Kangaroux

So I'm looking to go bigger (who isn't? ) and I was checking out obsidians. They look pretty nice, I'm pretty sure that the product is going to be great unlike some brands that are just starting out since obsidian was established by some reputable people. I've been wanting to do a big build for a while now and I've been hopping between brands, doing price checks and just seeing what I like most. I think I've decided that this build will work pretty well...though like I said it is a decent sized build so I was hoping that some of you could give me some tips on the best way to set it up. I know that's a really general statement, but hopefully you know what I mean. Anyways, I was planning on doing 3 Obsidian 15's being pushed by a Soundstream Rubicon 2500d. Haven't decided on dual 4/2 coils yet. At 1.3 ohms I will be fine, but if I go with 0.67 ohms I think some of the box rise will take over and it won't hurt my electrical quite as bad... Was fooling around in winisd and they really liked 3.5 cubes each @ 30. An hour or so later and I came up with this: Final box is 11 cubes net @ 30hz. There is about 15 sq. inches of port area per cube so I think that should really help with some air movement. Port is braced, flush baffle, and there are 3x 1.25" dowels placed around the rear sub. I've never done a big setup like this, so I'm curious as to what you guys like to use for bracing, what works best, common problems, etc. If you have any experience with the Obsidian line then feel free to give me your opinion. Going for an ""SQL"" build that can drop low but still maintain well in the 25-40Hz range.

I made a DD one a few months back, only spent like 20 minutes on it lulz. If someone wants it I can post it up, though it's not as fancy as the OP's

I don't trust the RE calc either. When I figure out tuning for an enclosure I use winisd and compare it with the one on here, and it's 99.9% of the time within like 1/4" of eachother lol. If you use the calc on carstereo.com and you wanna do a slot port, keep slot port set to "no". For some reason it adds some random value to it, possibly for end correction, I don't know.

Play some white girl if you wanna do a towel trick lol. Whats your box specs?

OP that looks like a pretty nice setup, get another batt, drop that amp down to 1 ohm and you'll be in for a nice surprise What did you use, if anything, to secure the false floor down? And is the box attached to the false floor or is it just sitting there?

Considering they are rated for being .5 stable it's not really that surprising. The rubicons will drop down to 1/4 ohm as well

He seems a little lacking on the port area end of the box, but his looks pretty mint lol (not to say yours doesn't...)

That second pic is pretty trippy lol. Where was that?

Biggest reason I didn't do 2 18's was because I have a pathfinder, and unless I really squeeze them in there I just don't have the width for it. This is a pic of my current setup As you can see the tire wells stick out quite a bit so I'm stuck with around 38" unless I did some modding. The rear hatch supports around 43" of total width

I haven't read the thread so excuse me if I am repeating something but.. 15's don't necessarily have the ability of digging deeper than 12's do. It's all in how you design the enclosure, where it is in the vehicle, what vehicle you are running, etc. If you are interested in lows I would do some Fi Q 15's or even just a single 18.

Minus the water thats there, it would be pretty awesome to be able to drift all the way down your driveway right into the garage...

Used to use firefox and I loved it but then I switched over to chrome it was even faster to use, plus chrome has a load of plugins as well. My favorite thing about chrome is how the bar the top for the window is so small, and for every new tab you open it actually opens a new process on the system. That way, if something happens in a tab where it would normally crash your browser, it would just crash that current process and leave everything else open unharmed. Regardless if you use chrome or firefox, I would highly suggest looking into adblock plus. If you are a bit web paranoid, check out "noscript". It's a plugin that blocks javascript commands unless you tell them to execute. That combo and you will never get any popups or the like. On ad heavy websites adblock will also reduce your load times

Girl in the fire - pendulum

Found out about SSA from Denim over @ CA

Anything below 30Hz really should be left for the Q to take care of. BL shines in the 30-33Hz range. My box is tuned to 31Hz and it doesn't start unloading until around 24Hz and hits the lows just fine. Granted, it's not a BL, but they should react about the same.

Why not? Buy it for $40, use it a little, turn around and sell it on CL for $150. You make $100, and once you get the ZCON you will appreciate even more the quality of USA made products

tbh i wouldnt buy anything that wasnt from a dealer. AFAIK a lot of hertz products are being sold as fakes, and the only safe route is via dealer

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KCA-PK0

what SA amp is it? this would work: http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=eKo-RCA5

Well I paid for it. A customer could always buy the most crazy box I ever built, tear the top off and post up the design. Andrew alright just checkin

is ryan OK with you posting up the raw designs like that?

Do you plan on running the system while idle/car off? if so youre going to need more batts than if you just run the system normally with the car moving. something like a small XS would work fine for up front batt, obv. have your big 3 done, possibly in something large like 2/0. in the back a few deka's/xs power would work great too. bad4health sells dekas for $120 shipped over at ca.com, i run one and it works great.

just made an account over here just to dub around on. im "double deez" on ca.com.

Just wonderin who out there is from Maine..don't know many people into this thing up here