RAM_Designs

After .13 displacement for the sub, I came up with 2.42ft^3(this is assuming that the 17" port length provided by the company is internal length). This leaves you with roughly 39-40hz tuning. If you have the space, you can wrap the port around the outside of the box and have it fire the same direction as the sub. Just take off the carpet on that one side, and attach the port extension to that side in order to make the port flush with the sub. This will drop tuning to ~32hz. Then just re-carpet it or paint it black. This is assuming you have the space to fire the port like that, and don't mind a slightly ghetto box.

Indeed.

Even with the larger ports that we're used to you're able to drop tuning by adding length, even though you're taking away volume...it just happens slowly and ends up shrinking box size quite a bit. With a small port that comes with a pre-fab it'll more easily drop the tuning while not eating up as much volume. The issue is that if it's a pre-fab box, it's more than likely too small to begin with. If I were the OP I'd try to extend the port outside of the box. First off, I'd find out the box specs.

Cross-sectional port area needs to remain constant throughout the entire length of the port. You need to redo it.

Totally different woofers, yes, you can make that argument(still, not very often). But within the same woofer line you'll be hard pressed to find any situation where the 8" version will have better low-end extension than the 15" version.

That'll give you a true 2kw to work with? None. Maybe you can find something used for around 250-300 in the classifieds that will give you the power you need. Or just build a bigger box and go with less power.

This. If you're on a tight budget the AudioQue 2200D or Soundstream DTR1.2200D will work well, assuming you're getting D4 subs.

Man, those are getting pushed pretty hard. Sounds sick.

Indeed, I agree.

I'm not familiar with what kind of crossover points you get with that particular AC unit, but being an AC unit I imagine you'll have a ton of flexibility and any kind of frequency/slope combo you'd need to properly execute this setup.

I'd ditch that mid and get something more sensitive to keep up with those Sundown neo midbasses. Not to mention those midbasses are more PA style woofers, so you should be able to run them higher than what you'd normally think of with an 8" woofer...there's no need to use a midrange that adds more mass so that it can be crossed lower, in my opinion. I'd look into the cheaper version of what you linked to, the ~$65 one. It's more efficient and still has a 1.5" coil. If you're bandpassing it in the 500hz-5khz area you'll be able to dump a lot of power on it. Don't be thrown off by the 35 watts power rating, that was done full-range with no crossover applied. As far as tweets go you can go with high efficiency there as well since you won't need it to play but 5khz and up. There's some Vifa semi horn loaded tweets that were for sale cheap at madisound. They were 93db or something like that. Found it: https://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=8354 This is all assuming that you want high efficiency to keep up with a loud sub setup, and that those Sundown mids are clean up to 500hz.

If you're using this for daily, use a little bigger box, more port area, and tune lower. I had a customer very happy with 2.25ft^3 at 30hz for a single 12"er. For a pair I'd do 4ft^3, same tuning, and use 55-60in^2 of port. This is assuming you plan on running rated power to the subs. Using a sub with such a low fs, you're going to have a big peak tuning in the mid 30's...very big, and output will drop below tuning quite a bit. Drop tuning down low and you'll have good extension down to 25hz and really no need for a ssf.

I recommend the Skar's as well if you're looking for low-end. I just designed a box for one in 2.25ft^3 at 30hz...the customer was VERY impressed with the low-end output.

Hey everyone. I'm sure some of you know me from other forums(maybe as RyanM923), but I'm just now getting my feet wet at ssa. I figured I might as well go to the site that features a lot of my favorite brands on it.

You'll learn a lot by building it yourself. It seems daunting at first, but it really isn't hard. And after you do one it's cake the rest of the time.

Sounds like my last 4-5 audio purchases.

Nice, I love those older Durangos.

That was worded very well...wish I could type like that. Instead, my mind races a million miles and hour and I end up with 3 commas in every sentence.

That's a pretty good price if shops near you do it for that much(assuming they're not junk). A quality, custom made ported 12" box from a reputable shop is more than likely going to hit $200 and maybe even higher, depending on the shop. I asked a shop how much a simple ported box for my pair of 10"ers would cost, just for the hell of it. $300! Yikes...and of course they didn't even ask what size or tuning I was looking for.

What's the VC configuration of your subs?

A single sub setup walled in a truck will look odd, in my opinion, unless it's a 21" or something like that. I'd do the 18" BTL out of all of your options. Add a second when you're able to. I'd refrain from the XXX since you can probably just do a proper box for it below the window line, or close to it.

4-4.5ft^3 at 33hz is fine. As far as the port goes, don't do one spanning the width of the box above the subs. With the proper port area it'll be too skinny. A vertical port will be much easier to properly execute.

Yeah, you need to use a predetermined net volume to find the needed length for the port. Then find the volume it's going to take up, along with your sub/bracing, and add that to the volume you used to find the port length. This will give you the needed gross volume of the box. Then just plug and chug different dimensions until you find ones that work(or close enough so you can add some more bracing, 45's, etc, to take up a little more volume if needed). Easiest way for me to do it is have two dimensions set in stone, and just adjust the third.

Haha, very true. The worst ghetto fabulous installs I've ever seen have all come from FL...

IIRC the port is 2" wide, and the brace is about 6" away...shouldn't cause any issues. I've done closer with no ill effects as well.