sgreer5

My 1/0 gauge just came in and I was wanting to get started on my Big 3 upgrade. Just wanted to run it by you guys real quick to make sure I had everything correct. First off I read not to just crimp these wires but to solder them as well because it makes a much better connection. (Any tips on soldering? This will be my first time.) I watched a few videos on youtube and it seemed fairly easy but any tips will help. But I am going to run 0 gauge from the neg. of my battery to the chassis of my car. Then from the positive of my battery to the alt. I seen a few people put fuses in between this run.. Is that necessary to fuse between pos. of batt and alt? Then finally run 0 gauge from my engine ground to the chassis. Another question I had was do I leave the existing factory wires too? Or remove them? ANY advice with anything helps! Thanks

What size fuse would you guys recomend?

Yeah your the pro man. I was either going to sub up and port back or both back. So thats fine

hey guys i need some help for my new setup in my 2000 Celica here is what i got 80amp alt Fi Q w/cooling saz1500 zx350.4 Im waiting on my 1/0 awg to come in so i can upgrade the big 3 but what else would you guys recomend? Second battery? H/O alt. I dont have a ton of money so keep that in mind..

Ok well I will look into that I found a 165 amp alt. Need bigger?

I have not really looked but I looked and the biggest i could find for my car was a 145 amp and it was over $250

Ok so how easy are these alternators to install? Pretty simple??

I have a 2000 Celica

How big of a battery do i need if I am just going to replace the one iv got and run everything off of my new one?

Ok so any suggestions from anyone on a new starting batteries? Any experience with? One that doesnt cost an arm and a leg..

So your saying instead of putting anothr one in the trunk, just upgrading the one under the hood? Sounds like something that i could do. im a little skeptical about running all those extra wires to the back of my trunk for putting in a second batt so keeping it simple sounds much better. any more ideas guys?

Its in a 2000 Toyota Celica.

A SAZ-1500D would work too. Can be found under 300$. Where can I find a SAZ-1500D under 300? Iv been looking for one and its hard to find Sundown dealers.

I dont want to spend much more than 300 for an amp. And Im a firm believer in running AT LEAST rms to the sub. That way I dont put any stress on any equipment. And I dont have to buy the cooling upgrade I just thought it would help the sub run better. And my goal is SQ. I know the Q can get loud but I have also heard many talk of its superb SQ. Those two things have nothing in common either. The biggest improvement you'll have in the SQ domain is to spend a ton more time with your front stage. Ok sorry. Here is what i meant. I want my sub to be very clear and have a great range.

Im getting a 12" FI Q with the cooling package. It will be put into a 2.5 cu ft. box tuned to 31-33hz (cant deside yet). But I really want to know a good amp to power it with that will not kill my wallet or my electrical in my car. Iv got stock alt and bat with a big 3 upgrade and a 5 farad cap. Also I DO NOT plan on running at 1 ohm b/c i want good SQ. Any input is greatly appreciated! Thanks

Iv narrowed it down to several. If I run at 1 ohm: Sundown Audio SAZ-1000d, Hifonics BRZ 1200.1, MTX JH-1200, Soundstream DTR1.1400D or if I run 2 ohms: Hifonics BRZ 1700.1, Rockford Fosgate r1000.1, Alpine MPR-1000, Plannet Audio BB2400.1, Soundstream DTR1.1700D ANY input on these would be great

I dont want to spend much more than 300 for an amp. And Im a firm believer in running AT LEAST rms to the sub. That way I dont put any stress on any equipment. And I dont have to buy the cooling upgrade I just thought it would help the sub run better. And my goal is SQ. I know the Q can get loud but I have also heard many talk of its superb SQ. Those two underlined above are not really connected. You can easily run less power and put less strain, both electrically and mechanically on your equipment (pending you are not clipping the signal). There is no law that says you must run RMS to the sub, headroom can be a good thing, but not required. The cooling option was essentially meant for those pushing the thermal limits of the sub woofer, it performs perfectly well without it if it is not really needed. Ok well any suggestions for an amp in the 1krms range? And thanks then i might save myself 30 buck without buying that cooling option (: i thought it would be crazy not to but now im starting to see that if im just going to run around 1k rms then i dont need it.

I dont want to spend much more than 300 for an amp. And Im a firm believer in running AT LEAST rms to the sub. That way I dont put any stress on any equipment. And I dont have to buy the cooling upgrade I just thought it would help the sub run better. And my goal is SQ. I know the Q can get loud but I have also heard many talk of its superb SQ.

ok thanks. I just was scared of trying it out since i didnt really know what I was doing. But what do you guys normally glue the boxes with. From what i've seen it looks like most people use some type of wood glue, then seal the edges with caulk. And ive also heard its a good idea to round the corners of the port on the inside of the box. How do you do this?

Also I went out and measured and my max demensions are 42" wide, 15" tall, and 23" deep. I'm not sure if this makes a difference but I would like my woofer facing up unless that causes some sort of problem. Thanks

x2 You can have a sound quality based ported setup. But generally that is correct. Sealed is said to give more accurate or "punchy" bass while ported will be a lot louder in most cases. My opinion for you is to get a 12" Q with the Extra spider and cooling options, port it in say a 2.5ft^3 and tuned at 30-32hz. With the Q you can put it in both sealed and ported boxes so you can throw it in a ported box then builed a sealed box and see which one you like better. When you say "With the Q you can put it in both sealed and ported boxes so you can throw it in a ported box then builed a sealed box and see which one you like better" how should I order my Q if I want to test out some enclosures? The Q has so many options that are specifically designed for certain elclosures. I want to go ported on mine but because I cant seem to find the right ported enclosure without it costing over 200+ just for a box, im running out of ideas.

Hey guys im new to this site so im not sure if im doing this right haha. But anyways, my problem: I currently have 2 Kicker CVR 10's in a prefab ported box running off a 500rms monoblock MTX amp. Im selling this setup to a freind of mine and getting something alot nicer. I am leaning extremely hard towards getting a FI Q 12 built with a cooling system, QTS, and the extra spider installed. I plan on buying a Rockford Fosgate r1000-1d to power the Q. I want to go sealed because I really want this new system to be towards sound quality. I was thinking of a 1.0 cu sealed box or something around that area. I do not have a ton of extra money laying around so before I go spending 700+ on a new system I wanted to know if you guys had any suggestions about my setup. Does my FI Q sound like I built it correctly for SQ? Is that box choice wise? Anybody have experience with the RF 1000-1d? Thanks so much!

I understand that, I was referring to the higher bass notes. For instance, my CVRs currently hit pretty deep and are fairlly loud. However the highs are lacking a bit. For my Q, I just wanted to know if using a sealed enclosure would solve this problem? And to those who say I can use ported, what would my port be tuned to and box volume be to maximize range.

Im not quite sure this is an intelligent answer but when I say sound quality i mean i want my woofer to have an amazing range from highs to lows. From my reasearch it is my understanding that the Q can handle the lows great but my question is about can it handle the higher range as well? And Scott, i have seen that polyfill and I will check into that before I install. Thanks guys