sundownz

I still have it but it is having some periodic issues... wont start sometimes. Not wanting to get stranded I got a backup car

The subsonic is used as an HPF if you are going active and have that set of channels set to LPF -- therefore resulting in a bandpass crossover.

Awesome

only the protection light turns on and then immediately off. The power light never turns on. Okay, check the items I listed.

It climbed to 152.4 with two 1500s on an NS v.1 1500s @ 0.25 each

So... I got tired of not going to any shows so I've thrown something in the CRX. Took my "magic box" from the Jeep and threw my prototype Monster 15" in there as it was the only D1 sub I found laying around and powered it with the prototype 2500D. * Stinger SPP1500 under the hood with oval 1/0 Stinger flex wire -- one run power and one run ground to the back. * Upgraded factory ground wire here too. * Got it in behind the b-pillar. SAX-100.4 under the box. * Wire mess with distribution blocks. * Magic box in all of it's glory. * SAZ-2500D is under these boards. Just threw this in quickly with scraps to test. ... drum roll ... * Also did 150.1 but didn't take photo... clamped ~1300 watts of power. Big rise + lacking electrical = not alot of power. Peaking at 52 Hz... not right for the CRX at all -- but interestingly this is MORE efficient than the same box in my Jeep. So I may just keep adding power to it

Nice work

Does the power light come on after protect goes off ? Or do all lights turn off ? If all lights you may also have a bad ground or weak turn-on signal or a messed up inline fuse.

I am building some for a foreign market and they turned out pretty well. Before I start offering them in mass I am making a different spider but these worked out very well. The new spider will sit down on the 7" landing to give more cone to spider clearance. I'll put up some specs before I ship them off.

Re-cones are $30 + SH

As for the reason... I am only shipping a few to the foreign markets so I can easily keep track of them for future re-cones to make sure they match. I don't want to ship a bunch of drivers around the USA without having the spiders I plan to use for full production.

I am not selling them in the US yet.

Both. I drive it every day as it gets awesome gas mileage.

Yep - it is the flat stuff. It was nice to run under the carpet... but the main reason I used it is that I got a great deal on it

It is roughly 3 cubes after port and sub.

0.5 nominal... likely around 2 after impedance rise.

More power later... really need to do some dampening before I get too much farther with it.

Oh yah... stock alternator too... need to get a big one on here as I cannot get that many batteries to fit.

Interior in the back is stripped to prepare for dampening... so hopefully I can get results of dampening addition soon! Second Skin Damplifier Pro of course!

Hey guys, Found out that at least some of the latest run of 1500s have the BR IN and BR OUT reversed. If you got one recently and plan to strap it I would check it out to see if you are affected. This has no effect on the regular inputs and is only important for strapping. This can be easily fixed DIY or you can actually just flip the cables to the opposite BR plug and just use it that way. If you want to fix them so that the labels on the side panel are correct this is what you do : * This one is correct - the cables go blue, black, black, green * This one is not correct - notice it goes green, black, black, blue * The plastic plug around the pins is backwards and the connector only plugs in one way so this piece needs to be flipped around. You can pull it off carefully with needle nose pliers and put it back on just as carefully as not to bend the pins. * This is how it should be I wasn't notified by anyone until this weekend so it may only be a few amps -- but just in case take a look at yours if you plan to strap it to make sure. You can also simply use the BR IN as the BR OUT and vice versa if you don't want to mess with the plug. We can also fix it if you are not comfortable doing it. This is ONLY the newest run of amps -- all amps shipped after today will be checked over so if you are planning to get one after now it will have been fixed if necessary.

Yep... any of them shipped any time recently brand new is a v.2 model. Externally they look identical to the v.1 models.

It will still generate heat regardless of the load - so that is fine.

Just the LED burnt out -- no worries.

It is just a telephone cord. The cord may be pinched if it is protecting your amp... the remote is simply a resistor and an LED, nothing complicated.

You can email Chris and check the latest -- he keeps the site as up to date as possible but sometimes things are available and not listed yet.