mrogowski

So Steve did a bit of cleanup with his deck and controls: The deck install looks much cleaner this way

Here's some shots of the DVD trim and screen: A shot with the screen in

Here's some shots and a little writeup from Dave on the amplifier canopy he built for this install: Canopy steel frame- 40 pounds of ceiling amps are bolted into welded nuts, attached to a 1 1/4 steel angle frame, that HANGS from the Factory Tethered seat belt bolt mounts at the front; spans to the rear of the cab where the 1.5" flat bar extends over the back of the 1.5 inch ply rear wall (thus- hanging again- for additional support. Mechanically - the amps can not fall). From the top of the canopy, the horizontal amps are mounted to a 1" sq steel tubing skeleton, which ties the top, amp pods and rear wall together - hanging from the top steel mounted frame as well as the shear support on the rear wall. This skeleton also mounts the DVD screens on each side. The 3/4" angle steel, center floating amp rack is bolted with 1/2" bolts, through the 3 layers of 3/4 ply (into T-nuts) AND supported underneath from the sub box structure. In the sub box build pics- you will see a 4x9" 'platform' in the center of the box - tying the 2 front and top speaker baffles together, anchored into the center divider of the sub box and fiberglassed from the top and underneath, making the entire structure, interdependent, from floor to ceiling. The back 1.5" ply wall is anchored into the back of the truck cab, at the factory seat belt mount locations, and the upper shoulder belts and bottom factory bench seat mount locations also. From this wall, the canopy is bolted with 8x1/2" bolts, and HUNG from the tethered seat belt locations. So the amps themselves don't rely on the wood structure for support, but rather the steel structure, attached to the factory belt mount locations - strongest points in the truck cab. The wood basically is cosmetic and used to attach the trims and fiberglass components. This design SHOULD be durable enough to withstand the vibrations from bass, off-road travel, stiff suspension speed bump jolts and MOST IMPORTANTLY - in the unfortunate event of a crash or rollover, everything will maintain its attachment to the truck cab. Can't have 40 pounds of amps over head and 40 pounds behind your head that become projectile missiles! This is the best way I could determine to anchor all the components for safety!!!! MUST be anchored into truck steel rather than wood. This is the MAJOR difference between why its taking months to build - rather than a shop, 'screwing' pieces together and sending you on your way! This MUST be structurally safe in case of a front end crash or other mishap!

Here's the work done on the door pods: This really sucks - you can see how the door moldings are not the same Work done on the rear of the pods The finished product

More shots of the sides - looks like the assembly of them:

Geez man, sell that Klingon of a shell to someone then. Let them resurrect it!

If it doesn't come from Mach 5 its just a cheap knock off - just like the Funky Pups you see on EBay

I sense a recone in the force...

A quick buff and you'll be back in action.

You are correct sir. I think the OP is referring to the volume used in a box however. Factor in about 0.12 cubes (if that is the case). Best, Mark

More work completed, this time to the sides of the sub box. Dave chose a nice copper pattern to mount some of the electronics on. As usual, the fit and finish is spectacular

Db Drag has been upgraded to 2x..

Wow, that tweeter digs pretty deep. The top end rolls off pretty quick off axis - is that 45* or 60*? Anyway, they MLI is pretty easy to build a xover for. I had good luck using a 6dB/octave with impedance compensation on the MLI and an 18dB/octave to a Seas tweeter. Had to use a trap but it sounded pretty darn smooth once it was done. Despite the low end frequency that tweeter can go to, I would lean towards ~1.8kHz xover point simply because the dome would have a difficult time dispersing frequencies lower than that without some major help. Your ear will of course tell the story though. Good luck! Mark

More pics of Steve's install: The lining of the black sealer is interesting:

Jono, I believe we achieved 136.x using a single IXL-10 with 1200 watts that was based on the suggested box size and tuning (quite high, but she slammed good). It was Puggsley's car we used so he can confirm it. hth, Mark Oh, and congrats on your domination of the contests

So Dave sent pictures of how he put the sub box together. Here are shots of his work in random order. Still can't get over the amount of labour involved here:

Or 4

Coil options will be made available in the future, but it is a ways off.

I have Funky Pup dust caps coming in - you can throw those on whichever driver you end up buying

Yes, it wouldn't surprise me if someone walked into Scott's shop with a wad of flow and said build me some subs and put my name on them. I know I would... Just another "brand" for an already saturated market...

Just an FYI, we will be hosting DB Drag here in Winnipeg on Sunday June 21. I registered it as a 1x but we anticipate upgrading it to 2x. http://www.dbdrag.com/temp/eventschedule.a...ionID=668082126 Here's hoping we see a few folks from all over.. Best, Mark

Points taken Chris. Hope you got enjoyment from it.

Yowza!