sundownz

The Nightshade is designed to actually be listenable. It's not an SQ woofer, but it won't sound like a fart cannon.

Call it the Surfboard and cram a 100.4 a 250.2 and a 3000d in the same chassis. Charge about $4.5k and send me the first one at half price for coming up with the idea. *laughs* That would be pretty awesome... it would be wider than most cars... around 57 - 64" or so.

The Nightshade would without a problem, but those are not even expected (optimistically) until a few months into 2008. In fact... the Nightshade will likely take a 3000D on a one to one basis daily... and two 3000Ds for SPL comp purposes. This is all pending further testing... but the proto had very little power compression at 7,000 watts on burps. Due to the proto spiders being too soft we blew a coil at 10,000 watts on a burp (coil rocked, nicked the coil on the top plate, and burnt a winding in three places). The next proto will be getting two more spiders for a total of eight... and all of them will be stiffer.

No, these are photos of the first revision of a prototype for these

LMAO... well it might, considering it is accompanied by a sudden tremendous and non-linear increase in x-max.

I'm really not pleased with the pictured protos so I may not let them out for sale... they have issues at high x-max, which is why I am totally revising the motor internals. If you plan to run relatively low power I might sell you the 12" proto... it's good up to about 600 RMS in an appropriate sized box -- but if pushed too hard it will make a "clanking" sound.

That is one crazy looking BL curve... 40mm of x-max is massive, but that BL curve is crazy. One of my customers has two of those on an SAZ-1500D @ 2 ohms... he liked it. They are single 4 ohm only, I believe, and he didn't want to run two amps... but he is satisfied IMHO, that would make a good IB sub like npdang said. Higher Q, and LOTS of throw.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/ind...x&cPath=110 How about computer fan wire grilles? Bend the legs in a bit to raise them up to clear the surround (they are already raised a little bit). 80mm = 3.14" 92mm = 3.62"

It's a bug of sorts... it has happened to me twice No big deal, easy fix!

Thanks I'm hoping that I can get them made soon! As long as testing of the revised prototypes goes well I should be able to. I won't have any 15s at first, so I guess we can't test em' in your wall. Of course, these aren't made to be the best subs on the meter, that is what the Nightshade will be for!

Interested in a MASS clone? Jacob is working on making one available. Indeed. Likely not a permanent product but I will be offering a warranty on it like all of my stuff so I'll have spares and parts on hand when people need service. I've been talking about it on DIY Mobile Audio a bit.

You act like you plan on tearing some up *laughs* Yes, I'm working on getting parts with them as well.

*laughs* Hopefully soon Steve... my next protos are due in a few weeks. I'm being difficult so it is taking a while to meet my specs. Hopefully they turn out nicely and I can start production in the near future.

Don't worry, other drivers that I will do later will be more SQ oriented. But 90% of the market wants a speaker that sounds "good enough" and gets loud. I would say these sound better than most "regular" woofers out there, but they won't hold up to the SQ offerings from Stereo Integrity and the likes I'll leak a bit more info for you Jim... it will use a bit of aluminum in the motor, if that makes you feel better

It is taking a while to get the updated coil. I'm looking at that one sometime next year due to the difficulty in nailing down a coil and the expense of making such a large driver.

It's not the size of your amp, it's how you use it. You going to put logos on the cones Jacob? I think a nice silver Sundown logo would look awesome with that cone. They look great. Yessir, logos will be on the cone for production. These are protos so they don't get logos yet

Dealers want a sub in this power range MUCH more than a 5-channel, so these are first Other amps are still in the works, but a 5-channel is not on top of the list. The SAE-50.4, SAE-75.2, SAX-250.2, and an SAE-1500D will come first.

Indeed, it is likely that company gets parts from the same supplier. Of course, as you know, the internal geometry can vary greatly I've changed the internals of the motor dramatically for the next revision without changing the external appearance whatsoever.

Under your hood replace the critical electrical system wires with 1/0 cables: 1) Alternator to battery cable 2) Engine Block to Battery 3) Car Chassis to Battery I always throw in a fourth... engine block to chassis. In order to power a pair of 3000Ds to their utmost potential, "audio-neon" is correct. You can run the amps with less but you will not get the most out of them, remember -- these amps WILL produce well over 3,000 watts with solid electrical system backing: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=9952 I measured 3200 watts on my bench dropping to 10.75 volts (not something you want to do on a regular basis). If you can maintain around 13 volts you could see around 4,000 watts from each amp =)

One 3000D will draw slightly less current as it will do slightly less power. For all practical purposes it would be almost the same Of course, one 3000D is smaller and simpler as has been mentioned.

It takes a long time for parasitic draw to have an effect on the batteries. I have a Kinetik 2400 and a large lead-acid battery connected together on my test bench... left for a week it has no noticeable effect on the batteries. It would probably take a month to really hurt the batteries. Short answer... no, you don't need an isolator if you drive the car at least once a week

If you want to run 2000-watts on your subwoofer then you will need an HO alternator and, I suggest, a brand new starter battery and a large deep-cycle secondary battery like a Kinetik 2400 or Deka Intimidator 9A31. This is assuming you will be listening to it at high levels most of the time... if you rarely utilize the full capacity of the amp you *may* be able to get away with less upgrades, but I know most people that buy 2000+ watt amps and 18" subs don't intend to baby the volume! You cannot bridge the head-unit onto the front stage as you suggest. Even if you could I would not suggest doing so, you will be MUCH better served running even a small amplifier to the front speakers, especially with 2000-watts on the sub! I'm sure that you want to be able to hear mids and highs with all that bass, correct? Is your sub a BTL or a BL? Your post isn't quite clear as it states "BT"

It is for a customer of his, not installed yet I'm sure the general idea is to somehow be able to hear a bit of mids and highs with the bass going full blast @ 12kw on 3x 18" woofers *laughs*

That is going to be ridiculous

Fitting the battery was no problem. I just had to remove the end plastic piece on the air intake and then notch the battery hold-down plate as this battery is wider. Very simple "mod" for a much larger battery. More car pics: I like the tweeters up high the in A-pillar, I've done it in several installs. Your suggested position works pretty good as well, I've done it before. I prefer the A-pillar personally since it does seem to raise the soundstage a bit.