wannabang

Got a couple things in the mail, today! My ring terminals came in today, but no picture of those... They're a minor detail. The main battery came in! XS Power D3400! I was also super stoked when I opened a package to this: Retro-Solution 35 watt 5000K HIDs! I'm geeked to get these in the Edge! Update on tint: The only shops with 20% quoted me at $90 for the front two windows, and one said I couldn't get in until the 31st. Kinda late since I start school before then. Haven't talked to the other place about an appointment, but I will. If nothing works, I may end up going 35%....

LoL. I know. Good advice. Thanks, and it's got 52 sq.in. of port. I hope to get a hold of someone with a truck so I don't have to cut the board up at Home Depot... God knows they can't cut. If I do, this will definitely be started Thursday!

Earlier today, this came in the mail: Biggest fuse housing I've ever seen. I have no clue where I'm going to put it.... LoL

I got mine with 69K for $19k flat including tax/title/fees. My current box is tuned to 27 and I like it. Occasionally I'll listen to dubstep and those real low, artificial drops I want to be more present than they were previously, so while I was flirting with the length of the port, it ends up being 29.79 hz. I'm not too concerned with a couple decibels, so I didn't care too much, just wanted to get a higher "port area/foot" number and this way it's 12.5 instead of 12.04 (I'm probably flirting with miniscule difference, though). The big three will come in time, and I definitely intend to go darker on the back eventually.

The other day I got another package. Found it leaning against the garage door? Before this, I had only held four gauge wire, so this was thicker and heavier than I expected. It's 25' of KNU KCA, because I'm trying to be a little frugal. I ordered HIDs this morning, and I think will just be tinting the front windows to match the back, also a money saving move. I'll be getting the car tinted with the next paycheck and start building the floor hopefully on Thursday. I'll be hiking all day Tuesday and at a company picnic all day Wednesday. Looking forward to finally getting to what everyone wants to see!

Completed box design: The small rectangle cutout is where I will fit the battery and the amp will attach to the back of the box with the wires run under the floor. The two smaller, elongated boxes under the floor (piece with handle) will be the support for the box with one 1 piece going across the whole back. The spare tire will stay as it is and the tools to remove the box (which will be a separate piece from the floor) and jumper cables will be stored in the right under-box. Even though it is not pictured as such, the floor will only be 1, 1/2 inch of plywood, and carpeted, as well as cut into three pieces in front of the box in order to lift up the individual lids. It's 4.16 cu.ft. with 52 sq.in. of port for a tuning of ~29 hz. The port is a "Z" shape with 45s at all the bends. Kerfing and a window would have been sexy, but I don't feel like I'll have the time to do them if I still need time for school preparation, the girl, and work.... not to mention the times I'll be unable to work after my wisdom teeth are removed.

Sexy 10"! I just ordered a 15" Icon, and after seeing this, I'm even more pumped! Looks like it gets low and loud. That surround and excursion...

Just ordered my Icon 15 D1, 25 feet of Knu KCA 1/0, and some ring terminals. While the sub's being built, I want to get the tint done and start planning/building the box. LEDs and HIDs are also in the back of my mind.

Thanks! Now, I'll break as I wait to get my new tags. My temp tags expired today and I'm waiting to get them until I'm up that direction Tuesday since it's 45 minutes. Also, I'll try to square away the battery and sub and get those ordered ASAP!

Tonight I got the mic to be stealth. Rundown: So I noticed that the A-pillar would be a tad challenging, or just time consuming, to get behind: The pillar is under that panel of the dash.... which is... under this panel... and that panel is under the door sill panel... so I came up with a new plan that I completed in 15 minutes. The wire is zip-tied to the wad of yellow wires off to the left. Then I found this little nifty panel hiding the fuse box. And that's where I decided to stash all the extra wire. And there it sits. Just attached with the double-sided tape that came with it. Seems pretty decent to me.

I may try to tackle the mic location tomorrow after work, or tonight after a workout. One layer it is, but I feel like 35%'s too light and 15%'s too dark. Then again, 50% on top of the 20% factory tint is 10%, right? hmmmm... I also gotta remember that the Edge will just be sitting on a campus most of the time, so I need some kind of way to keep that HU invisible. Also, cops around there seem to not like tint too much... (Legal here is anything on back, 50% on front, and not even a brow on the windshield... although idk anyone that's been pulled over for it. We have a medical exemption.. LoL) As far as the install goes, before I order the sub, I wanna get the battery/alternator thing squared away. I can get a custom 250 amp alt for ~$500, or get two batteries for a little less. I'm thinking about using the Yellow Top from the other car as the starting battery and a XS D3400 as the secondary. I'll just get something basic for the other car since its system isn't too demanding. That will save me about $150. Good call or no?

Thank ya, and you spy right! I love the splitters, although, the screw that holds the two pieces together comes loose really easy. My original plan was twenty, but the shop I'm going to has 50, 35, 15, and 5, and I definitely want the back to be a tad darker and have some UV protection, hence the 50 on top. If I did 20, I'd have to hit up another shop. The price difference of the shops is $225:$185 and both use the same tint and have the same warranty. Grrrr. Maybe two layers of 50? or 35 and 50? Are there any downsides to doing two layers?

I spent awhile trying to understand some online directions. Gah, and eventually I just went for it. Four hours of connecting wires and trouble shooting and here's what I get: ..yeah the photos are garbage... and this floor is covered in garbage... Any suggestions on where to place the hands-free mic? Oh, and that's my buddy. He supplied the extra pair of hands I needed. We didn't get any pics of the wires... too stressed to even think about pictures, and he was too pumped to take pics of his speakers, but they were a definite improvement over his stockers.

KnuKonceptz Karma SS RCAs came in!!!! Gaining pieces slowly. Remote wire's from ebay.... hope it's here soon. Lookin' real nice. I'll probably throw up a few picture's of my friend's budget install when we do it tomorrow: His plans: Subwoofer: Unknown subs in QLogic box $50. They're pretty rough. I couldn't even get them out of the box with the stripped screws and grille, so I'm not even sure if they're wired. Maybe you'll get two box builds in this thread... Front speakers: Kenwood KFC-C6894PS HU: JVC KD-X50BT Amp: Crunch P1-2000.1 Wires: KnuKonceptz 4 gauge amp kit. Mi padre is wondering when I'll be building the box. Whenever I decide to drop the cash on 2 batts, wire, and the Icon. LOL ...I get my wisdom teeth removed on the 13th, maybe I should finish before then...

Gracias, sir! I have no doubt about that, but the funds and time don't allow for any additional plans, other than maybe swapping out that stock subwoofer for a midbass driver. ...does it make me obsessed to have not driven it in the rain, yet? Nor do I drive it to my McDonald's job. Can't have it smelling like fries and grease! That depends if you walk in the rain or to work everyday. hahaha no, I have the Nissan Maxima I was given when I turned 16. I think you can see the system in it in the thread I made when I first joined the site. I bought this one for school since I have a younger brother that will need a car. I drive that when the weather's bad and to work.

Gracias, sir! I have no doubt about that, but the funds and time don't allow for any additional plans, other than maybe swapping out that stock subwoofer for a midbass driver. ...does it make me obsessed to have not driven it in the rain, yet? Nor do I drive it to my McDonald's job. Can't have it smelling like fries and grease!

If there is, I'm definitely interested! Wish I would have seen this when the GB started...

and it's my understanding that an extra battery won't solve the issue of not enough current. right? /threadjack Sorry, OP

Along a similar line to the OP's question, I've been told in order to use my Cadence ZRS-7500d that I would need at least a 200 amp alternator to safely power my system and the rest of my cars lights and whatnot. Here was the explanation. The Cadence has a 150 amp fuse, so with this math: 150 fuseamps / 1800 watts@1ohm = .083, or 8.3 amps per 100 watts, so 149.4 amps necessary. My current car's alternator is only 150 amps, so, to my knowledge, I need a bigger alternator. Is this correct? My apologies for the thread-jack.

My math teacher was inspired by Westerville South's math music videos, and decided to make it an academic class project. Him, a buddy, and I spent around 20 hours just lining up the music and video, putting in transitions, and piecing it all together. The times where the vocals don't match the lips are the fault of the transitions, but we were tired of working on it lol. It was definitely fun. btw, the teacher's the guy in the fedora. Same year, different song: First attempt:

Seems like a fun time, regardless of whether or not they got name of the dance right, and it's also cool that you supported/encouraged such reckless youthful behavior lol. I'll definitely share this!

No clouds for me! It was awesome! Also got a pretty good view of the big dipper.. I think. lol

Gracias, amigos. This is one thing I love about this site: y'all are helpful and extremely knowledgeable without raggin' on a guy. It's nice to learn, and yes, I did notice the SPL difference. M5, I will definitely take that tip in future plots.

I compared a Gcon 15 and an SA15 and found something that sparked a couple questions for me: 1. Is there any simple reason why the Gcon requires a 1.5 ft^3 bigger than the SA15 to achieve the same curve and... 2. Why is it that the Gcon's curve is not a smooth curve in the same box? I know they're different drivers and will perform differently in different conditions, but more in depth, or rather, the science behind it. Could I just not know how to use the program? lol

Thank you for the enlightening response, good sir.