sundownz

The 100.2 is more under-rated than the 100.4 -- so it does give a bit more juice to run 2 100.2s (both do over their ratings, but the 100.2 exceeds them by even more).

Excellent, thanks for the feedback Chad

are you going to work on anything bigger than the saz3000d ? woulld love to see somethin that puts out 5000-6000 watts That is a low priority due to the very small niche market that it serves, the 3000D is more power than any normal person needs day to day. I will eventually do a larger one, but perhaps not until 2009 or so.

Just got back from the show... Sundown took a 1st and a 2nd place today. Justin Davidson in No-Wall 24 - 48 inches: 4x 12" Konaki Subs 4x SAZ-1500Ds 3x Powermaster D3100s 1x Powermaster 200-amp alternator 150.5 dB * 1st place for the day in this class * We installed / built this whole system yesterday ---- Jacob Fuller (me) in Wall 1201 - 2400 amps: 4x SAZ-3000Ds 4x RE MT 18s 8x Powermaster D3100s 1x DEKA Intimidator 2x Powermaster 200-amp alternators 158.2 dB * 2nd place for the day in this class * I could have entered in 401 - 1200 but will be added 4 more amps so decided to start getting point for the 1201 - 2400 class now. Big Poppa (Jeff) beat me today with 162 dB

We glued the bottom landing on all four -- so we popped the top spider off all four instead *laughs* I glued them all back better now -- one broke at the triple joint on the bottom spider too, but I was able to fix that as well.

They will be ready in February Ray

Yes, you want it to match up with the crossover frequency for the tweeter crossover.

There will be an SAX-250.2 next year, but I don't have a solid ETA for you.

We figured it out and it's taken care of

My camera is broken... but maybe I can buy a new one before I go

I would prefer an HC2400 if you have only one battery.

Lots of power will be on tap no matter how you look at it Impedance rise will determine actual power output at a given frequency, as always.

Yes and yes. I added a couple more fins on the side, there is a gap there now so I filled it in (minor detail, I know). Then the case is 10mm taller with a bunch of fins UNDER the face of the amp to drastically increase cooling. That is the primary change. The face of the amp is exactly the same. And yah, I expect them mid January.

Just there to look around

Very cool indeed I wouldn't worry about the heat much on the Class-D models, but it might be a problem on the lil' SAX-100.2 as they do run a bit warmer than the rest.

Bumps!

For those that received their SD-1 v.2s already I am really anxious to hear your thoughts. I spent alot of time of this driver and I would love to hear what you think about them!

Dang, that is pretty cool!

I'm about to go double test your amp, as I do double test all the refurbs before shipping them.

Cool, looking forward to hearing how you like it

Yes, indeed, you would need to enable to 10x feature as well to achieve the desired results -- otherwise the frequency would only be in the 200 - 300 Hz area at 1/2 way.

Yes, absolutely. If the frequency was too low that would almost immediately blow a tweeter. For the Supremo I would use the HPF on CH 1+2 about 1/3 to 2/3 up, and the LPF on your midrange on CH 3+4 about 1/3 to 2/3 up to match what you set the tweeter to (perhaps start at 1/2 way up and move back and forth from there to find your sweet spot). For added protection on your tweeter, also turn the subsonic all the way up on CH 1+2 where the tweeter is connected to further filter the really low frequencies.

What crossover frequency did you use?

Wow, that is going to be sick We did ~143 dB with the 8" proto that I re-built by hand Seans CRX in a 4th order band-pass, by the way.

I know what you mean, I've used extremely short jumpers before I think that overall spring loaded are favored since you don't need tools to attach the wires. Once I've grown a bit I'd like to tool my own basket with all the terminals on one side, though, as that is a great method IMO.