sundownz

Maybe later

This batch is going to blow out of here pretty fast as well... it's getting hard to keep things in stock! Not to mention that the 100.4 model has doubled average sales on the "B" revision vs. the "A" revision (when I changed the crossovers).

Hehe, the interior does look better in person -- I thought it sucked when I saw the pics online before I looked at the car. The black is much darker and the design isn't as crazy looking. --- Aaron -- thats no automatic transmission my friend That is a DSG transmission! http://cars.about.com/od/thingsyouneedtokn...howDSGworks.htm --- loudcav, Yep, it's the 2.0T engine.

I'll probably use 2-4 SD-1 v.2s or 4-6 of the new 8s when they come in

SURRRRRRE: the old lady trade in story It looks almost like brand new -- and I have a warranty, so I'm good to go I won't own a European car without warranty anymore after my BMW 325i Power Steering incident. Love the cars... but damn, parts are expensive.

Hehe, if it was the high-end stuff it would be My runs are worth around 100 bucks... but I really didn't feel like un-routing those things and I still have around 150 feet of it left so I'm good!

Yep, they gave me exactly what I wanted Honda was indeed traded in -- some lucky dude is going to get four runs of Tara Labs speaker wire with his new Civic LX. I also bought an extended warranty to 100k miles -- it currently has 45k miles. It was a local trade-in from an Army guy that drove it to Fayetteville and back alot -- his wife made him get a bigger car for the kids, car had full maintenance history at the same dealer I got it from so that was a plus too. Car looks nearly new inside and out still. I'll get some pics shortly

And by "next week" I actually meant the week that we are currently in *laughs* So yes, should be soon.

Thursday is the last day.

The Q is a good choice from the FI line for what you want -- it'll get pretty loud sealed. How much more output than the 12w6v2 do you want?

With that many amps and processors you are probably over-loading the remote lead -- install a relay on the remote if you have not already.

Nice

With a load connected you are subject to the actual impedance -- what voltage are you getting? Can you clamp the AC current?

My ETA is sometime next week. If that is accurate you may or may not get them for that show depending on UPS transit times and what day of the week they come.

Do you have a load connected or not? Setting by voltage alone really isn't extremely accurate either due to the actual impedance varying quite a bit from the nominal. I generally set them by ear and back it off a hair once I hit audible distortion.

Like I said, that fuse was probably loose -- if not, perhaps it was a bad fuse. Replace the fuse and make sure everything works okay, if it does, you are good to go.

I have no way of telling what happened for certain -- but my guess is that fuse was loose. The fuses are in parallel, the amp will power on with only one fuse.

If the remote voltage went below the level to turn the amp on this could occur, or if supply voltage went below ~9 volts or so.

RemixPinoY, If you need any more help e-mail me at [email protected] -- you got it from Mark, if something is actually wrong with it you will have warranty. I'm going to close this thread.

Maybe, maybe not. It is mainly just the fancy high-end RCA cables.

People have 3000s in installs doing 150s and I've never had complaints about rattles, did you see if the bottom screws are tight? Is the amp bottom actually pressed against a surface, or no? Some RCA cables do not play well with the amps -- namely some nicer Stinger and Memphis cables, perhaps a few others, but those are the ones I know of. This can cause the amp to go into protection -- try a cheap RCA cable, like the red and white end ones from Radio Shack -- those always work. As for the electrical... yes, that is not ideal for the 3000D at all. I'd imagine that since your vehicle is a Toyota the alternator is pretty small as well as the battery. That could stand some upgrading... but I doubt that is why it is entering protection at 2 ohms unless the gain and/or bass boost are maxed out. The amps are absolutely stable at 1 ohm when setup and working properly. I run them in my SPL truck at 1/2 ohm and play it for extended periods of time -- but I do have two alternators and nine batteries in there. Takes power to make power

Wow, Nick is now old enough to be my grandfather!

1) Your installer is wrong. It sounds like he may not know what he is talking about. 2) The amp is rattling? How do you have it mounted? Sounds like it is loosely mounted as the bottom covers don't rattle easily by any means. Post some pics of your install if you can.

What RCA cables are you using? And yes, your electrical system is inadequate for any 3000 watt amplifier. It is not "power hungry" but it is a real 3000+ watt amplifier and requires substantially more current than a stock charging system can supply. Also, where did you get it? If you really do have a problem we should find out if you do have a warranty on it.