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Everything posted by sundownz
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I talked to him about it... it seems that it is a proprietary design that he cannot share details about. He has offered to build them for people that want to use them in conjunction with a pair of 12" SD-1s for the rate of $125 + shipping as a "special" for my customers.
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Incase someone is going to ask, mounting depth on the SD-1's? 10" = 5" depth 12" = 5.5" depth
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Still plenty to go around folks. Don't miss out on these nice USA made speakers. They would do very well in a 3-way home setup as well... run them up to ~200 Hz as midbass to mate with a midrange driver Remember, 8 ohm coils on these! Or even use the 10" model as an in-door midbass driver for car audio!
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Mike, Do you still need any help on this or did you figure it all out?
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I'll put it to you this way... for what Mach5 charges you really are very unlikely to get a better speaker. You might find one that is a bit louder OR maybe sounds a bit better, but not likely both at the same cost. IMHO, for the price their stuff is a safe bet.
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Their drivers are already insanely cheap, it'll be okay
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Awesome score, glad to hear the results! You know you want to try Sundown amps next season Sorry I wasn't there... my brother broke his rear glass out *wait for it* ... ... while loading logs into the truck. Sadly, not from the bass.
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Indeed, looks like you narrowed it down. Send the amp in to me. If you have the manual the address is on the inside of the front cover.
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I haven't had a problem with the tape, I used it on one other unit probably 6 months ago and haven't heard anything back since I did use high-temp duct tape 3 layers thick, though, so this could be a factor. The bottom panel doesn't get nearly as hot as the rest of the heatsink and the contact with the transformer is minimal as well. 1/2 ohm is a no-no with a limited electrical setup. You can draw over 220 amps at full blast at 1/2 ohm.
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OERadio.com line of factory replacement headunits
sundownz replied to priorityaudio's topic in General Audio
I think it will go very well... some OEM radios simply CANNOT be replaced. For instance... the late model Sunfire... you have to retain and relocate the OEM radio due to integration! An all-in-one solution would be awesome... and think about some of the newest stuff -- Mazda3 for instance... the whole center dash is one piece, that is hellacious to replace. I think it's a killer idea for very new cars... older cars not so much, but brand new cars with crazy integration, defiantly. -
Indeed, AGU fuses only go up to 80 amps. It is likely that your old fuse is damaged, so go ahead and replace it until you can upgrade to an ANL fuse. This could very well be your only problem. Try that and let me know. And yes, that little AGU fuse can be dropping voltage -- which will make the amp get hot, and if voltage gets low enough will cause it to hit protection like you described. If that doesn't work then you can send it to me. Send me an e-mail to [email protected] and I will look up how much warranty you have left tomorrow... well, I guess later today since it is past 1 AM
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Since you only have 4 gauge wire I wouldn't go higher than a 100 amp fuse. You really need 1/0 wire, at which point you would use a 150 amp fuse. You can run the 1500D @ 1 ohm with a 105 amp alternator, sure, but how well depends on how you treat the volume knob. The 1500D can draw over 160 amps at full output, this WILL drop your voltage to battery level or less. So, if you are calling for the amplifier to produce it's full output on a consistent basis, then no, it won't work very well for you. If you can't upgrade the alternator now... at least get the biggest starter battery that you can cram under the hood. I fit one almost twice as bit as stock under the hood in my Civic!
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Doesn't sound like the connector is an issue, if it has been twisted a few time sit could be slightly loose -- which is no big deal as long as it stays on the amp. Ventilation isn't the main concern for box mounting, extensive vibration that can shake stuff loose inside the amp is If the fuse is a "glass cylinder" AGU style... change it. They can drop voltage, even if the amp has some power if the voltage is way too low it'll go into protection. Fuses can "go bad" without blowing and cause problems. Even other fuse types CAN do this, but AGU are the worst for doing so. You don't have to know anything about the amp to test for the transformer shorting. Simply try it without the bottom cover on, if that solves it apply 2-3 layers of duct tape to the inside of the bottom panel directly above the transformers. And yes, if you can't figure it out you can send it to me. The amps from Rob are still under warranty.
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It really doesn't matter if they are common chamber or separated. Volume from 2.5 - 3 ft^3 is perfect, use 4 - 5 pounds of polyfill total in there as well (craft section at wal-mart).
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Indeed, 2 ohms is an extremely easy load for the amp. 4 gauge wire is a tad small, but still shouldn't cause a problem unless you were clipping the amplifier badly. I'll put it this way... nobody has ever damaged one at 2 ohm in the past. I'm not sure what you mean about the connector being "somewhat loose" -- do you mean you can easily move it around? Or just that if you try you can rotate it a bit? If it is the latter that isn't a big deal. Where is it mounted? To the sub box? That can cause issues if so. What kind of fuse do you have? And what size? Check the remote lead voltage? Is that okay? One thing to check... which I have seen once before -- take off the bottom panel and see if it runs fine. If it does, put some duct tape on the bottom panel above the transformers. The other time I saw something like this the transformers were barely touching the bottom plate and would act like you are describing. PS: Who did you get the amplifier from?
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The 10" models really do excel in very small enclosures Pop them into WinISD or your favorite box program and design away!
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OERadio.com line of factory replacement headunits
sundownz replied to priorityaudio's topic in General Audio
I'll brain-storm on it a bit... but that is an excellent idea, especially with the crazy integration you see today with the OEM radios! -
Hey now, I started wanting some last week, now its too good to pass up. Will send mail about shipping to Canada. Indeed, they are very good for those of us who aren't massive bass heads and/or have limited space/depth or even who have limited electrical setups and don't want to run gobs of power. Nice little speakers all in all Unfortunatly, the market wants big boy speakers... hence the close-out sale.
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ATTN: Joshua Bayer Your order was received but the address is incomplete. I sent you an e-mail requesting a correction. Posting here too in case you don't check that address on a regular basis. I'll have to ship Monday as I am about to do my UPS shipping for today in less than 5 minutes.
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Still plenty left Remember, each SD-1 purchased enters your in a drawing to win an SAX-100.2 for free!
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I beat the ever living hell out of my current revision Mags almost every single day testing amps. Watch: http://www.sundownaudio.com/misc/Two_Mags_1500D.AVI They start to smell funny when I test 5 or 6 SAZ-3000Ds in a row on them @ 1/2 ohm
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Massive
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Indeed, it totally slipped my mind that the TL box is a proprietary design. Sorry about that! The displacement is pretty much negligible... around 0.1 ft^3 or so. You can pretty much ignore it Be sure to add a good 2 - 3 pounds of poly fill to the enclosure when running the 12" models sealed.
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If you are looking for louder you should look at something bigger than these -- while they sound great, raw output isn't tremendous... it's not bad, and is very impressive for 200 watts per sub, but it won't compete with the big boys on output.
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I am going to e-mail Rich and see if he can send me plans for the TL box for the 12s... they really shine in that box. They also do very well Infinite Baffle =) They will work fine in traditional sealed and ported alignments, but the 12" models really shine in a hybrid-TL or IB due to the moderately high Qts. I suggest 1.25 - 1.5 ft^3 sealed with heavy polyfill stuffing, around 2 - 3 pounds or so. I suggest 2.00 - 2.25 ft^3 ported tuned to 30 Hz or so, they will get extremely low in this alignment. What would be a *great* solution since you have four... would be to make a dual clamshell, low-tuned, ported home theater sub. You could use around 2 cubes total volume since the clamshell alignment cuts box size in half That would be pretty nasty in-home for movies tuned to about 25 hz or so. ---------- That is four entries to win the SAX-100.2 for you as well I am writing them all down and will have a computer generate a random number to draw the winner the first of next month!