mrogowski

Denim used one sealed. He liked its output. Viperoni also did a pair sealed. Perhaps they can chime in...

She knows she's hot too. Man I hate that...

Wow. I'm glad I looked here. Girls wearing those men style pants kinda suck tho. Makes their ass look like they are certified plumbers...

Can I have your Orion 2500d then?

Good luck. I tried the same thing and got nowhere fast. The transistors they use have in-house numbers so there is no way to cross reference them. I hope you don't have an issue with those...

Come by Saturday and drag Dorian's sorry ass with you.

Ok, here are recommendations for securing your wireless router. This is based on industry best practices and other advanced organizations like SANS and CERT. Please note that applying all recommendations may or may not affect overall functionality, so weigh the risk accordingly before moving ahead with it. 1.) Obtain latest firmware upgrade for your router and upgrade the device. Nine times out of ten there is a new firmware revision for your unit. If your router does not support flash upgrades, throw it out and purchase one that does. 2.) Change the administrator password on the web console. You have no idea how many people do NOT do this. Chose a password of at least eight alpha-numeric characters. Include special characters as well. 3.) Change the SSID or 'workgroup' name of the router. All routers have a default name and if left unchanged, will be easy to identify. Do not change it to your address or something easy to identity - make the name unique so only you know it. 4.) Turn off SSID broadcasting. All routers love to broadcast themselves. No one needs to know your router is there but you. 5.) Enable encryption. Do NOT use WEP. If your router only supports WEP, throw it out and buy one that supports WPA, WPA2 or AES. 6.) Turn off DHCP and hard code your IP addresses into the systems that will be using the router. Do NOT use the default address space that the router comes configured with. This is usually 192.168.0.x or 192.168.1.x. You can use any of three non-routable IP address spaces - 10.x.x.x; 172.x.x.x or 192.168.x.x. I usually use 192.168.125.x or something higher in the subnet range. 7.) Enable MAC (media access control) address restrictions. In Windows, open a command prompt (cmd) and type in IPCONFIG /all. Record the 12 character number of the network card and input it into your router. Do this for all systems that will be connecting to the router. 8.) Many wireless routers function much like a firewall. By default, true firewalls operate on a "deny all with exceptions" rule set. If you know what it is you will be using your computers for, apply the 'deny all outbound' rule and set up exceptions for your connecting systems. A good example of this would be allowing only HTTP, FTP, SSH and perhaps a custom game. By doing this you are minimizing the threat of unsolicited outbound communication that may result in "data leakage" (if you pick up a Trojan that wishes to communicate with an outside host for example). This can be a daunting task, and may result in many adjustments, but in the long run it can be worth the hassle. 9.) If you have one or more systems hosting an Internet service (maybe a game server or web server), set up a "DMZ" within your router and place that system in the DMZ. The router will create a logical 'deny all' zone between your server and your other computers so in the event where your server becomes compromised, the attacker would not be able to access your other computers. He/she is limited to only that system in the DMZ. 10.) Make sure you set the time in the router and synchronize it with a time server on the Internet. There are many public time servers you can connect to - just do a Google search. Why am I recommending this? Because you will then enable logging on your router, and set it up to log hacking attempts and other potentially malicious (or unsanctioned) communication. Then, periodically review these logs to see what, if anything is occurring. If you detect something strange on your network, having these logs is a good tool to figure out what is going on. 11.) If your router has the capability of being remotely administered (eg from the Internet), turn that function OFF! There is really no reason why you would require to administer your router from outside your home. Well, that's about it. Hope this helps people. Best, Mark

Yeah, surprise. Forgot to let you know...

Ok, Puggsley will be testing out a prototype for me in the coming days. Then we'll decide what can/should be done. I'm building the test box right now and he should get it next weekend. Best, Mark

Hi Guys, Shizzon covered a fair bit already and for the most part, sums up what the majority of folks can do to lock things down. There are a couple of more things that can be added (and will once I get into work and look through my notes). Bottom line is to apply best practices when and where you can without going overboard and sacrificing functionality. One thing I always say - there's security and then there's paranoia. Neil hit it with WEP tho. Its old technology and weak from the get-go and it shouldn't be used. I'll throw up some info tomorrow if I have time to do so. Best, Mark

Sean, shoot me an email and I can give you all sorts of info on securing wireless. It is my profession after all.. Best, Mark

Keep those pics coming!

Why don't you start with the 12 and see how you like that. I am entertaining getting 15" soft parts. You could use the same motor - just swap out the basket/cone.

ignore...

Yup, give you another year and you'll be listening to Larry Updike on CJOB AM

Ah, Ok, that makes more sense.

Hmmm... Would you like mustard with that?

Because that 9.3^3ft is before the port and woofers. Internal volume will go down considerably after he adds those two things. Use WinISD to configure your boxes. It takes port area into consideration. That leaves the drivers, which is minimal to non-existent. Best, Mark

Yup, and even to cut back an inch or two to make sure your box will fit, you will end up with ~8.8 cubes - should be enough. If you're after more SPL tune the box to 35Hz. Internal dimensions should be 40" x 20" x 19". Make your port 5.5" x 99sq inches and 17" long. It obviously won't fit in the front, but I'm sure you can work the dimensions around so you can fit the port in.

Get yourself a BASH 500 watt amp and call it a day: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=300-752 Should be enough to get the IXL moving. For your parties you would be more after the mid-bass than the ultra lows, so consider building small(er) and tuning at 32-35Hz. Best, Mark

It sounds to me that you have around 8 cubes to work with - correct me if I'm wrong here. If you have that much space, consider doing two MJ's in a ported config. That will give you the clean extension you want with some decent volume. Best, Mark

Do it!

Here's something to try Mike: Throw the Atlas' behind your couch and reverse the polarities. Fire up some nice bass-heavy music and light some incense (or a smoke). Then watch the air move between you.

Beauty...

Wow! I love that build Mike! That must have taken you a fair bit of time to get done. I think I will post a link to other forums and tell them to come here to check this out. Thanks for sharing.