sundownz

Woops... I guess it got lost in my to-do pile. The cut-out on the 12" model is the same as the Mag 12" at 11.125 inches and the 10" BM has the same cut-out as any other 10" 12-spoke driver out there at 9.25 inches. As for depth... haven't measured that, let me see if I can get that.

Yep I've got two in my Civic behind the front seats.

Still fine for daily with that setup. For competition purposes with your proposed larger setup... just as above, add a few Kinetik 2400s.

The multi-channels won't be drawing a whole lot of current on a daily basis. Don't really be concerned about their current draw, the sub system draws the most current out of everything by far. Am I right that you have three batteries? The wording is a bit confusing. It sounds like you will be fine with the electrical setup that you have running daily. In the future... simply keep the under-hood setup and add 2 - 4 Kinetik 2400s =) PS: Took care of the double post. PS II: The small SAE amps are still a bit in the future. I will have the SAE subs first... then the 75.2 after that. The SAE-50.4 will probably come after the Nightshades which are due next year... but you never know, it could come sooner.

I had a D7 and it didn't sound quite right for some reason... killer crossovers though! I had the 6-channel model with HP/LP/BP from 50 - 5000 hz on all sets of channels. Just might not have been enough power for me.

That will be sufficient. I've used one in a personal car on stock electrical with 1/0 and it was no problem.

The latest word on the arrival of the SAE-1000D shipment is May 1st - 2nd. Pre-orders will be shipped starting the day they arrive and some will also go out the next day -- when yours ships you will get a tracking number from UPS, so you will know that it has shipped.

Glad to hear that you like your amp

Almost exactly double the current draw of a 1500D at 1 ohm. You need to have an electrical system capable of supporting 300 amps of current draw at maximum output levels at 1 ohm. When we tested in Sean's truck at lower loads we were drawing over 400 amps, but that is under 1 ohm I would highly suggest a 200 amp alternator, a large primary battery, and a large Group 31 or bigger secondary battery. Just being honest... anyone running over 2000 watts with less is fooling themselves about the power they are getting.

To the rest of the Team: Sorry guys! I've been pretty slammed this week so haven't gotten them out to everyone. I'll work on it over the weekend

I will be starting the run in a few weeks

It doesn't really matter if he uses both + and - or just one of each on an SVC sub. He really only needs to run a + from the sub to a + on the amp and a - from the sub to a - on the amp... and he could just leave the other two terminals open.

It is indeed a mono amplifier, the two sets of terminals are for wiring flexibility. They are connected in parallel internally. There IS a line from the "-" terminal, look closely and you will see that there is a box around the "-" terminals with a line coming off the box, this means connect to one or both terminals. Same goes for the "+" in that you can connect to one or both.

Hit me up when they come in

Thank you Mr. Sundown. I appreciate you taking the time to chime in on this one. I hope this will clarify any questions that other may have on this topic, as it has helped me. From all the testing and great feedback, it seems you make a wonderful product. Thanks for the support! Just let me know if you have any more questions in the future

It is not a particularly power hungry or fragile amplifier. At 1 ohm it works fine with most fairly stock electrical systems provided you have sufficient sized power wire, a properly functioning alternator, and a decent battery. Most of what you hear about extremely upgraded electrical systems is for operation below 1 ohm where voltage drop becomes much more of a problem -- ALL amplifiers are subject to damage with voltage drop, I have just made it very clear up front so that people know what it takes to power a true 1500+ watt amplifier.

Looks great!

"The ATO style fuses in the SAE-1000D are designed to handle roughly 130% of rated current for 10 minutes per the spec sheet for around 98 amps of handling, which at 14.4 volts is almost exactly 1000 watts at 75% efficiency. Since this is not an SPL competition amp I decided to go with 3x 25 amp fuses. The prototypes had 3x 30 amp fuses and I found that they would not blow even at a 1/2 ohm load for extended periods. I went with 3x 25 amp fuses to give a warning to inexperienced users when they wire the amp too low." Also posted in the FAQ thread: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=7406 Item Number 4. I was seeing the question about fusing on several forums so thought it was time for an addition to the FAQ.

Alrighty. About 90% of the pre-orders were shipped today guys. Tracking numbers will be going out soon

Disregard this addition. To avoid the inevitable confusion I had them switched back to 30 amps x 3 fuses at the last moment. SO... hopefully that will lay to rest the grumbling about the "fuse math."

Okay guys. UPS "overnight" freight apparently doesn't mean overnight to them. I called them today and was told there is "no way" they can have my shipment here today -- so it will be in tomorrow between 11 AM and 2 PM. This means I will be able to ship only a few of the first pre-orders tomorrow, and will ship the rest out Wednesday and Thursday.

Not at this time. I'll work on that when production models are in.

Sure did, he decided to keep the amp instead of sell it

The 3000D is going to be available in mid-June to Team Sundown members and a few weeks thereafter to dealers and thus the general public.

I picked up a pair of the old Assassin 8s for my Dad, we'll see how they do