16v = charging at 17-18). A few good sized batteries would be ideal for this amp but if you're limited to 2 batts just fit the largest ones you can and get some good ones like batcaps or something with a high discharge. Are you limited by cubic inches for the size of the batts (like 800 cubic inches?)

This thread was started like 5 years ago...Jacob just posted up a yard sale thread with plenty of stuff in there. B-stock you generally just have to email them once in a while and check in and see what they have. Jacob is too busy to bother with posting up b-stock listings and keeping them updated

I would have put the sub on the opposite side of where you put it so it wasn't right in front of the port opening, but besides that it looks good

Just noticed I forgot to put it in the OP...but a big thanks to Decaf for letting me use a lot of his material to remix.

SSA and Fi both use yellow spiders. I've owned multiple Fi subs as well as this xcon now and none of them had a yellow spider

SSA Doesn't use yellow spiders....trying to think of a company that does as well as using a 12 spoke

Looking for a cheap ($50 - $60) 8" sub, needs to have a 4 ohm final load. No crazy RMS, this is gonna be replacing a logitech sub used for a desktop setup. The big thing is that the sub needs to be able to play down into the low 30's at least. The current sub sounds like total sh!t below like 50hz. I even made a new box for it that's 0.7 cubes tuned to 35hz and it can't play anything under 50hz without having a tremendous amount of port noise (the original box for it did the exact same thing).

32hz http://kiwi6.com/file/nscu048g63 30hz, 42hz http://kiwi6.com/file/o24jc1m8g3 33hz http://kiwi6.com/file/uokk3zb4m4 29hz, 39hz http://kiwi6.com/file/31q49bx5yz

Now that the long weekend is coming up I'll have time to go through and finish a lot of the remixes that I never got around to remastering. Expect some more stuff soon

Where was the meter? Nice score for a 300w sub too.

$200 for that amp, final offer

I will when I get some cash lol...the only thing that seems kinda off with this method is the kicks aren't as pronounced on the lower end of them but that isn't too big of a deal

Been wanting to remix for a little bit now but was having trouble trying to find the best method of lowering down the volume of the kicks to match the volume of the bass without using compression (using compression causes the bass to seem quiet then get louder every time there is a bass kick). Finally figured out a method that works great and is easy to do, so you should be seeing more of this stuff from me hopefully lol. Song peaks at 32hz. Bear in mind there are little 23hz notes here and there so make sure your subsonic is set accordingly. http://kiwi6.com/file/fyeh706z9c

They don't have to be the same so long as they are both AGM...I run a batcap 2000 under the hood and a c&d 270FR in the back...two completely different batts but it works just fine

You know you want it...lol Of course I do...trade for an aq2200 and I make your next website at no charge?

Hmmmmm

Jello trick

Trying to figure out what is causing all that noise...I think it's just the door slapping the actual body of the car right where the handle is since the gap between those 2 things are real small. Gonna need some more weatherstripping...again...lol

What, bracing my roof? Yeah I tried to do it in an efficient fashion that would work and not cost much. It was either drop like $60-80 on deadener or brace my roof with some $2.50 silicone and scrap pieces. Glad I went with the latter I wonder if your method would hold up on a say a trunk lid... It's a nice idea.... Seems like it could work... It sure is an easy way of adding mass. If you give the silicone a good 3 days to full cure up I'm sure it would be hard enough to drop a lot of flex, but at the very least it should stop any kind of rattling. I used 3/4" ply just cause it's what I had lying around but I'm sure you could use some like 1/2" or even 1/4" - 3/8" project panels of MDF or something. You can use any type of wood you want, but heavier stuff is better because it has more mass. I highly suggest doing kerfs too so it can mould to the trunk too. Put a ton of silicone on one side and place it, and then fill up any gaps between the wood and the trunk lid. Then do a bead all around the wood to help hold it in place and prevent it from ripping out.

What, bracing my roof? Yeah I tried to do it in an efficient fashion that would work and not cost much. It was either drop like $60-80 on deadener or brace my roof with some $2.50 silicone and scrap pieces. Glad I went with the latter

Quick vid of it

I can do one for sure in the rear windows, still need to do some more bracing before I can do one pretty good up front. Also a quick update: I got the roof all braced up and finished and let it sit overnight. The PL needs 2-3 days to fully cure but I wanted to hear how it sounded. First impressions: a lot better. Because the silicone hasn't fully cured it sitll flexes a lot but all the extra mass is like deadening the whole roof, it's dead silent now. However I have developed more flex issues...my hatch goes a bit crazier (gonna need more weatherstripping) but now my rear door is LOUD. The entire door is flexing around, not just the top of it. I'm gonna need to find something to fix it because from like 28hz - 32hz it is even louder than when my roof was making noise before.

Yeah Fi isn't great in the advertising apartment, you do sorta just have to check out their site once and a while. But I'd rather have a company that spends their time actually working on stuff vs. advertising and saying they're going to release things and then they never come out. Plus, by not saying when something is going to be released, they don't have to be rushed and can take their time refining it and release it when they're ready.

Wow, that's crazy. Something tells me it was dropped at one point but not hard enough to actually crack anything, at least on the outside. Playing it quite a bit may have caused the crack to grow