Loud n Clean

I'm gonna hit up Mr. Meade and see what he says....I have a DD-1 and gonna get the CC-1 here soon so hopefully with that combo I can knock it out.

I just picked up an electronic xover and each of the 3 outputs have a "level" setting which I assume is like an amps "gain" control....How do I set that correctly? The manual does not specify how to do it.

God forbid somebody want to learn/experiment....if things weren't for us if we had to ask about them, nothing would be for anyone.OP: You can look into the Memphis 16-X03, it's a 3way electronic xover that will allow you to bandpass your mids and you'll be active like you want.

Ended up buying the xover listed above, problem solved

Considering buying an electronic xover and I've found a nice old school piece that will allow me to set highs/mids/subs but doesn't allow bandpassing the mid. Is that that big of a deal? If so, should I get these to cut it off on the high end? http://www.ebay.com/itm/2FMOD-3500Hz-High-Pass-Tweeter-Electronic-Crossover-USA-/370525230698?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item564506566a#ht_2009wt_1396

Tweets will be cut at 3k too. My amps xover is 30Hz - 500Hz...no multiplier switch . I think i'm just gonna bite the bullet and buy a 3 way xover than can bandpass the midrange, strongly considering this onehttp://www.woofersetc.com/p-3434-16-xo3-memphis-3-way-electronic-crossover.aspx

Maybe i'm just not understanding how this thing works. The xover i'm looking at is a Coustic XM3-e, it has front/rear/sub....front would be for my highs, set to 3k....rear would be for my mids, set to 80Hz and my sub would be low passed at 80. So my concern is that there is no cutout point at the top end of the midrange spectrum, causing the mid and tweeter to have some overlap.....or would the midrange automatically roll off at 3k since that's what my fronts were set to?

Sorry bro, I have no way to ship the box......I also sold the 2512 and just picked up a 3512 yesterday so i'm gonna be using the box for a while. But if you ever have any plans on coming up this way hit me up and I might be willing to part with it....perfect excuse to build a new box with the 6" aero port I have sitting in my closet

1. Product: Digital Designs 2512 D2 2. Specs: 750rms Dual 2 ohm vc Box: 2.25cu.ft. tuned to 34Hz, 3/4" MDF, full roundovers and double baffle, flush mounted 3. Description/Condition: Only used for a month, near mint condition 4. Price: : $200 $250 w/box (local only) I'm in Sacramento...buyer to cover actual shipping costs, lower 48 only. No trades...Price is negotiable, reasonable offers will be considered. 5. Pictures:

Amen!

Those numbers aren't looking good cause of the port from all I've heard you should have at least the diameter of the port between the end of the port and the nearest adjacent wall so unless you plan on adding a 90* bend in there, that won't work cause your box is only 34" wide. So your port can only extend 26" into the box, meaning the other 6" would have to be external, or you'd have to add a bend in there with the extra length added to it.

Wow, looks like a beast! But the price point.....$10 less than an SA-12, really?

I'm kicking myself in the cheeks right now for missing those sick deals....bet I won't miss another!

Then he better get his sh*t right cause last time I checked, this thread is 5-6 pages long and I have 4 posts in it, and only once was my assertion or insinuation incorrect. Come again

I'm here in Sac and i'm running Sundown....I have a pair of SA-12's on a SAZ-1500D @ 1ohm, box is 3cu.ft. tuned to 33Hz

I have a set of PPI 356CS components up front and they sound wonderful, but after tuning my amp with my DD-1 I found that the tweets just aren't capable of handling the power i'm giving them. I'm running them off a CDT Audio SQ4100 at 4 x 100....the comps are rated at 120rms per side so i'm not able to turn them up as loud as I should be able before the tweets just start screaming and sounding nasty so I want to upgrade the tweets with something that'll fit into the existing hole in my door panel (am willing to do a little mods to get it to fit if needed). So I'd like a tweet that can handle at least 90rms and isn't very deep, I only have about 1.5" clearance back there. Any suggestions on what tweets to get? I'm considering these so far Precision Power PPI PT.2 Digital Designs DD-AT28

That sucks. Ever thought about just getting your money back and going with Mechman?

Awesome! Glad it all worked out for you.

Was one of those free, to pacify you for the wait?

Just a FYI, DC Power left SMD as a partner a while ago and to this day they still arent one. I dont even see a forum for them over there.

Just finished my custom box build recently for my Sundown 12's and got a DD-1 a week or so ago and got it all tuned. I'm running a Sundown SAZ-1500D @ 1ohm...this is my first video at full tilt after tuning with the DD-1

It stayed pretty close to the same. When I first set it I did so with a dmm, using a 50hz test tone and setting my volume to 3/4 of the way. Using that method my gain was set up at about 11 o'clock. Using the DD-1 my gain now sits at about 9 o'clock. Also, I had the bass boost up to about 9 o'clock before. Hearing those things you would think distortion, clipping, stinky coils....never had any of those issues. I could bang my subs at 24/35 for as long as I wanted and my dust caps never got hot....I think a couple times I was able to get them slightly warm, but that was after beating out for a long time at high volume. By long time I mean around an hour and a half to two hours. But now I don't need bass boost, rarely turn my sub level up on my deck past 0, and usually have my deck set to "subwoofer 1" which is a lower output than "subwoofer 2"....I only put it on the latter when I am giving a demo or just want to slam for a while. It's also nice to know the max level you can turn your deck to without issue, never knew that before. I think what effected my sub stage performance the most was not only the new box, but also the tweaked settings for my lpf and ssf. The DD-1 just let me know my max deck volume before distortion and dialed my gains accurately to match the input source signal. And it's much easier and faster than setting any other way....now I can't wait for the CC-1 to come out!

Cheap or not, AudioQue makes some decent amps. My AQ1200 was solid! Put out nice clean power to my ID's

I wasnt too sure how that would work out but figured I'd give it a shot. But after I got the reminder about the tweeter level adjustment on my xover it seems to have solved my problem. Thanks guys.

No, passive. I was simply gonna remove the current one's, install the new ones and run them on the existing xover since it's not an issue of the frequencies they play, rather the harshness of them at full tilt. I feel like a total noob though, totally forgot about the level adjustment on the xover for them, it's got -3, 0, 3...it was on 0, just flipped it to -3 but won't be able to test it until tomorrow. Haha, thanks man.