sundownz

Still looking at about the same The SAE-50.4 will be the first of the announced models to come, followed by the SAE-75.2, and finally the SAX-250.2 will come after that. I will be tweaking the design for all three models compared to the prototypes shown. The next revision of the SAE-50.4 design is due in a little over a month or so... and hopefully I'll have production models by the end of the year.

It is very compact so a little heat is to be expected. I've abuse tested them thoroughly and they do just fine even when they get warmed up

Only 2 hours on the OZ Matrix Elite... it may go for as low as the $150 starting price.

Glad you got it figured out.

If you want sealed the TC-1000 is not a good choice either. If you want to stick with TC and a sealed box try the TC-7.

Alright... tested two in a row no problems at all. So one of them is waiting on you

Indeed, I'll get the new one shipped out same or next day when I receive yours back. Shouldn't take very long... I'm going to go test it now Overtime for the win.

Doesn't sound like the electrical at this point. It could be an internal problem in the amp. I'd like to look at it... ship yours back and I will have a new one tested and ready to go out waiting for you so I can investigate. It's a new model so I'd like to see what kinds of problems it might have in the field.

Hmmm... I would say to try it at different loads, maybe one sub at a time. Maybe another RCA source if you have one. If that doesn't help ship it on out and I'll get it taken care of ASAP.

If you can't figure it out send it on in to me and I'll take a look see.

Subs out of phase? What do you mean cutting in and out? Can you explain further?

If you want to crack it open and put one in, sure. Or if you can send me an LED that will fit I'll do it.

Ah, the classic open circuit problem

Hmmm... running out of battery power perhaps? Have you measured your drop?

i was looking at the ssd, but was unsure because of the power. most seem to run 800 at a min. and i am only going to have 500... SSD has good output on low power from what I've seen from it.

Indeed, I'm sure that Ray's suggestions will help alot. To me... it sounds like you are out of port area. I believe that other guys running that much power use bigger ports. It looked like the last CRX that I saw like yours had 8" custom glassed aeroports... Terry Brooks I believe? I could be wrong... but they did look huge. Of course... Ray knows spl in a CRX more than me, so go with what he says Maybe even lack of current... tried anything other than the NSB-90 in there? Maybe one of the large Batcap batteries if they are legal? Have heard good things about those.

The big problem is that the sub has an F3 of 60 Hz sealed. So by the time he is really getting into "sub" information he is already calling for double the power. IMHO, passive-radiator or ported is the only way to go on that sub if you expect much output at all.

How much port area do you have? It's pretty obvious that you have a stack of power on tap, the only things remaining are thermal compression, mechanical compression, port compression, or perhaps even box placement. You have posted it in pieces before... but can you run down the whole setup in one place? Maybe with pics as well. Perhaps someone will notice something

The TC-10 OEM needs alot of juice sealed, that is for certain. I have one in an actual ported box -- the port length is extremely long thus making the box fairly large, so a PR is probably the best option for you if size is an issue.

Looks nice

The TC-10 OEM is quite a power hungry sub, so yes, more than 600 watts may be required to make it perform like you desire I have four of them around here so I do know a bit about them. The SAZ-1500D @ 2 ohm will push it quite hard but depending on your taste the SAE-1000D may not cut it. Is the sub ported or sealed? It will be especially difficult to get alot of output from that woofer sealed. The SAX-100.2 will run much warmer than the Class-D amps, yes. It is a Class A/B and they are less efficient, being warm won't hurt the amp unless it is hot enough to shut down from thermal protection (which takes alot). The casing is a heatsink and thus it's job is to get warm and disperse the heat into the air and away from the transistors. I'll put it this way... I've never had a single 100.2 come back to me for a legit failure -- so don't worry about a bit of warmth. The 75 Hz crossover works quite well for most any 6.5" sized component speaker out there -- I run the Tang-Band 6.5 inch "subs" (used as midbass) in my brothers truck at 75 Hz and they have 12mm of one way x-max available... the 100.2 still gets them moving when he cranks it up. Although, next year the 100.2 will be updated to go down to 50 Hz in cases where that is desirable such as for 8" mibass drivers.

Windshield banner? I can send one out to you for a few dollars to cover postage.

Hmmm... so you are at around 4kw or so per sub now then eh? Might be reaching the limits of that sub at your burp frequency, what frequency are you burping at? I know that we can hit x-max on my brother's 9510s at anything but dead at tuning ~51 Hz on a 1500D at 1/2 ohm.

Yep, I will also add that some of the B-Stock amps weren't exactly damaged in shipping, but simply have some sort of minor error in build from the factory -- as mentioned; knobs out of alignment, or an RCA connector that is too tight. When I sell them I always point out what the flaw is so the buyer knows what they are getting. All of the 1500Ds -- used, b-stock, and refurbished are tested on my bench before they leave here at a 0.6 DCR load until the amp gets warm. I also clamp the output to make sure they can produce as much power as a 1500D should. I also test all other models as well but, of course, don't use a 0.6 DCR load testing 100.4s PS: For the e-bay auctions I have been including a more limited warranty recently -- 90-days on refurbs, and 1-year on b-stock and used. I noticed that people were contacting dealers with prices from used, b-stock, and refurbs expecting to get price matches on a new amp since they had full warranty too.

Sure does. Sometimes swapping phase on one side helps response by eliminating cancellation. Since the speakers are fairly far away when they are wired "in phase" cancellation can happen by the time the signals reach each other. Just like if they were "out of phase" and close together.