ArrizX

I have a RF 1000-1BD, and I would like to buy an MJ 18, but my amp will do like 550 @ 4. 900 ish @ 2 and 1300 @ 1. So I need a dual two or dual four. No possibility? No, getting it and reconeing and using different coils is not an options.

I know that Sound Splinter is going to have the better woofer, but its still $200 dollars. Although I really only have room for 8's. Possibly a sealed ten, but I want to port for maximum output. So that leaves the fabled question... Because I can get Polk Momos wholesale for like 44 dollars each, and if that would be the better choice... more cone area and cheaper to get louder I would do it. Although, I have always wanted to try an rl-i so I thought I would discuss it. Reason being is this (these) are going behind the rear seat of the jeep wrangler soft top. I need to have the box small and unseen under the little deck in the back. Let me know what you think. Because these are 8s I want pure spl because I am used to my TC-7s and I absolutely loved them off of 1300 watts. And I geared that towards sq as much as possible with it still ported. So smaller subs with less wattage I need as much spl as I can get. Not to mention I am in a noisy soft top jeep. Thanks for your input. I will probably power off a power acoustic just because I can also get those wholesale. That, or I will get a cheap amp like hifonics or crunch. I cant invest a ton just in case I do get ripped off. Wouldnt be that hard with this vehicle. I will hide everything as best as possible but I can only do so much.

And unavailable for the foreseeable future. That paragraph contradicts itself. You state that the goal is "pure SPL" but you also state that you want SQ. The two are not the same. Which is it?2 10s ported should give you the output that you want and the box only needs to be 11" high. Pick up a pair of CVRs or Comps and tune them failry high (for both more output and a smaller port and smaller box). They'll not sound very good but they'll be fairly loud. If you want SQ that can get fairly loud, you need cone area, and it sounds like you don't have the room for that. I am trying to explain that I had to TC7s on 1300wrms ported. But tuned low to keep as much as the sq as I could. So I guess it as LSQ. I'm saying how I am used to that, and how loud it was and I will need pure spl subs to get as close as possible to that in the jeep with the room I have. I want SPL because I need to get loud in limited space. I will get dimentions but I dont know if I can fit two 10s. I'm not even sure about one 10. I think I could sqeez that. I could get momos (best sub in the wholesale catalog I am looking at) and I also found an 06L5 for cheap just over 100 dollars for a 10. I thought that was a good deal. I would consider that if I could fit it lol. So I guess general consensus is get a 10 if possible... Gotcha. Would a 10 momo be louder then a 10 tc 7? both ported and getting rms.

Well, currently, I have two 10'' TC-7s. I'm looking to upgrade next summer, and I wanted to do four 8's, but I really wanted to try icon, which would force me to a 10''. Just curious is if there is anything floating around for an 8'' to be made.

Hey, I have a set of TC-7 woofers. Right now the box its in is 40x12x12 with independent chambers. Aero port out each chamber to the side 3'' in diameter and 13'' long. Its to long for what I need it now. So I was thinking making it 36x14x14. That way it would be short enough and then I could have the ports fire forwards too. Sound good? But I know these were designed for large sealed apps. however i cant find specs for that. Could someone just give me some dimentions to make a box? I dont need 3d plans and all that. Just something l x w x h because I dont know how much airspace for sealed. Thanks

US Amps XT-1600.2 I was looking at that amp on here, and thinking about maybe getting it. It looks good to push my 7515. Or should I consider something else? I'm just begining to start shopping.

so what size would you reccomend? 5^3 even or a little more? maybe 5.2^3?

So you think the boxed I said for ported would work better sealed? And 5cf per subs????? these are only 10s!! Jeeze that seems like a big much

I need to run a mtx 7514-04. what would be the cheapest thing possible? Well i dont even need to give it full power. all i need to do is make it bump good. but i don't know what kind of watttage it would need to make it sound good (givin that is an vague word anyways). just the cheapest way to run it i guess, thank you.

Well, First, I was either looking at two of these MLI-65 http://www.mach5audio.com/product_info.php...37171c76d02db5d OR MTX T4508-04 http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/Pr...ProductID=13307 OR Kicker 07C8-4 http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/Pr...ProductID=17406 But here is the thing, I'm not sure how I would power these. Also, how would I give it an audio signal. Then, as for speakers, and power for them and a signal to them, I'm at a complete loss. I would like to keep this as cheap as possible. Help, lol

Some of those amps are just to vintage for me, lol see, I want something like this http://www.6ave.com/shop/product.aspx?sku=ELND660 but for like 1/10th the price. because im going to need at least 5 channels. one for sub, two for the speakers, and two for the mids now with further research i dont think i will be able to find what i want for the price i want, can someone point me in the direction of more modern stuff for cheap?

Just for music. right now i'm using an OLD OLD OLD harmon/kardon 2.1 system, and its not near loud enough, or anywhere near the bass I want. Thanks alot, I'm going to research all this. I appreciate the help

Good points. I'm not really very knowledgeable of the mechanical parts, but cant you screw off the motor? Because if that is the case, you could make it work. And... would be be impossible to special order 8s? Just out of sheer curiosity.

im not completely sure. i want to keep it reasonable. sub 300. but 400@4, but also 1000+ at @1.

yeah, i have been trying to scout ebay.

The car - 2002 Honda civic si The setup Alpine 9856 deck JbL cs60.4 speaker amp alpine type r comps in front, and coax in back two 10'' tc7 subs in a ported box powered @1 by a rockford fosgate 1000-1bd amp Gets stupid loud in that car, its so small! Anyways, im going to a large sealed box soon.

Well, I currently have two TC-7's being pushed by a RF 1000-1db. They are in a ported box, which I don't know the tuning of, but each chamber (to rec. specs) has a 13'' long 3'' wide precision port. I am thinking about getting a single Fi, so I can retain loudness, but gain quality. But then again, do you think I would be best off sealing my subs? I listen to mainly rap, but I want more quality then I currently have. I drive a 2002 honda civic si hatchback, so it is a TINY car, and gets loud easy.

SIG WORTHY!

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/Pr...owAll=True& I need some tweeters that fit the same as the 07 type r comp tweeters, because I custom fit my door pod for them, and then one blew. My dad is buying some 6x9's off this site, so I want to order mine with his to save on shipping!

i really don't want to pay that much. whats the best under say... 40?

I have the CS60.4 and I am buying the sundown Friday. My car is only 70 amps with its alternator.. Can it fully support both of those amps?

Well on my ephatch.com forum someone said this.. and he knows his stuff Yellow-top for deep cycling and car-off use Red-top- for big instantaneous current and fast, turning over large high compression engines, etc. Don't like to be deep cycled. It's a toss-up for car audio, if you like to sit and jam with the car off then the answer is un-disputably the yellow-top. For daily use I recommend the red-top due to it's uber low internal resistance, HUGE peak current capacity, etc. so i was thinking the red top would do fine for what i need.

First, what is the different between the Original, and the Extreme Dynamat? Because, I am thinking of just getting two packs of the Original Speaker Kits. A set for up front, and a set in the back. I didnt think I would need to shell out for extreme. Should work all in the same manor right? I'm only going to put in the new '07 Type R comps and coax's. http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/Pr...ProductID=12644 And also, my car is a 2002 Honda civic SI. I believe it has a 70 amp alternator. My sub amp will be pulling 1300wrms and speaker amp doing 60 wrms a channel. So, will I need a capacitor? If so, how many farads? What brand is good? Because I also have after market fog lights on it.

You should look into a deep cycle battery instead of a starting battery. A lot of users here swear by Kinetik batteries. http://www.kinetikaudio.com/hc1400.asp You also need to complete the Big 3 upgrade http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...p?showtopic=200 I would run at least 1/0awg to a distro in the rear of your car and then split it to 4awg to each amp. I cant shell out that much for a battery. As for the big 3, I honestly dont think I could do it correctly lol.

The only thing I was thinking was.... http://www.lowcostbatteries.com/product_p/34r.htm